TOP 25 maps show long-distance paths, local walking routes and a lot of other valuable tourist information, much of which is not shown on the Serie Bleue maps. They cover coastal, mountain and other tourist areas. In Cathar castle country, most of the 1:25,000 maps are in the TOP 25 series.
A grid of numbered kilometre squares covers the maps of newer editions of both 1:25,000 series. The newer editions can also be used with global positioning devices (a GPS symbol is shown on the front). At the time of writing, about two-thirds of the 1:25,000 maps referred to in this book are GPS-compatible. The newer editions of all 1:25,000 maps are also being marketed as Cartes de randonnée (walkers’ maps).
Many newsagents, bookshops and supermarkets in France sell IGN maps. TOP 25 maps cost around 10 Euros each (about £7), while a Serie Bleue map costs around 8 Euros.
The publisher Rando éditions has produced a series of 1:50,000 maps covering the French Pyrenees and their northern foothills, using IGN cartography and also called Cartes de randonnées. In this series, no 9, Montségur, covers an area between Quillan and Foix and is useful for planning walks in the area. It costs around 10 Euros.
The IGN also produces a series of 1:50,000 maps, but these are not usually available in shops and, for walkers, are no adequate substitute for 1:25,000 maps.
For route-planning purposes the IGN’s series of 1:100,000 maps (the Cartes topographiques Top 100 series, or Cartes de promenade) is very helpful. Nos 71 (St-Gaudens Andorre) and 72 (Béziers Perpignan) cover most of Cathar castle country.
IGN’s 1:250,000 maps (Cartes régionales series) are also designed for route planning by road. Cathar castle country is covered by Midi-Pyrénées (R16) and Languedoc- Roussillon (R17). In France, the 1:100,000 and 1:250,000 maps currently cost around 5 Euros each.
IGN’s website is www.ign.fr (in French only). Their maps and other products can be bought via that website using a British credit card. But, with the additional postage and cost of currency transfer, their final prices seem to work out a little higher than those charged by British suppliers of the same maps.
BRITISH MAP SUPPLIERS
Stanfords, 12–14 Long Acre, Covent Garden, London WC2E 9LP; te1: 020 7836 1321; [email protected]; www.stanfords.co.uk.
The Map Shop, 15 High Street, Upton-upon-Severn, Worcs WR8 OHJ; te1: 01684 593146. (Freephone: 0800 085 4080); [email protected]; www.themapshop.co.uk.
Weather, equipment, risks
On the whole, the weather in Cathar castle country is very agreeable. Nevertheless – although the Mediterranean is not far away – don’t imagine that this region is similar to torrid Andalusia or bone-dry Crete. Rather, the weather is like that of Kent – only more so. Winter days are often cold and blustery, but springtime starts earlier and the summers are hotter and last longer. There are more sunny days throughout the year.
However, the climate has a great capacity to catch you out. A hot day in summer can start sunny and clear but a tremendous thunderstorm can suddenly build up in the early afternoon. Typically, that storm could – but not always – vent its fury in less than 30min. In winter there might be weeks of mild, dry weather followed by a day in which half a metre of snow is suddenly dumped on higher ground.
The occasional fierce and unrelenting winds may also surprise. One such wind is the tramontane, which comes from the northwest. Its often-cold temperature can be guarded against with adequate warm clothing and, insofar as it may blow away the clouds and let the sun shine through, it can be welcome. But take great care if you are walking on a hill or mountain ridge when the tramontane is at full blast.
WIND TURBINES
You will often see lines of wind turbines stretched out across high plateaux, now almost as characteristic of Cathar castle country as the castles themselves. None of the walks in this book passes beneath or very close to these.
Weather: usually sunny and warm, but be ready for occasional surprises (this was the summit of the Pech de Bugarach on an abnormal day in mid-April)
The climate also varies a great deal from east to west. On any given day, the weather in the east may be hot and dry, while in the west conditions could be cooler with occasional showers. The vegetation shows corresponding differences. For example, in the east you will find dry, open plateaux covered in garrigue vegetation – scented, often spiky Mediterranean shrubs and herbs. By contrast, in the west there is much humid deciduous forest, where beech trees grow to regal proportions.
Less surprisingly, the climate also changes with altitude. The walks in this book vary from a canal towpath walk at near sea level to a rugged mountain hike at an altitude of over 2300m. For the former, light clothing and trainers will be perfectly adequate, even on some winter days. For the latter you should wear walking boots and carry adequate warm and waterproof clothing at all times of the year.
It is difficult to generalise about the sort of clothing and equipment that you should take with you on these walks. If, for example, you are planning to walk between Easter and early autumn, and undertaking a wide range of walks (including the mountain routes), bring the same range of clothing and equipment that you would pack for, say, a summer walking tour of any upland range in England. Make sure that includes light clothing (T-shirts and shorts) because – if you are lucky with the weather – you may find that you wear little else.
If you already have some experience of walking in various types of terrain in Britain, you won’t need to be told that you should always carry a good map and a compass, especially if going into the hills. Make sure you are equipped with the relevant map(s) and carry a compass – and are capable of using it – when attempting any of the walks described in this book. If you have not done much upland walking before coming to Cathar castle country, read up about it beforehand – get hold of a copy of Cicerone’s The Hillwalker’s Manual by Bill Birkett.
Two things, however, do need to be stressed.
On a day’s walk in this region, at any time of the year, you will almost certainly build up much more of a thirst than you would when walking in Britain. Drinking water is sometimes available at natural springs or drinking taps. But it is best to assume that you will not come across any, so always carry plenty of drinking water with you.
Carry (and apply liberally!) effective sun lotion. In that respect this region does bear comparison with Andalusia and Crete.
A few other warnings are called for (see below), but don’t let these deter you from visiting Cathar castle country. It is, on the whole, a pretty safe place.
The sudden storms mentioned above can cause rivers to rise with amazing rapidity; dry streambeds can become raging torrents with a matter of hours. If your walk includes a stretch of dry riverbed, or a key river crossing, be aware that those sections may become impassable after very heavy rainfall. In the walk descriptions advice is given about possible options.
The storms may be accompanied by lightning. If you can shelter in a mountain refuge (or an orri, an old drystone shepherd’s hut) while a storm rages, well and good. But the likelihood is that the storm will break before you can reach one. Sit on your rucksack in open ground after laying aside anything metal (such as walking poles). You will get very wet, but you will minimise
