appear to scavenge leftovers of picnic food, perch on rocky summits and gather near mountain huts.
Practically all these creatures, and many more, can be seen in their natural habitats in the Swiss National Park in the Lower Engadine (see 4:5).
Environmental Ethics
Mountains are the ultimate symbols of wild nature, and mountaineering in its many forms both recognises and celebrates that wildness. But the growth of tourism and the sheer volume of walkers, climbers and skiers who flock to the Alps in summer and winter alike threaten to reduce and destroy the very wildness that is its primary attraction. Mountains are not eternal and unchanging; they’re fragile, with ecosystems endangered by pollution, climate change and overuse. We who love the Alps are a major part of the problem.
The unchanging way of life of an Alpine farmer
The ugly rash of ski tows and cable lifts that transport tens of thousands of downhill skiers in winter remain throughout the summer as unwelcome intrusions on snow-free slopes that often bear the scars of bulldozed pistes. On the other hand, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and ski touring/ski mountaineering have no reliance on such mechanical aids, and make little or no impact on the environment.
Summer mountaineering is supported by a network of huts, by cable cars and funiculars that enable climbers, trekkers and walkers to gain height without physical effort; thus saving themselves both time and energy. Thousands of kilometres of trails wind across the hillsides, marked by splashes of paint or led by cairns; bolts and fixed anchors are applied to chalk-daubed crags; stairways of rungs, ladders and footplates scale rock faces in a rash of enthusiasm for via ferrata thrills; rescue helicopters and those that supply huts disturb the silence of the skies. All these are part of the infrastructure we’ve come to accept and rely on, yet they are alien to the appeal of wild nature.
While we may imagine that the Golden Age of Mountaineering was also a golden age of untarnished nature, it would be totally unrealistic to believe that the Alps could ever return to the conditions experienced by a handful of 19th-century pioneers who had the mountains virtually to themselves. Yet those of us who cannot resist their lure can do several things to minimise our personal impact on them, no matter how small and insignificant they may seem. Multiplied many thousands of times, they can make a difference.
Äsch and its thunderous waterfall (Chapter 6:3)
INFORMATION AT A GLANCE
Communications When making a telephone call to Switzerland from the UK, the international dialling code is 0041. To call the UK from Switzerland use 0044. Cashless call boxes are operated by a phone card (Taxcard) on sale at post offices, newsagents and railway stations. Many call boxes also accept payment by credit card.
Currency The Swiss Franc (CHF); 100 centimes/rappen = CHF1. The Euro (€) is accepted as a means of payment in establishments near a border, but change will be given in Swiss francs. Major credit cards can be used in most hotels, mountain inns and some huts. ATM (cash machines) are located in the majority of towns and tourist resorts.
Emergency telephone number 117 for police/mountain rescue.
Formalities Visas are not required by holders of a valid UK passport or by other EU nationals. Visitors from other countries should enquire at their local Swiss embassy.
Health precautions There are no endemic contagious diseases in Switzerland, and at the time of writing no vaccinations are required for visitors entering the country, unless arriving from an area where cholera or yellow fever are prevalent, in which case an International Health Certificate will be needed. Consideration should be given to protection from tick-borne encephalitis (TBE) which is carried by the Ixodes tick. Risk is seasonal (March to September) and anyone engaged in outdoor activities could be vulnerable. Inoculation is available from travel clinics – seek advice from your GP. Any medical treatment in Switzerland must be paid for; make sure you have adequate health insurance.
Languages spoken French, German (Schwyzerdütsch), Italian and Romansch, but English is widely understood in many popular areas.
Mountain huts More than 350 huts (manned, unmanned and bivouac shelters) are located throughout the Swiss Alps, most of which belong to the SAC. Reductions in overnight fees are given to members of European Alpine Clubs, and to holders of a reciprocal rights card available to members of the British Mountaineering Council (www.thebmc.co.uk).
National mountaineering organisation Schweizer Alpen-Club, Monbijoustrasse 61, Postfach, CH-3000 Bern 61, Switzerland www.swiss-sport.ch/sac-cas.
Tourist information Switzerland Tourism, 30 Bedford Street, London WC2E 9ED www.MySwitzerland.com.
Leave no litter and take your rubbish back to the valley for proper disposal.
Recycle plastic bottles, glass and aluminium drinks cans (recycling bins are found in many Swiss resorts).
Resist scree running; stick to footpaths and avoid taking shortcuts which can lead to soil erosion.
If there is no alternative but to defecate in the open, do so well away from paths and places where others might take shelter, and at least 30m from streams and lakes. Dig a hole, bury faeces and cover, and burn used toilet paper, taking care not to set fire to vegetation.
Do not pick wild flowers (many are protected, but even those that are not should be left for others to enjoy), and avoid disturbing wildlife.
Wild camping is officially forbidden in Switzerland, but permission is often granted by farmers to those who request it. To minimise the impact, pitch your tent for one night only, light no fires and leave the site as pristine as you found it.
CHAPTER 1: CHABLAIS ALPS
The Dents du Midi group, together with frontier mountains south of Lac Léman and to the west of the Rhône valley, in Canton Valais.
Lac d’Antème lies at the foot of the NW Face of the Dents du Midi, with a small, privately owned refuge nearby
CHABLAIS ALPS: CHAPTER SUMMARY
Location
In Canton Valais, south of Lac Léman (the Lake of Geneva) and west of the Rhône valley. The district’s southern boundary is drawn by the Emosson lakes on the French border, and by the Vallée du Trient which drains to the Rhône above Martigny.
Tour des Dents Blanches (1:2)
Tour des Dents du Midi (1:2)
