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HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (HDC)
Yarn over and insert your hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through work. Yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook.
DOUBLE CROCHET (DC)
Yarn over and insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through work. Yarn over and pull through two loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through remaining two loops.
DECREASING AND INCREASING
Standard Decreasing is best for flat pieces that will be visible from both sides.
To decrease you insert your hook into first of stitches to be decreased, yarn over and pull through. Repeat for remainder of stitches to be decreased.
Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.
Invisible Decreasing is best for working in the round when the back of the piece will not be visible.
To work the invisible decrease you insert your hook into the front loop of the first of stitches to be decreased, do not yarn over, insert hook into next front loop.
Yarn over and pull through all front loops. Yarn over and pull through the two loops on hook.
The photos below are examples.
Increasing is simple technique where you crochet multiple stitches into one stitch space
The below photos are examples.
Optional tools
PLIERS: in case your needle gets stuck in a tight stitch, pulling it through with your hands can be difficult and lead to a smooshed or dirty final piece. Just remember not to pull too hard or you could snap the needle in half.
FELTING NEEDLE: For stuffing and shaping the small pieces. Stuffing is rather springy by nature and using the felting needle gives a dense body that will hold it’s shape with regular handling.
A SMALL BLUNT TIP OBJECT: I like to use the non business end of a bamboo skewer. If you don’t have one you can use your scissors and open them up just a bit. The ends will grab the stuffing and help compact it, but it won’t be as snug as using the felting needle. If you haven’t got anything else the non hook end of a crochet will do.
Tools and materials
GOOD SHARP SCISSORS: preferably no longer than 3-4 inches. Larger scissors get cumbersome when working with your tiny pieces.
EMBROIDERY NEEDLE: long and thin needles will work the best for weaving in yarn ends, it makes pulling through the tiny tight stitches a good deal easier. Make sure the eye isn’t too wide or sewing up your mini will be a very tough and leave your piece looking like Swiss cheese.
SMALL CROCHET HOOKS: Size 8-10 for double stranded, size 10-12 for single strand. You can use any size if you adjust your fiber accordingly. All these miniatures can be made full sized buy using a G-H hook and a worsted weight yarn.
STUFFING: For stuffing your creations. I prefer to use a cotton or cotton-poly blend, it holds it shape better than straight poly-fill.
CROSS STITCH FLOSS OR CROCHET THREAD: I prefer DMC personally and will include the color number for DMC skeins, and total number of skeins used in all the patterns in this book.
ITEMS THAT CAN BE USED FOR EYES: You can use French knots, a triple strand will stand out the best. Small beads are great, even small brads might work depending on the size of your finished piece and the look you are going for.
CROCHETING IN THE ROUND
Crocheting in the round is very easy once you learn the ropes. There are several ways to start your circle, but for this book I’m going to show you the one I use.
Begin by chaining 2, Single crochet 6 (or eight depending on pattern) into the first chain you made. Do not finish or slip stitch, simply start the next round in the first stitch of previous row. You’ll double your stitches on the next row by crocheting two into each stitch.
For subsequent rows you’ll add one single crochet between the 2SC stitches. The photos below show examples of ever increasing rows.
CHANGING COLORS AND JOINING NEW YARN
There are three main reasons to join new yarn to your project:
THE FIRST: A color change at the end of a row. When you reach the end of your row, yarn over with the new yarn and pull through the loop on hook. Continue on with your pattern.
