Walking in the Cevennes. Janette Norton

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Randonnées, which go all over France and are usually well maintained. Please remember that a cross instead of a splash (of the colour you are following) means that you are about to go in the wrong direction! Some of the local walks join these paths for a while and then break away to circle back to the starting point. Local walks have different coloured splashes, but in some areas these are rather arbitrary and can suddenly disappear for no reason. In others there are so many colours that one gets bewildered!

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      Many of the walks in the Cevennes region are newly signposted, and great strides have been made by the local tourist offices to make the walks clearer. However, it is a wild, remote area, so it is wise to stick to the signposting and splashes and not try to do shortcuts or take other paths indicated on the map – if you are lost you will meet few, if any, other people to ask directions from!

      Observations

      The initial italic paragraph in the walk description gives useful additional information, which might help the reader to decide whether he or she wishes to do the walk. It also includes historical background of the town or village the walk is starting out from, as well as anecdotes about the countryside or things of interest to be seen on the way.

       Read the walk description carefully and look at the IGN map and the sketch map before you go.

       Make sure the walk is within the capacity of you and your companions.

       Give yourself plenty of time by setting off early. If a walk gives a time of 5 hours, allow at least 2 hours extra for looking at things, reading the walk description and eating.

       In the Cevennes, especially in the summer, you will need to take plenty of water and sunscreen – wear reliable sun glasses and a floppy hat.

       Never deviate from the marked path – if there is a short cut it is usually shown. If you are lost go back the way you came, if possible.

       If you are climbing be careful not to dislodge stones or boulders – they can gather momentum as they roll down the slope and hit other walkers.

       Never walk alone, even if you know the route, and always tell someone where you are going.

       Do not pass beyond any barrier indicating‘Proprieté Privée’unless the walk description indicates that this is permitted.

       Even if the day looks hot and fine take waterproof clothing, as the Cevennes often has sudden storms.

       Take your litter home with you. Do not pick the wild flowers but leave them for others to enjoy.

       Do not light matches or make a fire, and take particular care when it has been dry.

       Remember to shut all gates and barriers you go through.

       When walking on roads, face oncoming traffic. Remem­ber that in France this means on the left-hand side of the road.

      The official French Tourist office in the UK is:

      Atout France, Lincoln House, 300 High Holborn

      London WClV 7JH

      Tel: 090 68 244 123 (60p per minute)

       http://uk.franceguide.com

      [email protected]

      They will answer enquiries and send information and brochures.

      By car

      It is not possible to reach many of the walks in this book without a car. If you arrive by train or air and want to hire a car, all the major hire firms operate from stations and airports. Information about rental can be obtained from your local travel agency.

      If you take your own car, the easiest route to the Cevennes is to take the motorway via Reims, Dijon and Valence, which avoids the traffic around Paris. To reach the Cevennes exit at No. 19 (direction Pont St Esprit) and take the N86 to Bagnols followed by the D6 to Alès. From Alès you take the N106 to Florac (northern Cevennes) or follow signs to Le Vigan (southern Cevennes). Another option is to continue on the motorway to Nîmes and take the N106 through Alès to Florac or the D999 to Le Vigan.

      The motorways are refreshingly empty in France compared to Britain, except on some busy holiday weekends, and have excellent stopping areas. However, there are motorway tolls to pay, which can add considerably to the cost of motoring. For route planning: www.viamichelin.com.

      By Rail

      For information on travelling by rail contact:

      Rail Europe Ltd, 34 Tower View, Kings Hill, Kent ME19 4ED

      (UK representative for all SNCF and continental rail travel)

      There are 5 departures per day to Montpellier which is the nearest station to the Cévennes.

      For online booking: www.raileurope.co.uk. For information about rail travel from the UK to France: www.seat61.com/France.htm.

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      The river in the centre of Florac

      By Air

      The nearest airports to the Cevennes region are Nimes (for Florac) and Montpellier (for Le Vigan). It takes about an hour to drive to Le Vigan from Montpellier.

      For information on flights and times contact: www.ryanair.com, www.easyjet.com and www.britishairways.com.

      The Cevennes, because of its geographical diversity, has a much more extreme climate than its neighbour Provence.

      The high mass of the Mont Aiguoul is the most southern part of the Massif Central and creates a barrier between the Mediterranean climate to the south (around Le Vigan) and the more rigorous climatic conditions further north. It catches the high winds and cloud coming off the Mediterranean and has one of the highest rainfalls in France – winter can be bitterly cold and snowy. Further north, around Florac and the Mont Lozère, the climate is more continental – hot in summer and cold in winter.

      The best time to go is in the spring, early summer or autumn; for the southern area April and May can be glorious and the best time to see the spring flowers, but you run the risk of a certain amount of rain, especially in the narrow Cevennes valleys, where it can be quite intense.

      If you travel to the Mont Aigoual and the Lozère region in May there are carpets of alpine flowers, but be prepared for colder weather. June and early July are usually pleasant, as are September and October, when you get the extensive autumnal colouring.

      The

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