parks. The then omission of Nidderdale, Mallerstang, the Howgills and the western outlying hills was heavily criticised, for although beyond the bounds of Yorkshire, they are geologically and geographically connected and equally deserving of protection. Forty years were to pass before Nidderdale was finally designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), but it was not until August 2016 that the national park's boundaries were extended to encompass the remaining areas.
The additional areas increased the park's size by almost a quarter to 2178km² (841 square miles) to make it the country's third largest, with the Nidderdale AONB adding a further 600km² (233 square miles). Somewhat less than half of this is actively managed as agricultural land, while the rest consists largely of open country and moorland. Historic land use, geography and climate mitigate against extensive areas of woodland, and little more than 3% is covered by trees, the largest single area being the coniferous plantations encircling the higher reaches of Langstrothdale.
Because of the geology, extensive bodies of water are also notable by their absence, and in fact only two natural lakes of significance occur in the whole of the Dales – Malham Tarn and Semer Water. However, the gritstone valleys in the south and east harbour a number of man-made reservoirs, built to sustain the industrial towns of West Yorkshire.
The park's resident population is around 20,000 – less than 30 people per square mile. But this figure is swelled by an estimated 3.3 million a day, and half a million overnight visitors each year, increasing the resident population by, on average, almost a half. And while most people live in one of the three small towns lying wholly within its boundaries – Sedbergh, Hawes and Grassington – few of even the remotest dales are totally devoid of habitation. Picturesque villages and hamlets are scattered along the major valleys, with small steadings to be found everywhere, right up into the highest reaches. This all might seem like rather a lot of people, but wander away from the main centres, even on a bank holiday weekend, and you can spend a day on the tops with hardly a soul about.
Distinctive signs mark the boundary of the national park (Walk 8)
The national park takes the Swaledale as its emblem (Walk 30)
Almost all of today’s roads follow ancient lines of travel, as do many of the paths and tracks that lie away from the tarmac. There are few main roads, however, and the majority of the narrow lanes are relatively traffic free and a delight to walk, cycle or ride. In addition, there are in excess of 3200km (2000 miles) of designated footpaths, bridleways and tracks, which contour the dales, climb the intervening hills and criss-cross the open moors. And, following the implementation of the CROW Act in 2000, around 1087km² (about 420 square miles), including the majority of the upland area, is now designated open access land.
Much of the countryside encompassed within the legislation is upland moor and heath, and is identified on OS Explorer maps by peach-coloured (open land) and light-green (woodland) tints. Access points on the ground are usually identified by a circular brown-and-white symbol of a walking figure. Within these areas you have a right to wander (but not cycle), even where there is no path, but there are responsibilities too. These are generally common sense, such as following the Countryside Code (see www.openaccess.gov.uk) and being careful not to cause damage. Dogs are sometimes permitted too, but should be on a close lead near livestock and during the bird-breeding season (1 March to 31 July). However, on many of the grouse moors dogs are not allowed at any time other than on designated public footpaths. Landowners are entitled to suspend or restrict access for short periods, for example during the grouse-shooting season or while heather and gorse burning takes place. There may also be restrictions for conservation purposes. Such closures are notified in advance and should be respected, but do not affect any public rights of way that may run across the land.
PRACTICALITIES
Although none of the routes described in this book is technically demanding, many venture onto upland moors where paths may be vague or non-existent, and conditions can be very different from those in the valleys. The weather can rapidly deteriorate at any time of year, and inexperienced walkers should be aware that it is easy to become disorientated in mist. However, taking a few simple and common-sense precautions will help ensure you get the best out of the day.
Navigation and maps
Take heed of any warning signs (Walk 9)
The mapping extracts (1:50,000) accompanying each walk in this guidebook are provided to indicate the general outline of the route and are not intended as a substitute for the map itself. The context of the wider area will not only add to the enjoyment of identifying neighbouring hills and other features, but is vital should you wander off course or need to find a quick way back.
On the open moors and hills, paths may be indistinct or non-existent and, particularly in poor visibility, the terrain may pose navigational problems for inexperienced walkers. You should therefore be competent in the use of map and compass and, while a GPS receiver can be a useful additional aid, you should know how to use it and be aware of its shortcomings. Remember, too, to carry spare batteries. Be aware of your limitations, and do not start out if anticipated conditions are likely to be beyond your experience, and should the weather deteriorate unexpectedly, always be prepared turn back.
The area is covered by Ordnance Survey maps at both 1:25,000 and 1:50,000 scales, the larger scale showing a greater detail that is often invaluable. The key maps for the walks in this guide are: Explorer OL2 – Yorkshire Dales (Southern & Western areas); Explorer OL30 – Yorkshire Dales (Northern & Central areas); Explorer OL19 – Howgill Fells & Upper Eden Valley; and Explorer 298 – Nidderdale.
Careful planning
Plan your walk in advance, bearing in mind your party’s capabilities and the anticipated weather conditions for the day. The times given in this guidebook for each walk are based on Naismith’s Rule, and are provided merely as a guide. They make no allowance for stops along the way, and in practice your time may be significantly greater, since it will depend on your level of fitness, ability to cope with the particular terrain, and other factors such as weather.
The amount of height gain, poor conditions underfoot and lousy weather can add considerably to both the time and effort needed to complete a walk, and it is a good idea to make your own estimate, adapting Naismith’s Rule to match your own performance. Naismith’s Rule basically takes into account distance and height gain, allowing one hour for every 5km (3 miles) and a further half hour for each 300m ascended. By monitoring your own performance over a period to determine appropriate personal times for each element of the calculation, you can achieve a reasonably reliable formula that suits your own level of capability. Having said that, particularly if you are out alone, it is also a good idea to leave a note of your intended route and return time with someone (not sitting on the dashboard of your car as an open invitation to a thief).
Clothing and footwear
Wear appropriate clothing and footwear and carry a comfortable rucksack. The variability of British weather can pack all four seasons into a single day – sun, rain, wind and snow – with the temperature bobbing up and down like a yo-yo. All this makes deciding what to wear for a day on the hills potentially more difficult than choosing an outfit for a wedding. The comprehensive advice is to be prepared for everything, and with today’s technical fabrics, this is not as daft as it may seem.
Lightweight jackets and trousers can be both effectively wind- and waterproof without being too cumbersome should the weather
