narrow strip of land known as Mavis Grind – a strip just wide enough to take the main A970 north.
On the west side you gaze around points and islands into the North Atlantic, while to the east you are looking at the Sullom Voe inlet of the North Sea. Heading into North Mavine the main road crosses rough moorland then splits on Hill of Orbister. The road to the west leads onto the fine Esha Ness peninsula, with its superb coastal scenery – huge, plunging cliffs falling into spectacular tidal voes (small bays or narrow creeks). This walk takes you around this exciting, windswept headland.
A walk that is suitable for all who enjoy wild coastal scenery. Route-finding is very easy, and there is not too much climbing, although picking your way around the thousands of inlets and headlands can be tiring. There is a path along parts of the route, particularly the main headland of Esha Ness, but the going throughout is easy, on short-cropped, flower-filled grass.
The route begins at Urafirth, preferably after a good night’s sleep and hearty breakfast at Almara Guest House in Upper Urafirth. Heading south along the main road you soon find yourself in Hillswick, where you leave the road and take to the rocky shore leading around the Ness. From here on it’s simply a case of keeping the sea to your left and the land to your right as you head off around the countless bays and jutting peninsulas to reach your overnight stay at Hamnavoe. On Day 2 the route continues in a similar vein, leading onwards around the coast into Ronas Voe and its fjord-like waters. A short walk along a little lane takes you back to Urafirth and the end of a fine expedition.
Tourist Information
There is an excellent tourist information centre at the Market Cross in Lerwick, tel 01595 693434, website www.visitshetland.com.
Transport
You can get to Lerwick, the capital of the Shetland Islands, by either air or ferry.
Air Contact British Airways and their franchise partners Logan Air on 0845 7733377. Their flights make use of the main airport on Shetland at Sumburgh, 40km (25 miles) south of Lerwick, website www.loganair.co.uk.
Ferry North Link Ferries operate ferries to Lerwick from Aberdeen or Stromness (Orkney), tel 0845 6000 449, website www.northlinkferries.co.uk.
Getting Around
Buses A daily (Mon–Sat) bus service to Hillswick from Lerwick stops at Urafirth. It leaves at 17.10 and arrives at 18.25 – contact White Coaches on 01595 809443.
Car Hire Try either Bolts Car Hire on 01595 693636, or Star Rent-a-Car on 01595 692075. Both have offices in Lerwick and at Sumburgh Airport.
Accommodation and Supplies
Lerwick For accommodation in Lerwick try the Glen Orchy Guest House on 01595 692031, website www.guesthouselerwick.com, or the Alder Lodge Guest House on 01595 695705. The youth hostel is a cheaper option, and you can contact them direct on 01595 692114 (open April to September). There are plenty of shops, bars and restaurants in Lerwick.
Heading North A very comfortable hotel on the road to North Mavine is the Busta House Hotel – Joe and Veronica Rocks are very welcoming, the food is excellent, and it is also a good option for some local Valhalla Brewery beer! Busta House is at Busta, near Brae, and you can make a reservation on 01806 522506, or e-mail [email protected] (website www.bustahouse.com).
North Mavine In North Mavine I would always opt for a night at Almara Guest House in Upper Urafirth – very comfortable rooms and huge breakfasts. Contact Marcia Williamson at Almara on 01595 503261, or e-mail [email protected] (website www.users.zetnet.co.uk/almara). There is also a bar selling food in Hillswick, and a small shop.
Overnight Options
Either camp discreetly, or try Johnnie Notions’ Camping Böd at Hamnavoe, open from April until September and bookable through Lerwick tourist information centre, or contact 01595 694688, www.camping-bods.com.
Escape Routes
At any point during the walk the quickest return route to Hillswick and Urafirth is to head for the B9078, which runs along the Esha Ness peninsula from near Hillswick to the tip of the headland.
Day 1
From the lay-by beneath Urafirth village walk southwestwards along the road towards Hillswick village. Pass the B9078, which heads off to your right – this is the road leading out to the lighthouse at Esha Ness, and is worth remembering as a possible escape route. Continue into Hillswick and pass the St Magnus Hotel on your right, then take a little lane on the left that leads down to the shoreline. Follow this around to the west and along a track to Findlins House, from where you can go down onto the shore and pick a way between the rocky platforms and sandy bays.
This is a great place to see otters. They prefer to come out hunting on a rising tide, and so are not necessarily nocturnal, as many people believe. We only have one species of otter in Britain, the Eurasian otter, Lutra lutra. On the rivers of England and Wales it is pretty much completely nocturnal, but by the coast in Scotland can be seen at any time of day.
Continue around the little headland of Tur Ness, which juts into Ura Firth, then on into the bay known as the Bight of Niddister.
Watch for fulmars as you walk along towards Baa Taing. These graceful birds are a joy to watch as they skim close to the waves out at sea. They look not unlike seagulls, but are in fact members of the shearwater family. They fly with very stiff wings, whereas gulls are much more flappy.
Continue around the Quilse and into Queen Geos, then on to the lighthouse at Baa Taing, the headland of the Ness of Hillswick.
From Baa Taing turn northwestwards and go along the coast, passing the finger-like pinnacle of Gordi Stack and Windy Geo, before climbing to the 70m cliff top of Oris Field. Out to sea across Houlma Sound you can see the famous rock pinnacles of the Isle of Westerhouse and the Drongs. Continue around the cliff top to the summit of Ber Dale, then onwards and downhill to the Quey and the lovely bay of Sand Wick.
The island of Dore Holm, with its huge natural arch
Follow the coast round, climbing again until you are high above the bay, then drop down to cross Twart Burn where it enters the sea. A short hop around rough ground below the B9078 and you are soon heading southwest again, towards the Grey Face and Harry’s Pund. Another short climb up to the Heads of Grocken, then a traverse around under Watch Hill to Stoura Pund and the Neap, bring you out above the big bay of Brae Wick. Walking out along the cliff top of the Neap you soon descend to cross a couple of small streams, then head out towards the distant headland of No Ness above the rocky flats of Scarf Skerry. Just around the bay from here lies the hamlet of Tangwick, with a superb museum that is well worth a visit.
Tangwick Haa Museum has a fascinating display of local artefacts and photographs, part of which is changed every year. All aspects of life in this remote part of Shetland are depicted here.
