the heavens. At such moments one feels as though he were hopelessly trapped by these waves of humanity between the endless man-made canyon walls; so much so that once he finds himself again in the open countryside where the old eternal modes of farming persist, it is as though he had been suddenly transported to another world remote from modern man.§ 2. Visitors at the Imperial Palace Plaza
On longer acquaintance, however, after the visitor has became more used to the throngs of people everywhere on the streets of Tokyo, he becomes aware of individuals and types. For example, here at the Imperial Palace Plaza, he sees many groups of tourists, young and old, men and women, from all provinces and nations, arriving and departing every hour of the day. Then, too, there are those platoons of school children—boys and girls in their navy blue uniforms—parading around the plaza continuously. The tiniest of them have quaint yet practical tags sewed on their uniforms identifying them, in the event of a mishap, by name and school. Each flock seems shepherded by a teacher carrying a small pennant, apparently designed to keep his little troop in line and to avoid losing any of his wards.
§ 3. Asakusa Kannon Temple
Though all of Tokyo's ten million live in crowded quarters, the most teeming quarter of all is that surrounding the Asakusa Kannon Temple. In all the streets radiating from the temple's main entrance, one finds people closely packed together like sardines. In front of the temple there is a large wooden offering box into which the pilgrims drop their coins. Above this box a huge lantern hangs. A strange custom dating back to the Edo period still persists here, for on this lantern one sees inscribed the names of the leading geisha girls and geisha house owners.
§ 4. Kabuki Theater
Kabuki has come to epitomize the artistry as well as the magnificence of Japanese culture. It is no wonder then that the Kabuki Theater has been accepted as a rendezvous in the capital city for cultured people from all over Japan, as well as for distinguished visitors from abroad. During the performances given in this palatial theater, the audience senses all those spiritual qualities, those noble feelings that characterize the Japanese people at their best—a subtle blending of taste, tradition, and technique that enables this nation to give vent to its feelings without losing dignity and without sacrificing beauty.
§ 5. The Tokyo International House of Japan
A very important gathering place for foreign scholars and students, the Tokyo International House of Japan is located at Toriizaka, Azabu in Tokyo. In addition to housing lecture halls and halls for social affairs, it has facilities for boarding and lodging numbers of visitors from distant lands. Formerly the private estate of Baron Iwasaki, the grounds surrounding International House offer its visitors the comfort and delight of a beautifully laid out and carefully maintained Japanese garden in the great tradition.
§ 6. Night Scene on Ginza
All hues of neon lights flash in the night sky. Like dancers in the street, Ginza's endless streams of human souls move on and on. The walk is called gimbura, meaning without any set purpose or destination.
§ 7. Kamakura Beach
Along the undulating shoreline's length all the way from Odawara to Chigasaki, Oiso, and Enoshima, the traveler is charmed by the sight of small boats wavering like sea birds along the sand dunes.
§ 8. Odawara Station on the Tokaido
How Hiroshige loved these pines! Pine trees were the bone and sinew of "The Fifty-Three Stages of the Tokaido." Of endlessly fascinating forms and shapes these pine trees are a source of wonder to the traveler. However, many of them were felled during the Second World War for fuel, and we find only here in this particular scene a portion of the grove in its original unspoiled state, very much as it must have looked in Hiroshige's time.
§ 9. Koki-an in the Rain
Koki-an in Odawara is one of the three famous teahouses built by the minister and art-lover, Yamagata Aritomo. His other two masterpieces, the Murin'an and Chinzanso, are in Kyoto and Tokyo respectively. Here at Koki-an what makes the traveler stand spellbound are the abundant waters sluicing down from the Hakone mountains in the background, plus a magnificent view of Sagami Bay to the east.
§ 10. Izu-Kawana
At one time the summer villa of the late Baron Okura, the Kawana Hotel stands in the midst of a great estate of several hundred acres, including two beautiful golf courses. Because of its mild climate, tempered by its Pacific coastline, plus the views of Hatsushima, Oshima, and other islands off its shores, one can almost imagine himself at Carmel with its Seventeen-Mile Drive, looking eastward over the mightiest of oceans.
§ 11. Izu Bay from the Fuji Observation Point at Hakone
Lying beyond tier upon tier of mountain ranges struggling to harmonize with the panorama, Izu Peninsula lies dreamily remote.
§ 12. Looking at Mt. Fuji from Daikanzan
Throughout the four seasons with their subtle changes of the scene one enjoys boundless views of Mt. Fuji whether he stays in one place or moves from vantage point to vantage point around its massive base. Among such endlessly pleasurable views, the one from Daikanzan (Mt. Daikan) is certainly the most dramatic. Before one lies Ashinoko (Lake Ashi) from whose distant shore rise rolling hills in a crescendo toward Fuji's very summit. By late afternoon, light deepens into shadow in the distance, while the few remaining clouds drift idly by leaving Fuji standing in the clear, calm evening sky.
§ 13. In the Gathering Dusk at Ashinoko
On his way to Ashinoko, after passing Jikkoku Toge (Jikkoku Pass) the traveler encounters this tranquil scene lying far below him in the evening calm.
§ 14. Mt. Fuji from Ashinoko, Hakone
The steep slopes around Ashinoko afford the viewer endless enjoyment because of their constantly changing shades and tints. Above and beyond them all towers Fuji in the distance like a prima donna surrounded by her chorus.
