3
Double the tenugui lengthwise, fold ends in to form a triangle. Turn inside out and place on head. This is particularly useful for young children.
Tying Men Himo
Here are two ways of tying a men, from the top with long “kansai himo” or from the bottom with shorter “kanto himo.” The second method is simpler and more usual, so we will stick with this. The himo are tied at the fourth from bottom bar and pre-threaded through the top bars of the men and placed inside. After tying the tenugui we take out the ends of the men himo and hold them in our left hand while pulling open the himo which are already in place at the back of the men. Holding the men from the tsukidate, push your face in chin first. Pull both himo tight from the top then tie a half knot at the back, turning it into a bow which should sit in the groove at the base of your skull. You should ensure that the loops and tails of your men himo are of equal length and that they do not exceed 16 inches (40cm). For some obscure reason, even short himo are made a fraction too long to achieve this, so if you want to get it right, be prepared to get the scissors out. Kendo himo if cut will fray, so it is necessary to retie the ends as shown above.
Kote
With kote, the futon or wrist part should be laced tightly enough so that it does not move too much when it is hit, but it should also be loose enough to get your hand in easily. The futon should retain its tubular shape and not be allowed to open at the end like a cone. If laces are too long they should be cut, sealed at the end with vinyl tape, and retied as shown. The hands of the kote should be big enough for you to move your fingers comfortably and cover the whole of your palm.
Shinai
In modern kendo we use yotsuware shinai made from four strips of bamboo. These bamboo (take) are held together with a leather cap (sakigawa), a leather strip tied at a quarter of the shinai’s length (nakayui), and a leather handle (tsukagawa). The leather fittings are held together by a tightly tied string (tsuru) which represents the back of the blade. Inside the shinai, a sakigomu supports the kissaki and a metal plate or chigiri the handle.
Shinai weights are regulated for competition as follows:
| FIK Specifications for competition use of one Shinai (Itto). | ||||
| Specification | Gender | Junior High School (12-15 yrs) | Senior High School (15-18 yrs) | University students and Adults (18yrs+) |
| Maximum length | Male & female | 45 inches (114cm) | 46 inches (117cm) | 47 inches (120cm) |
| Minimum weight | Male | 16 ounces (440g) | 17 ounces (480g) | 18 ounces (510g) |
| Female | 14 ounces (400g) | 15 ounces (420g) | 16 ounces (440g) | |
| Minimum diameter of sakigawa | Male | 1 inch (25mm) | 1¼ inch (26mm) | 1¼ inch (26mm) |
| Female | ¾th inch (24mm) | 1 inch (25mm) | 1 inch (25mm) | |
| Minimum length of sakigawa | Male and Female | 2 inches (50mm) | 2 inches (50mm) | 2 inches (50mm) |
| FIK Specifications for Competition use of two Shinai (Nito). | |||
| Specification | Gender | Daito (long shinai) | Shoto (short shinai) |
| Maximum length | Male & female | 45 inches (114cm) | 24 inches (62cm) |
| Weight | Male | 16 ounce (440g) minimum | 10-11 ounce (280-300g) maximum |
| Female | 14 ounce (400g) minimum | 8-10 ounces (250-280g) maximum | |
| Minimum diameter of sakigawa | Male | 1 inch (25mm) | ¾th inch (24mm) |
| Female | ¾th inch (24mm) | ¾th inch (24mm) |
These lengths are however generally referred to by the old Japanese shaku and sun measurement; 3.7, 3.8, and 3.9 equate respectively to 45 inches (114cm), 46 inches (117cm) and 47 inches (120cm). Although there appears to be no regulation banning longer or shorter shinai for practice, these sizes are used universally in everyday training. In competition it is acceptable to shorten a shinai given that it still reaches the regulated weight.
Although length and weight are regulated, there is still a wide choice of shinai styles. The two main types are dobari and koto. Dobari shinai are shaped with a bulge below the tsuba and tend to feel lighter than the traditional koto shinai, which has a straight blade or jinbu and where the balance is more toward the tip.
Shinai styles
Other options are based around handle size and shape. Round handles are the norm but koban or oval handles are also available. These feel more like using a katana and tend not to accidentally slip round in your hands. The obvious disadvantage is that as the individual take are of uneven sizes, it is harder to repair a koban shinai by substituting a single take.
There is also a wide variety of grip diameters. Many shinai makers have started to make a variety of “fat handles” to fit bigger hands. Some of these are a little too big for all but the most ham fisted. It is best to choose a grip size that comfortably fits your hand but leaves room for you to maneuver with your tenouchi.
The length of the handle or tsuka is important as this can affect your cutting action. The tsuka should fit in the crook of your right arm so that when you grip it your index finger should be just below the tsuba. Many shinai come complete with leather fittings, but in cases where the bamboo and the fittings are bought separately, many kendoka will purchase a 3.8 tsukagawa for a 3.9 shinai. The tsukagawa tends to stretch in keiko and may need shortening at some stage. In some cases this can be done by turning the front of the tsukagawa back, but in others it is easier to cut and reclose the hilt end.
Depending on source of the bamboo and whether shinai are machine or handmade there is a wide variety of price. The most expensive can be 10 times the cost of the cheapest. Japanese grown madake shinai command a premium price as bamboo grown in colder climates tends to be denser and stronger than that
