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On the slopes of Park Fell climbing Ingleborough (Chapter 7)
INDUSTRY
In contrast to many of the fastflowing rivers that originate in the Lancashire and Yorkshire Pennines, the Ribble is hardly touched by the industry and conurbation of recent times. The only towns of any size on its banks, Clitheroe and Settle, appear to turn their backs on the river, and even the flourishing city of Preston largely ignores its presence. Things could have been very different, though, for in earlier times the Ribble was both a source of power and a means of transport.
The great abbeys of Fountains and Furness held extensive tracts of land in upper Ribblesdale, and throughout the medieval period wool production, as well as some mining in the surrounding hills, were important industries. Downstream the land came within the influence of the abbeys at Cockersands, Whalley and Hornby, and while sheep again prevailed on the higher ground, cattle, oats and hemp were farmed within the valley. By the 16th century an important linen industry had evolved, later switching to cotton as trade with the New World developed. Fulling and dyeing were cottage industries, carried out in small mills on farms and in villages by rivers, until the mechanisation of the weaving and spinning processes brought the advent of the factory system at the end of the 18th century. The water power of the river fuelled the developing factory system, and the construction of the Lancaster and the Leeds and Liverpool canals helped establish Preston, and even Settle, as industrial centres. Had the Leeds and Liverpool Canal been looped around Balderstone and Whalley, as initially suggested, it would no doubt have spawned a succession of factory towns along the Ribble east of Preston, but in the end the canal followed the Calder valley and Blackburn and Burnley grew as industrial sprawls instead.
The crucial moment of change occurred with the invention of the steam engine. This immediately demonstrated its superiority over the mill wheel and, even better, was not dependent upon the vagaries of the weather. Industry quickly regrouped around the coalfields, and along the canals and expanding railway network, where coal could be delivered relatively cheaply. Many of the early factory sites that were not so well placed gradually faded into obscurity, and consequently, unlike the neighbouring Colne and Calder valleys, that of the Ribble has remained largely rural – not a bad thing at all, and may it always remain so.
WILDLIFE
But although the Ribble valley has remained rural, this does not mean it is a botanical paradise, for intensive agriculture and grazing have marginalised many wildflower species and the insects and other types of life they support. However, numerous stretches in the middle sections of the river are rich in natural woodland, with a few areas demonstrating continuity with the original ‘wildwood’. Here, particularly in spring, a variety of native tree and shrub species, such as oak, ash, alder, beech and hawthorn, shelter an abundance of flowers, while hedgerows and the limestone uplands also support a range of flora. Bluebells, ransoms and primroses are common, while violets, orchids, speedwell, cowslips and campions are among the many others you will spot.
Birds are a constant companion along the length of the path, from those congregating around the coast, to the hill and moorland species that inhabit the higher regions. In winter the marshes attract massive flocks of geese, while gulls are prolific throughout the year. Herons, guillemots, coots, moorhens and, of course, the ubiquitous duck are plentiful. Oystercatchers are common, and lapwing, curlew, plover and snipe haunt the higher reaches. Kingfishers are to be seen along the riverbanks, and in the woods and hedgerows you will find songbirds, many of which are familiar from our gardens. Fox and roe deer roam freely, although they are not always easy to see, for if they sense you first they will disappear quickly into the undergrowth. Should you be about during the late evening, there is also the chance of seeing a badger.
The Ribble is very much a fisherman’s river, noted for its salmon, which in autumn can present a fine spectacle in the shallower sections as they make their way upriver to spawn. Other species are common, too, such as trout and lamprey, and just about every type of coarse fish is present.
PRACTICALITIES
At just over 70 miles (113km) the Ribble Way is one of the country’s shorter ‘long-distance’ walks, and thus an ideal choice for newcomers to long-distance walking. It runs through countryside for virtually its entire length, but the path is rarely far from ‘civilisation’, and only in its higher reaches does it pass through a wild landscape. For the most part it is gently pastoral, although this does not mean that the challenge it offers should be underestimated. Countryside walking can be as physically demanding as hillwalking, particularly after heavy rain or during the summer at the climax of vegetation growth. Substantial boots, waterproofs, appropriate clothing and a comfortable pack are necessities, and gaiters are indispensable on wet days. Shorts are rarely a good idea unless you have hardy legs, and in summer remember to take suncream and a hat. Some route sections offer only limited opportunities for refreshment during the course of the day, unless you make a diversion, so food and drink should be carried, and it is also a good idea to have a small extra ‘emergency ration’ in case of an unexpected delay.
For convenience the route is presented here in seven legs, but the time taken to complete the walk from end to end will depend on personal choice and ability. No stretch of the Ribble Way is overly demanding, and most reasonably fit people should not experience any difficulty in completing a section. However, if you are unused to walking any distance on a daily basis, it is sensible to do some training beforehand.
Accommodation is reasonably scattered along the route, enabling a range of possible itineraries. The accommodation listing in the Appendix is neither exhaustive nor does it imply recommendation, but is provided to assist in planning daily stages for a linear walk. Bear in mind that at weekends, some establishments may not take bookings for a single night, but staying the extra day opens an opportunity to explore the surrounding countryside. Most places can offer an evening meal, or are close to a pub or restaurant, and may be able to provide a lunch pack if you ask in advance. There are four convenient camp sites along the way, but recent years have seen the opening of a small number of bunk houses. Further information is available at local tourist information centres, details of which are also included in Appendix 2.
When to walk the Ribble Way is also a matter of personal choice. Spring and autumn are perhaps the best times of year to enjoy the colours of the landscape, while a good summer can be idyllic. Winters are generally mild, although the higher reaches of the walk are subject to the extremes of British hill weather, and excessive rainfall can be a problem at any time of year. Very heavy downfalls or prolonged wet periods will raise the water level of the river, sometimes to the extent that the path in some of the middle sections becomes impassably flooded.
When planning any long walk it is a good idea to build in some flexibility, and as the countryside surrounding the Ribble Way offers many possibilities for exploration, you will have little difficulty in finding something satisfying to occupy a spare day. The way is also very well suited to day walking, as it enjoys good public transport connections and many sections
