first running parallel with the original valley road, it soon angles across the steep hillside of Mont d’Ottan, goes through a tunnel and emerges to cross the Pont du Gueuroz which spans the dramatic Gorges du Trient, here just a few paces wide with the river surging 180m below the bridge. Across this the road climbs on to the small resorts of Salvan and Les Marecottes, both of which have been built on natural shelves high above the gorge facing south and east. Salvan is the larger of the two, but hotel and b&b accommodation is available in both, while from Les Marecottes a cable car rises to Le Creusaz at 1777m for a panoramic view that includes the Mont Blanc range to the south. (Tourist information for both Salvan and Les Marecottes can be obtained from www.salvan.ch).
A narrow side road winds above Salvan heading north past the chalets of Les Granges on the way to the Lac de Salanfe. It is a narrow road too, mostly single-track with passing bays cut into the steeply wooded hillside, and with a couple of tunnels blasted through the rock, from the last of which you come out at the entrance to the Vallon de Van. This is a tight wedge of a valley; a valley of pasture and woodland with the tiny hamlet of Van d’ Haut (1371m) its only habitation reached by shuttle minibus service from Salvan and Les Marecottes in the high summer season. A short distance beyond the hamlet the road comes to a halt at Camping Van d’Haut, from where a mule-path strikes ahead to make the final 500m ascent to the Lac de Salanfe reservoir, reached by a walk of about 1½hrs from the roadhead.
‘Whether you come to climb or not,’ said R L G Irving, ‘you should see the Salanfe basin from which [the Dents du Midi] rise; its praises were sung long ago by Emile Javelle and he has not exaggerated its charm’ (The Alps).
With the ever-busy Auberge de Salanfe (see 1:2) standing at the northeastern corner of the reservoir at 1942m, the Tour Sallière apparently blocking the western end of the lake, and the SE Face of the Dents du Midi rising to its north, this is a truly dramatic and understandably popular location. No wonder the English-language interim guide to the district described it as ‘a sort of “seaside” resort for the Rhône valley townships below’. With clouds hanging in the basin it can seem a haunted place, but on clear days of sunshine it has a unique and exquisite kind of beauty.
For a brief one-off visit a stroll along the south shore of the lake will provide perspective and memorable views (clouds permitting, that is), but the north side gives more variety, especially if you head through the marshy meadows and go part-way towards the Col de Susanfe. And then there’s an undemanding 45min walk northeast of the auberge that leads to Col du Jorat on a broad path used by the TDM (described in 1:2); the col being especially rewarding for those who are unfamiliar with the east side of the Dents du Midi range.
The SAC-owned Cabane de Susanfe stands in the wild little Susanfe valley
More challenging routes for the walker include the climb to Col de Susanfe and ascent of the Haute Cime (see 1:2); the crossing of the same col (in 2–2¼hrs) to gain access to the Vallon and Cabane de Susanfe (40mins from the col) on a path that continues to Champèry; while some 530m or so above and to the south of the lake at the head of a hanging valley, the 2462m Col d’Emaney (1½hrs from the auberge) offers walkers an opportunity to make the uncomplicated ascent of
By crossing the Col d’Emaney to its south side, however, you gain a choice of routes, the easiest being a descent along the left bank of the Vallon d’Emaney to Les Marecottes or Finhaut. A second option links with the highly scenic Col de Barberine (2481m) beyond which lies the Lac d’Emosson; while a third crosses the 2451m Col de Fenestral above Finhaut. This last is part of the Tour du Ruan, of which more below.
Those longer suggestions, of course, take walkers out of the Salanfe basin, while climbers might be persuaded to have a base at the Auberge de Salanfe and enjoy a few routes nearby. Alternatively, for those whose interest is in tackling climbs on the SE Face of the Dents du Midi, the unmanned 20-place Refuge des Dents du Midi is situated just below the almost level Plan Névé glacier at 2884m, and may be reached in about 3–3½hrs from the lake. From this hut both the South Face and WSW Ridge of the Cime de l’Est are obvious attractions; the first offering an exposed PD route with some delicate pitches of III; while the WSW Ridge via the Col de la Cime de l’Est provides the easiest route to the summit (F with pitches of II).
The massive triangular
Though not so well known as the Tour des Dents du Midi described in 1:2, the clockwise Tour du Ruan is another multi-day trek worth the consideration of walkers wishing to understand better the topography of this corner of the Alps. Roughly half the route is spent across the French border, and views are memorable on every stage. (For information see www.tourduruan.com) The route is also described by Hilary Sharp in Trekking in the Alps.
Day 1: Leaving Auberge de Salanfe go round the south side of the Salanfe lake and climb the narrow hanging valley leading to Col d’Emaney, from where the tip of the Matterhorn can be seen far to the east. Descend into the head of the little valley below the Pointes d’Aboillon, wander down the glen to the Emaney chalets, then break away on an alternative path which crosses the stream and climbs to the Col de Fenestral at 2451m. With the Mont Blanc range in view, go down to the Finestral alpage, then contour round to Lac d’Emosson and cross the massive dam wall (more great views of Mont Blanc). Either continue along a service road, or take a signed path through the Gorge du Vieux towards the southern end of Lac du Vieux Emosson. The timber-built Refuge Vieux Emosson (2200m) stands below the dam that closes the eastern end of the lake, and is gained about 7½–8hrs after setting out.
Day 2: A short walk above the refuge leads to the Vieux Emosson lake where you make an arc round its north shore, pass the dinosaur prints (see box) and cross the bounding ridge (with chain safeguards) into France at the cone-shaped Cheval Blanc (2831m). Should you have the energy, and the weather is good, an option here is to make the ascent of Mont Buet at 3096m. Descending into the Combe de Buet the Tour visits the little Lac du Plan du Buet, and continues among limestone towers before descending to the Chalet-Refuge du Grenairon which provides
