Ridges of Snowdonia. Steve Ashton

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Ridges of Snowdonia - Steve Ashton

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angled screes towards black Llyn Cowlyd. One little jump…

      The summit of Pen Llithrig y Wrach is an unpretentious place. Just a little pile of stones against which to lean a rucsac; and a small field in which to strut and flex your shoulders. There are strange views into Ogwen: of Gallt yr Ogof, unusually dominant; of Moel Siabod, a restive whale; and of Tryfan, pinched up from the valley base like a troublesome pimple. Over there is another land, another day; but the way ahead lies east, instead, along the rim of this more immediate place, more pressing day.

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      Descending Pen Llithrig y Wrach on Route A1. The ridge passes above Craig yr Ysfa (just right of cloud) then ascends to the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn

      The descent to Bwlch y Tri Marchog is a shameful waste when height, so recently won, is lost and must so soon be won again. In a way, Pen yr Helgi Du, this next summit, is the real beginning. Here begin tantalising glimpses towards the buttresses of Craig yr Ysfa and worries about the ridge ahead; while throughout, the looming bulk of Carnedd Llewelyn further belittles your meagre progress.

      Steep and intricate though it is, the descent to Bwlch Eryl Farchog is not so bad at all. The holds are massive. It promotes confidence. Down left is the Ffynnon Llugwy reservoir, its rude access road wiggling behind like a tail on a tadpole. Perhaps here there will also be a few grunting climbers, toiling up the final slope en route for a day – or more likely half a day-on Craig yr Ysfa. There is a cairn at the col – to guide, in mist, the mystified – where winds can spill over into a different valley. Migrating insects collect here at certain times: brought up on a breeze, trapped in eddies, and no doubt wondering – just like the resting walkers – whatever to do next.

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      The ridge of Route A1 crosses Bwlch Eryl Farchog then ascends to Carnedd Llewelyn

      A slender green tongue of ridge ends abruptly at a rock knoll. Luckily, the knoll is an illusion of difficulty, shattered at a closer approach by the appearance of a zig-zag staircase. The path continues beyond by weaving through upright stones and nearing the dust-edged lip of Craig yr Ysfa’s Amphitheatre where, on dry summer days, the rock-walled chute echoes to the urgent calls of climbers informing their partners and everyone else of their every deed and intention. Envy their situation for a moment – and they yours – because there is no time for steep rocks on this walk.

      For such a big mountain, Carnedd Llewelyn takes quite a bit of finding on misty days (one pile of stones can look very much like another when the ground which supports them is a pile of stones itself). Carnedd Dafydd is only half an hour or so away; but the day is already long enough without tacking on any summit-bagging excursions. Yr Elen, too, is left untrodden; but it is no less shapely for it when, on the way north towards Foel Grach, its simple outline materialises beyond the ungainly dome of Carnedd Llewelyn.

      There is a distant sense of return now; an inevitability of success which supercedes even the weariness of a hot afternoon and the slow drag of feet over tufted slopes. Foel Grach is near, but unnecessary; instead the slope falls away to a broad shoulder between friendly Eigiau on one side, and the unknown hollows of Dulyn and Melynllyn on the other. Only a growing awareness of scale allows you to interpret this plateau as a ridge. There, in mist, you might wander for ten minutes in any one direction without noticing a change of slope. On a clear day, though, a distant thin line of crags will betray the edge known to exist above Llyn Eigiau. Here is one last chance to feel rock and sit on summits; and at one minor top, a rare opportunity to retrace the whole walk backwards as far as its misty beginnings on the ridge of Pen Llithrig y Wrach, which is now quite near again – in distance if not in time or recollection. Enough: the lower cwm is already in view, lost in a sea of grass even the dam wall could not restrain.

      VARIANT (A): APPROACH THROUGH CWM EIGIAU

      A gentle valley walk followed by a steep, heathery scramble.

      Distance/Time:

      Reduces overall distance by 2½ km (1½ miles) and saves ½ hour.

      Terrain:

      An easy track, then boulders, culminating in a heather slope crossed by rough paths.

      Main Summer Difficulties:

      Scrambling on a headwall.

      Winter Conditions:

      A notorious slope – not recommended.

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      Feral ponies in Cwm Eigiau (Route A1 (a))

      Special Problems:

      Route-finding on scrambling section.

      Start:

      At the Eigiau dam (723649).

      Finish:

      Bwlch Eryl Farchog (695633) – junction with normal route.

      ROUTE DESCRIPTION

      A faster and scenically different approach to Carnedd Llewelyn can be made by continuing up Cwm Eigiau before striking up to the col between Pen yr Helgi du and Craig yr Ysfa.

      The track from the dam sluice gates continues up Cwm Eigiau – passing numerous quarry tips – as far as a group of ruined buildings below the steep inner flank of Pen yr Helgi Du. Ahead rises the massive Craig yr Ysfa, the stone-filled slot of its Amphitheatre very obvious in the centre and emptying into a broad scree fan.

      The ascent to the col on the left of the crag is not obvious. The easiest way begins first by gaining the foot of the lowest buttress left of the Amphitheatre. The path, certain then to be found, can now be followed up leftwards over heather slopes (undulating at first) until well left of the cliffs. From here it begins to wind up the slope – still trending left and crossing heathery ribs and runnels – towards the col.

      VARIANT (B): DESCENT TO ABER

      A long, undulating ridge descent from Carnedd Llewelyn to the coast.

      Distance/Time:

      Increases overall distance by 7km (4½ miles), adding 1¾ hours.

      Terrain:

      Fast going along good paths and tracks.

      Main Summer Difficulties:

      Length.

      Winter Conditions:

      Tiring under deep snow.

      Special Problems:

      Route-finding in bad visibility.

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      Yr Elen seen from Garnedd Uchaf during the variant descent to Aber (Route A1 (b))

      Start:

      Carnedd Llewelyn.

      Finish:

      Roadhead

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