8000 metres. Alan Hinkes

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      ALAN HINKES

      8000 METRES

      CLIMBING THE WORLD’S

      HIGHEST MOUNTAINS

      FOREWORD – BRIAN BLESSED

      SHOOTING THE SUMMITS – JOE CORNISH

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      2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA LA7 7PY

      www.cicerone.co.uk

      © Alan Hinkes, 2014

      ISBN 978 1 85284 548 3

      The author has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as the author of this work.

      Text and photographs © Alan Hinkes (unless otherwise stated)

      Maps © Cicerone

      Printed and bound by KHL Printing, Singapore

      Thanks to Vertebrate Publishing for permission to reproduce the quotation from Upon that Mountain.

      Lose your dreams and you will lose your mind.

      Jagger/Richards

      Front cover

      An early-morning view of K2 from Broad Peak. A ribbon of cirrus cloud often forms on K2 around this level, about 7800m. The final 800m pyramid of K2 rises majestically above the cloud layer.

      CONTENTS

       Acknowledgements

       The Himalaya and Karakoram Mountains

       Foreword by Brian Blessed

       Preface

       INTRODUCTION

       1 SHISHA PANGMA

       JERZY KUKUCZKA & THE POLISH CLIMBERS

       2 MANASLU

       REINHOLD MESSNER

       3 CHO OYU

       SUMMIT FLAGS & FIONA

       4 BROAD PEAK

       CHAPATTI & CHIPS

       5 K2

       THE DEATH ZONE

       6 EVEREST

       MALLORY & IRVINE

       7 GASHERBRUM I

       THE TREK-IN

       8 GASHERBRUM II

       COFFEE OR TEA?

       9 LHOTSE

       PHOTOGRAPHY & FILMING

       10 NANGA PARBAT

       KURT DIEMBERGER

       11 MAKALU

       DEALING WITH DEATH

       12 ANNAPURNA

       DRESSED TO SURVIVE

       13 DHAULAGIRI

       THE INCIDENT PIT

       14 KANGCHENJUNGA

       ROSEBERRY TOPPING

       AFTERMATH

       SHOOTING THE SUMMITS BY JOE CORNISH

       APPENDICES

       1 The 8000m peaks and their first ascents

       2 Alan Hinkes Expeditions

       3 Glossary

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      Kangchenjunga: negotiating deep crevasses on the Great Shelf 7000m, during my attempt in 2000. Later I made a solo push but the risk of avalanches eventually forced me to retreat and I fell into the cevasse, breaking my arm.

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      Penitentes on the K2 Glacier create an icy wonderland. Trekking towards Base Camp and the 3000m North Face of K2, China.

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      Looking back along the ridge from the summit of Shisha Pangma, at 8046m. My climbing partner Steve Untch is gasping for air in the rarefied atmosphere. I wait and photograph the Himalayan sunset before catching him up.

      ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

      It

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