Japan: The Soul of a Nation. John Carroll

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      Published by Tuttle Publishing, an imprint of Periplus Publishing

      Copyright © 2003 Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.

      ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

       ISBN: 978-1-4629-1460-9 (ebook)

       LCCN 2002103669

       Printed in Singapore

      All photographs by Michael Yamashita except the following:

       P. 6, Luca Tettoni Photography P. 55, Luca Tettoni Photography/Brian Lovell

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      Front Endpaper: The Miyako Odori (Cherry Blossom Dance) is performed by eight maiko, apprentice geisha, at the Gion Kobu-Kaburenjo Theater in Kyoto.

      Photographer's Dedication

      To Lil and Maggie

      Photographer's Acknowledgements

      Throughout my 30-year love affair with Japan, from my first "roots" trip in 1971 to my most recent assignment this year covering Tokyo Bay, there have been many people who have helped me along the way. Special thanks go to Nobuo Yabashi and the Yabashi family, my first employer in Japan; to Pacific Press Service president Robert Kirschenbaum, my close friend and advisor, as well as the entire PPS staff; to Kunio Kadowaki, my most frequent guide and assistant in Japan; to Shiro Nakane, who introduced me to the worlds of gardens and geisha; to National Geographic magazine and National Geographic Traveler magazine, on whose assignments many of these pictures were taken (with acknowledgements to National Geographic magazine for the photographs on p. 58 and p. 91); to Yoko Yoshioka, editor of JAFmate, who also sent me on many a Japan shoot; to Osama Iijima of Dai Nippon CDC and Nikon Cameras for their assignments in Tohoku; to Stan Braverman, former art director of Signature magazine, who gave me my first job as a professional photographer in Japan; and finally, thanks to my publisher, Eric Oey and his wife Christina, for their enthusiastic support.

      A hishaku, bamboo ladle, sits on an ablution basin inset in a stone in the Ryoanji rock garden in Kyoto. Ritual cleanliness is a key characteristic of Japanese culture.

      Three geisha in exquisite kimono dance at a party in Kyoto's Gion entertainment district.

      Contents

       The Japanese Enigma

       Traditional Japan

       Modern Japan

       Country Japan

       A Nation of Aesthetes

       The Soul of Japan

      The Japanese Enigma

      "The people whom we have met so far are the best who have as yet been discovered, and it seems to me that we shall never find among heathens another race to equal the Japanese. They are a people of very fine manners, good in general, not malicious. They are men of honor to a marvel, and prize honor above all else in the world. They are a poor people in general, but their poverty, whether among the gentry or those who are not so, is not considered a shame."

      — Francis Xavier, in his first letter from Japan to superiors in Goa

      A pair of wooden geto, slippers, at the venerable Tawaraya Inn, which has been operating for more than three centuries.

      Snow falls on the Nijubashi bridge of the Imperial Palace in Tokyo.

      If Westerners consider Japan to be exotic, other Asians usually consider it an enigma. In fact, there is a question as to whether Japan should be classified as a sub-unit of the East Asian cultural sphere or treated as a separate civilization in its own right. Complicating (he matter further, the Japanese frequently declare themselves to be unique, even while speaking of "we Asians" in contra-distinction to the West But in the eyes of many Asians, Japan seems in Asia but not of Asia. What then is Japan?

      The first key to understanding Japan and the Japanese is recognition of its geographical circumstances. The country lies some 160 kilometers off the Asian continent; it comprises four main islands (Honshu, Hokkaido, Kyushu and Shikoku) and over 1,000 small islands which, some 12,000 years ago, separated from the Asian mainland.

      Climate, too, has been a critical factor in shaping the national character. Tokyo may be more southerly than Sicily but because of the workings of the monsoon system, Japan's climate can range from near tropical to sub-arctic, depending on location and season. The resulting diversity of scenery, flora and fauna is part of its attraction and never more so than in spring and autumn.

      The austere elegance of the Daibutsu-den hall of the Todaiji in Nara, the world's largest

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