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The Sierra de Alhama close to Nerja (Costa Tropical, Walk 29)
INTRODUCTION
Approaching Puerto de Málaga (Costa del Sol, Walk 23)
Talk to most people about the coast of Andalucía and they’ll picture the small swathe of seaboard that runs from Torremolinos to Estepona, the heartland of what is commonly sold as the Costa del Sol. First associations are of crowded beaches, busy coastal roads and blocks of holiday apartments. Few will conjure up visions of the mighty chain of mountains, the tail end of the Sierra Subbética, which rises up a few kilometres back from the sea. Nor do they tend to evoke the wilder beaches of the Costa de la Luz or the footpaths that run just a few metres from the Atlantic surf.
Since Iberian times these coastal paths have seen the passage of livestock, charcoal, fruit and vegetables, dried fish, ice from the high sierras, silks and spices from distant lands, contraband coffee and tobacco along with muleteers and shepherds, itinerant workers, fortune seekers and armies on the march. Ancient byways have a logic of their own and when researching this book I was constantly struck by a sense of Times Past, and not only when a section of ancient paving or cobbled path suggested Roman or Arabic origins. This sense of history, and of continuity, gives nearly all the walks described in this book an added appeal. It’s as if these ancient byways serve to reconnect us with something that has been around since time immemorial but which we rarely get the chance to experience.
If the areas described in the book share a common historical thread the different parts of the Costa have their own unique character. The cliffs, pine forests and marshlands close to Vejer are very different in feel to the wooded slopes of the Algeciras hinterland with its unique canuto (gorge) ecosystem. The lunaresque landscapes of the Sierra Bermeja stand in marked contrast to the forested mountainsides behind Marbella and Mijas, while the cliffs and crumpled massif of the sierras between Nerja and Almuñecar have a beauty all of their own, as do the mineral landscapes of Cabo de Gata. Each region is described in greater detail in its corresponding section but – rest assured – there’s superb walking in every one of them.
There are many terms to describe a protected area in Andalucía: Unesco Biosphere Reserve, Parque Natural, Paraje Natural and so on. All seven coastal regions described fall into one of these categories apart from the Sierra de Mijas which is soon to gain protected status. If all of these areas now have some form of waymarking in place, this only partially covers the routes described in this book and in many cases marker posts are damaged or missing. But with the map sections and walking notes, and the GPS tracks if you use them, you’ll have no problems in finding your way.
The walks in this book are generally one of three types. There are walks which link different coastal villages, others which are circular itineraries which involve some walking at the ocean’s edge, and a third group of inland circuits and gorge walks just a few kilometres back from the sea. At some point during all of the walks you’ll be treated to vistas of the Atlantic or the Mediterranean.
Seven coastal regions
The different walking areas are arranged in seven sections which correspond to the different Natural Parks and protected areas, or combinations of them. In just a few instances the walks described fall just outside official park boundaries, while the Sierra de Míjas will soon be officially declared a protected area. At the beginning of each chapter you’ll find a more detailed overview of each area. The brief description that follows will give an idea of the kind of walking and terrain you can expect to encounter. The first two Natural Parks are on the Costa de la Luz, the next three are on the Costa de la Sol.
La Breña y las Marismas
Walkway leading to La Playa de Zahora near Cape Trafalgar (Costa de la Luz, Walk 5)
The five walks listed are all close to the towns of Vejer, Conil, Los Caños de Meca and Zahara de los Atunes. Most walks follow footpaths very close to the ocean apart from the Marismas circuit, a marsh walk just a few kilometres inland, and the Santa Lucía circuit which is a fifteen-minute drive from the ocean and explores the hills north of Vejer. Gradients are generally gentle in the coastal hinterland while sea breezes help make even summer walking enjoyable.
Los Alcornocales y del Estrecho
The five walks described are close to Los Barrios, Pelayo, Bolonia and Gibraltar. I’ve listed a Gibraltar walk in a southern Spanish walking guide because it’s a stunning excursion and easy to access. Three walks follow footpaths along the ocean’s edge while the other two, which involve more climbing, introduce you to the beautiful southern flank of the Alcornocales park and its unique canuto ecosystem.
La Sierra Bermeja y Sierra Crestellina
Casares seen from the east (Costa del Sol, Walk 13)
Of the five walks listed, two lead out from Casares, one from close to the village and another from a point just north of Manilva while the Pico Reales circuit involves a short drive north from Estepona. Although all walks lie a few kilometres inland you can expect incredible views of the Mediterranean, Morocco and Gibraltar. Be prepared for sections of steepish climbing on all walks although none are graded ‘difficult’.
La Sierra de las Nieves
Of the six walks described one leads out from Marbella and two from El Refugio de Juanar while three hikes begin in the pretty mountain village of Istán. Most walks involve steep sections of climbing though two are quite short in distance. The magnificent Concha ascent is one of the few walks within these pages for which a head for heights is required and there are a couple of points where you’ll need to use your hands as well as your feet.
La Sierra de Mijas
The six walks described begin in the villages of Mijas, Benalmádena, Alhaurín de la Torre and Alhaurín el Grande and lead you to the most beautiful corners of the compact, yet stunningly varied landscape of the Sierra de Mijas. All walks involve sections of steep climbing, while all are easy to follow thanks to the recent waymarking of the local PR and GR footpaths.
La Sierra de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama
Looking north into the Higuerón gorge (Costa Tropical, Walk 30)
The villages of Cómpeta, Canillas de Aceituno and Frigiliana are all situated high on the southern flank of the Sierra de Almijara on the Costa Tropical. All three look out to the Mediterranean and their history and economy have always been inextricably linked to that of the coast. The Maroma ascent, the Imán trail and the Blanquillo circuit are big, full-day walks, the exhilarating gorge walk just inland from Nerja is not be missed while the La Herradura circuit leads you past two of the Costa Tropical’s most beautiful beaches.
Níjar-Cabo de Gata
The volcanic landscapes of the Cabo de Gata region on the Costa de Almería are unique to southern Spain and walks here have a haunting beauty all of their own. In all but the summer months you can expect to meet with few other walkers and the small coastal villages of Agua Amarga, Las Negras and San José have a great range of accommodation for all budgets. The best time of year to be here is spring, when the desert-like landscapes briefly take on a hue of green while in winter this
