Korea. A Chinese import, jajang is often sold under its Chinese name, ja jiang or zha jiang. Dark Japanese miso paste may be used as a substitute, although the taste is rather different.
Korean chili powder (gochugaru) adds much of the heat associated with Korean food and finds its way into almost every dish. It is made from potent red chili peppers that are dried in the sun and then round. The result is darker and coarser than varieties of ground chili seen elsewhere and has a slightly burnt flavor. This powder is easy to find in Korean markets. When it is not available, other chili powders can be used in its place, though the amounts should be adjusted to taste as the heat levels vary widely. Some cooks recommend a blend of cayenne pepper and paprika as a substitute—1 teaspoon for each teaspoon of Korean chili powder.
Korean hot bean paste (gochujang) is a thick, red paste made from rice powder, fermented soy beans, red chili powder and salt, with small amounts of sugar or honey sometimes added. It forms the base for stews and marinades and is also used as a dressing. It has a bold, spicy flavor with a touch of sweetness, especially in varieties where sugar or honey is added. The paste is usually sold in plastic tubs and can be stored in the refrigerator for months. There is no real substitute for gochujang, but if none is available the flavor can be approximated by adding red chili powder and a bit of sugar to Japanese miso paste—1 teaspoon of chili powder and ½ teaspoon sugar for each tablespoon of miso is a good guideline.
Korean noodles (myeon) that are popular in Korea include somyeon, thin white wheat noodles; jeolmyeon, thick buckwheat noodles with a springy texture; and tangmyon, delicate glass noodles made from sweet potato starch. These are all available in dried form from Korean food stores.
Korean rice is the short-grain, sticky variety, similar to Japanese rice, which can be used if no Korean brands are available. To cook this type of rice properly, place equal amounts of uncooked rice and water (approximately 150 g/¾ cup of uncooked rice per person) in a large pot and allow it to soak for 30 minutes. Cover the pot and bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15-20 minutes, until no water is left. Remove from the heat and allow it to sit, covered, for another 10-15 minutes before removing the lid, fluffing the rice with a fork, and serving.
Korean soybean paste (doenjang) is second only to gochujang in the list of essential Korean ingredients and is a critical ingredient in soups, dips and sauces. Made from soybeans fermented first in sunlight and then in brine, this brown, chunky paste is thick and salty, and only small amounts are needed to flavor an entire dish. Unlike gochujang, it contains no chili powder and generally has a thicker consistency. While the taste is reminiscent of Japanese miso, doenjang has a much stronger flavor and only the darkest Japanese misos (hatchomiso or akamiso) can be substituted in most dishes.
Mung bean sprouts are used extensively in Korean cooking. They are larger and plumper than normal bean sprouts, with a crisp, fresh flavor. Mung bean sprouts can be bought fresh at most large supermarkets.
Mushrooms grow wild throughout Korea and are often prepared as part of a stew or stir-fry or alone as an accompaniment to a larger meal. The most common varieties include the meaty, rich shiitake,a medium-sized mushroom with an umbrella-shaped brown cap; the pyogo or oak mushroom, a mild mushroom with a tan hue and a large circular cap; and the nutty porcini, a large mushroom with a white stalk and reddish-brown cap. Fresh and dried porcini and shiitake mushrooms are widely available, but dried pyogo mushrooms are found only in Asian supermarkets.
Pine nuts are the small, white seeds of the pine tree and are often used in Korean dishes, particularly desserts, as a garnish. Also common in Italian cuisine, pine nuts have a soft, buttery flavor that is further enhanced when roasted. Blanched almonds can be used as a substitute if you cannot get pine nuts.
Rice wine is common in Korean and Japanese dishes. Clear and mild, it has low alcohol content and is added in small amounts to enhance the flavor of seafood or meat. Like soy sauce, it comes in different shades—the recipes in this book use white rice wine, which is sometimes referred to by its Japanese name, sake. Chinese rice wine or dry sherry maybe used also.
Sesame oil is made from pressed roasted sesame seeds and has a strong, nutty flavor that no other oil can match. The Koreans pride themselves on making the best sesame oil but Chinese or Japanese variants, although not as fragrant, work equally well in most Korean dishes.
Sesame seeds are a common garnish, used to flavor vegetable dishes and marinades. If bought fresh, they should be dry-roasted before using in Korean dishes. Roast them by heating a frying pan over medium heat, adding the seeds, and tossing them continually for 2-3 minutes until they begin to brown, ensuring they’re removed from heat before they begin to pop and burn.
Soy sauce (ganjang) is made by fermenting soybeans and is an essential ingredient in Asian cooking. Rich and salty, it takes the place of salt and comes in a wide range of textures and shades. As with sesame oil, the Chinese and Japanese variants serve equally well in Korean recipes.
Tofu, or soybean curd, is the basis for many Korean dishes and a good source of protein. Milky-white and with a neutral taste, its consistency ranges from firm to soft depending on the type. Silken tofu, known as sundubu in Korean, is one of the softest varieties, with a creamy, custard-like texture. Most other Korean recipes use soft tofu, or dubu in Korean. Soft tofu is easily found in most supermarkets.
Wasabi (Japanese horseradish) is unrelated to Western horseradish but produces a similarly sharp, biting effect on the tongue and in the nose. It is used to season sushi and is commonly available in a powdered form that can be reconstituted by mixing with warm water to form a thick paste. If you can’t find it, freshly grated wasabi root has a much more intense flavor.
Classic Cabbage Kimchi
Born from the need to preserve vegetables throughout the country's long and bitter winter months, this fermented pickled cabbage is a mandatory presence on every Korean table. Its high vitamin content and tart, slightly sour and spicy flavor is now winning many converts abroad.
1 large Chinese cabbage (about 1½ kg/3½ lbs)
3 liters (12 cups) water
250 g (1 cup) sea salt or coarse salt
Stuffing
1 daikon radish (about 500 g/1 lb), peeled and cut into thin strips
5 tablespoons Korean chili powder (gochugaru), or to taste
10 cloves garlic, minced
4 tablespoons minced fresh ginger root
250 ml (1 cup) fish sauce
1 onion, finely grated
1
