2008. The makers, Kobayashi Shuzō in Tochigi prefecture, operate on a very small scale and have come up with what must be the ultimate manufacturer’s ruse: they actually get their consumers to pay to help them make the sake. Twice a year, at rice planting time, they invite people from all over Japan to come to Tochigi for a “rice planting festival.” By all accounts, it is a fun occasion and the payment probably barely covers the cost of the free sake that is laid on in the evenings after hard days spent hand planting rice. They do the same at harvest time. Houou Biden is not heat-treated at bottling (namazume, see page 41) and has a pronounced floral, slightly melony aroma with a soft, mild taste. All of Komahachi’s sake is priced between 700 and 900 yen. The food is generally reasonably priced too. The gyū motsu nabe (beef off al nabe, 980 yen for one person) and kabocha āmondo age (pumpkin and almond fry, 580 yen) are favorites with the salarymen who make up much of Komahachi’s clientele.
DIRECTIONS: Mita Station (Toei Mita and Asakusa Lines), Exit A3. Turn left away from the larger road and left again. Turn right at the T-junction and take the third road on the right. The main izakaya is immediately after the slight kink in the road, about 60 yards after you turn. The annex, which specializes in sake, is a few paces down the road to the right, just before the kink.
Kushikoma 串駒 03-3917-6657 www.kushikoma.com
1-33-25 Kita Ōtsuka, Toshima ku, Tōkyō
東京都豊島区北大塚 1-33-25
Open: 6 pm–12 pm; closed Sunday Booking recommended? Yes Credit cards? Most major cards
English menu? No Table charge: 1,000 yen
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