In times of inter-tribal tensions, kasbahs allowed entire families and their livestock to shelter inside, while agadirs could store an entire valley's grain harvest as well as providing some accommodation.
Plants and Flowers
Although first impressions of the mountain landscape may be of barrenness, there is a variety of vegetation at differing altitudes within the range.
Cultivated olive trees can grow up to about 1300m, principally in the western end of the range. Almond trees, while common in the Anti-Atlas to the south, are not as widespread as walnut trees, which are the main cash crop for some villages. Cherry trees are grown in valleys north and south of Toubkal, while apples are cultivated in large numbers notably in the Asni/Imlil, Ait Bougammez and Ayyachi/Maasker regions. The endemic argan tree is found in the far western reaches of the range, as is a cactus plant (Opuntia ficus-indica) that produces a yellowy-red ‘prickly pear’ which is harvested and sold in the local towns for eating.
Above village level, the juniper, hardy pine conifers and stunted oak trees are commonly found. The Atlas cedar is found only in the north-eastern extremities of the High Atlas, but it continues into the Middle Atlas where it is much more widespread.
Thorny scrub abounds up to 3500m, which often prevents trekkers finding suitable camping places.
Flower life is limited to a few weeks in late spring. The most widespread flower is the poppy, which, when seen in a vibrant green field of young barley with a snowy mountain massif in the background, is a stunning sight. Crocus, scilla, asphodelus, arbutus, wormwood and myrtle are common.
Wildlife
Wildlife is reasonably sparse. Deforestation and overgrazing by sheep and goats are threatening the future of many of native animals. Boar are not uncommon at village level and even up to 2750m, where their foraging may be evidenced by the top layer of soil having been disturbed in large areas. The Barbary ground squirrel will be seen disappearing as you approach. Wild mouflon are rare but do exist in the Toubkal region. Wildcat and lynx are diminishing fast.
Birdlife, however, abounds, and indeed the whole country is a very rewarding destination for a bird-watching holiday. Species endemic to North-West Africa are Moussier's redstart, Barbary partridge and the Levaillant's green woodpecker. Specific to a wider area of North Africa is the Mourning wheatear and White-crowned wheatear.
White storks may be seen throughout the country, nesting on the most precarious-looking structures. Choughs and Alpine choughs are common, in particular around the Toubkal refuges. Rollers and bee-eaters are late spring/early summer visitors, while hoopoe and jay are seen year-round in the lower forested hillsides. Keep an eye out for the shy Black-crowned tchagra at lower altitudes. A number of species of owl can be seen, given the right habitat – Tawny, Little and Eagle owls are all present in the mountains.
Meadows in springtime, Ait Bougammez
Lammergeier above Toubkal refuges
The High Atlas are also the ideal terrain for raptors – the reward for many bird-spotting mountaineers. Falcons such as the kestrel, Barbary falcon and Lanner falcon; the Long-legged buzzard; both the common Black kite and rare Black-winged kite; and many eagles (Golden, Booted, Tawny, Bonelli) may well be spotted during a typical two-week trip. It is, however, the Lammergeier (Gypaetus barbatus) that is the greatest prize in these areas. There is a breeding pair in the Toubkal region and others in the Mgoun massif. Often the shadow of this great bird gliding in search of carrion is seen against the snowfields. When you look up, its huge size is apparent when compared to the choughs that may be trying to mob it.
Lizards and even chameleons are common, as are tortoises at lower altitudes. These are all harmless. Snakes, scorpion and a particular type of venomous spider locally called ikhikhi are present, more so from late spring to early autumn. The good news is that snakes generally move off at the sound of approaching feet and are not usually found in cold snowy environments! The same is true for scorpions, however they can often be lurking under a rock near a stream, particularly in the spring and summer months. The ikhikhi spider is particularly venomous, but again is not that common. To minimize the chance of any encounters when camping, zip up tent doorways and be very wary of moving big stones.
A baby lizard
When to Go
While the vast majority of routes in the guide can be undertaken in the late spring and autumn, the emphasis is on winter ascents (from early November to mid-April). If you are flexible in terms of timing for your visit, then you can keep an eye on conditions by checking online or telephoning some of the mountain refuges for specific information.
Generally the first snows of the winter fall any time from late October to the end of November – sometimes earlier, rarely later. The greatest volume of snow is on the ground in early March, when the weather is generally becoming more settled – although late winter snowfalls can result in an extended season. Once the winter season has started, snowfall can happen any time, although on average it is about every second or third week that the weather closes in for a few days. Early to mid-March sees a more settled period, with spring-like conditions developing in the lower southern valleys. Mid- to late April sees the start of snowmelt, particularly on the southern slope aspects, but it is not normally until late May to early June that the more sheltered north-facing slopes and gullies begin to lose their winter raiment.
If you are considering routes that require mule support, note that the high traverses between the Tazaghart (Lepiney) refuge and the Toubkal refuges over Tizi Aguelzim, and access to Lac d'Ifni over Tizi Ouanoums, are not generally snow free until mid-June.
Multi-day ridge traverses will require some access to water for drinking and possibly cooking in. Melting snow is the normal way of getting water on these ridges – otherwise long descents and reascents may be required to find a stream. There is therefore a limited season for multi-day ridge routes before snow on the north-facing slopes melts away altogether.
Short days in December and January mean long nights, which are accentuated if you are camping or bivvying, but other than during the Christmas/New Year season these are quiet months. February sees the arrival of ski-tourers in ever increasing numbers in the Toubkal region and, to a lesser extent, in the Mgoun massif. Easter is particularly busy, with the two Toubkal refuges often being booked out by French and Spanish parties. The Mgoun region is also popular at this time. Other areas are quiet year-round.
Mgoun ridge in summer
Counting the walnut harvest
Summer sun-baked rock may be idyllic in the more northern parts of the globe, but in the High Atlas can be very unpleasant. Similarly, the summer months of July and August can generate such heat in the plains and the cities of Marrakech and Taroudant that it can stifle all desire to move. This is a good time for visiting Ait Bougammez and making high-level journeys around the Tarkeddit plateau, which at 2900m is high enough to feel cool even during these summer months – particularly if a strong afternoon wind develops, which is not unusual. The author has been trekking in mid-August in this area, daily enduring heavy hail storms and cold winds, while people in Marrakech
