href="#u19af3019-8f61-5ae0-af0a-9175ad89dc09">140). Once again, simplicity is the key theme in Thai cooking so it isn’t difficult to keep main pantry items on hand with your dishes ultimately coming alive with fresh vegetables, aromatic herbs, and proteins.
Bamboo shoots are the part of a bamboo plant that is harvested before it matures. The edible part is the tender cream-colored meat inside the shoot. Large shoots are often sliced and added to curries. Smaller shoots can be eaten whole as a dish onto themselves, either cooked or pickled. Available fresh, canned or bottled, bamboo shoots are found in Asian markets and many grocery stores.
Banana leaves make a beautiful and aromatic wrap for foods like rice, fish, and meat. The long, waxy leaves transfer some of their subtle grassy aroma to any food wrapped within them. Before using banana leaves, they should be placed in hot water or carefully held over a flame for a few seconds to make them more pliable. if you can’t find banana leaves, use lotus or large cabbage leaves, or, the old stand-by, aluminum foil. The leaves are often sold frozen in Asian and Latin markets. I buy a few packs at a time to have on hand in my freezer. They’re great for dressing up platters when entertaining.
Basil (Thai and holy) is an essential ingredient in Thai cooking and is used throughout this book. Thai basil and holy basil are the two most commonly used varieties of basil in Thai cooking. Thai, or Asian, is a tropical variety with a strong peppery, anise flavor that stands up really well to cooking. It has purple flowers, red-tinged stems, and pointy green leaves. Holy basil is so named because it is held sacred in the hindu culture. It is revered in Thai cooking for its subtle, minty flavor that comes alive when heated. When buying either variety, choose bunches that are fresh, fragrant, and show no signs of wilting. Separate the leaves from the stems and wash and dry them well before use. A substitute for either variety is fresh italian basil (the kind found in most supermarkets). Italian basil isn’t quite as fragrant or flavorful as Thai or holy basil so you may want to add a bit more.
Black mushrooms Also known as dried shiitakes or fragrant mushrooms, black mushrooms are incredibly versatile. When dried black mushrooms are presoaked in water they plump up and have a deliciously meaty taste and texture. Strain the water used to soak the mushrooms and add it to dishes to add even more flavor to stir-fries, soups, rice dishes, and curries.
Coconut milk Slightly sweet and creamy with a light jasmine aroma, coconut milk is a popular ingredient in Thai cooking. It adds richness and flavor to curries, sauces, soups, desserts, and drinks. Made by pressing fresh coconut flesh, the first pressing produces thick, creamy coconut cream, and subsequent pressings produce thinner, yet still creamy, coconut milk. It is widely available in cans. Choose an un-sweetened variety and shake it well because it will have separated in the can. Coconut milk is widely available and available at most grocery stores. It’s also great for lactose-free diets.
Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro) Also known as Chinese parsley, coriander leaves are one of the most popular fresh herbs in the world and are used throughout the recipes in this book. Its refreshingly spicy, citrusy flavor tempers the heat in many Thai dishes. Whether chopped to release its maximum flavor or left whole, coriander leaves are best enjoyed raw and added just before serving a cooked dish. Fresh coriander leaves, seeds, and stems are also important ingredients in Thai cuisine. The seeds are coriander, a spice that is an ingredient in some Thai dishes. The stems have a strong peppery aroma, which makes them a popular addition to curry paste and homemade stocks.
Curry pastes The most common ingredients in curry pastes include chilies, garlic, galangal, and lemongrass, which are ground together into an intensely aromatic paste. What gives each curry paste its distinct color depends on whether curry powder or chilies have been added to the mix. Yellow curry paste gets its color from curry powder, which contains turmeric, and is the sweetest kind of curry paste. Green curry paste contains green chilies and has a brighter, sharper flavor than other curry pastes. Thick red curry paste gets its color and bold spiciness from red chilies. A sealed container of curry paste can last up to a month in the refrigerator. My favorite brands are Maesri and Mae Ploy.
Curry powder Curry powder is traditionally made from ground turmeric, coriander, cumin, and dried red pepper. Curry powder gives yellow curry its distinct color and slightly sweet, tangy flavor. Curry powder’s flavor “opens up” when heated, most often in coconut milk or oil. Curry powder is widely available in the spice section of your grocery store. American brands tend to run on the mild side, so go to an Asian or Indian market if you prefer a spicier curry powder.
Dark soy sauce Made from fermented soybeans, dark soy sauce is aged longer and is slightly sweeter and thicker than regular soy sauce. It sometimes contains molasses or caramel to deepen its color and thicken its consistency. Heating dark soy sauce releases its full, rich flavor in sauces and gravies used in stir-fries and noodle dishes like Pad Wee Ew and Thai Flat noodles. It is also a popular ingredient in marinades and dipping sauces. Dark soy sauce can keep for a long time in a cool, dry place. Discontinue use if it has any crystallization around the opening of the bottle or shows any thickening at the bottom of the bottle. You can find dark soy sauce at Asian markets and some specialty stores.
Chilies There are almost as many varieties of chilies as there are cultures. Thai chilies happen to be some of the hottest. Small or long, green or red, dried or fresh, Thai chilies are used in everything from curries and soups to sauces and flavored vinegar. The two most popular varieties are long Thai chili and small Thai chili. Small, bird or bird’s-eye chili, is more common in the United States than long Thai chili, and ranges from mild to very hot. Wear rubber gloves when cutting hot chilies, or be sure to wash your hands thoroughly afterwards to avoid getting the oil on your face or in your eyes. Also, wash cutting surfaces after chopping chilies or you may transfer the heat to other foods. I recommend using fresh jalapeño or Serrano chilies if you can’t find Thai chilies. Deseed chilies if you prefer less heat or omit altogether or choose a milder type if cooking for young children.
Dried shrimp paste This pungent paste is made from fermented dried shrimp and salt and is used to make curry pastes, sauces, and soups. Sold in small jars or blocks, a little goes a long way! Dried shrimp paste should be used sparingly as it’s quite pungent and strong in aroma. You’ll only need this ingredient to make Roasted Red Chili Paste (page 23) in this book. Dried shrimp paste is available at Asian markets.
Fish sauce (nam pla) No Thai kitchen is complete without a bottle of fish sauce. In fact that goes for every kitchen throughout Southeast Asian. I collect bottles of fish sauce like other people collect bottles of wine. Fish sauces range from mild to strong and smoky to pungent. The finest ones are clear and light amber in color. Fish sauce is made from layering anchovies and salt in a sealed container for about six months then siphoning off the fermented liquid. Fish sauce’s signature fishy, briny aroma dissipates when cooked. It emboldens and brings together the other flavors in any dish. I prefer ones with no sugar added so that the fishy aroma shines through. Fish sauce doesn’t need to be refrigerated. It will keep indefinitely in the cupboard. As a general rule, 1 tablespoon of fish oil equals 1 teaspoon of salt. A good
