Saint-Véran
Ristolas
Abriès
Le Roux
Aiguilles
Arvieux
Hotels in France are star-graded according to a system very similar to that used in the UK. Most of the hotels in the area covered by this guidebook carry a one- or two-star grading, which means they are usually reasonably priced, clean and comfortable. Hotels are generally cheaper in France than in Britain. You pay for the room, so there is seldom a reduction if only one person occupies it, although if walking alone always ask for this.
Backpacking and camping
Those intent on backpacking, carrying a tent and cooking equipment, will discover that there are limited possibilities for camping on official sites along the Tour. Wild camping is not encouraged, and certainly in some areas it is severely restricted. During planning it is strongly advisable for potential backpackers to check out current regulations governing wild camping (camping sauvage) within the boundaries of the regional park. Information about the Parc Naturel Régional du Queyras will be found on www.pnr-queyras.com.
In addition to a small, lightweight tent, a closed-cell type of insulating mat or backpacking air-bed and a sleeping bag will be needed. If you are going to cook your own food, the most convenient type of camping stove to use in France during the summer months is one that burns gas. Remember that fuel cannot be taken on board an aircraft, and will have to be bought on arrival in France before commencing the Tour (spare gas canisters may not be available in the small village shops of the Queyras). A small cooking set and lightweight cutlery will also be required. Don’t forget a box of matches or lighter.
It is unwise for backpackers to assume that water from sources in the Queyras is safe to drink (see Water, below). Water taken from streams and other sources should be treated before using (remember that there are many large flocks of sheep in some areas of the park, as well as wild animals – see Wildlife, below). The art of the backpacker is to leave no sign of an overnight camp. Leave no litter and take care not to pollute water sources. Particular care should be exercised with matches and stoves, as forest fires are all too common during the hot, dry summers. Do not light open fires.
Food
At the time of writing, small supermarkets, grocers (épiceries) and/or other food shops were to be found in the following locations on the route of the Tour.
Near to the Montdauphin-Guillestre railway station, Stage 1 and Stage 12
Ceillac, Stage 2
Saint-Véran, Stage 3
Abriès, Stage 7
There were also food shops in Guillestre and Aiguilles, both of which can be reached by detours from the standard Tour.
Mountain peaks, including the pointed Tête de Toillies, from the Col de Saint-Véran (Stage 4)
Shops tend to open earlier than their equivalents in the UK (usually around 7.30–8.00am) and stay open later (often up to 8.00pm), but most will close for two to three hours in the early afternoon. There are very few other possibilities for buying food along the way, although some farms may from time to time offer items such as cheese or honey for sale (but never rely on this). Also, provisions may sometimes be bought from the guardian of a gîte d’étape. It is possible to order packed lunches at many of the gîtes d’étape and refuges en route.
Water
Water sources are found fairly frequently on this Tour, and lack of water should not prove a problem on most stages, although occasionally there are fairly long gaps where water is not obtainable: always plan ahead. There are water fountains in many villages and hamlets, and water bottles should always be filled when the opportunity arises. Temperatures during the daytime can be very high, particularly during July and August, and heat exhaustion and dehydration can develop rapidly when carrying a pack on steep mountainsides. Always make sure that you drink plenty of water.
It is wise to assume that water taken from streams and rivers is potentially unsafe to drink, particularly if there are cattle, sheep or goats in the vicinity. If in any doubt, add a water-purifying tablet to any unboiled water, allowing at least 10 minutes for the chemicals to react before drinking the water. Water labelled l’eau non potable is not suitable for drinking.
Equipment
The most important consideration, always, is to ensure that your pack is as light as possible, without compromising your safety in the mountains. Do not take unnecessary items; nothing spoils a walking holiday more than having to endure the excessive weight of an overloaded rucksack. Those who cannot resist taking a heavy rucksack are recommended to make use of the baggage transfer service (see Baggage Transfer Service, above, and Appendix 3).
During the summer months this region of France usually experiences fairly high temperatures during the daytime, but, at the relatively high elevations found on this Tour, it can become decidedly chilly on cloudy days and once the sun has gone down. For much of the time, shorts and a t-shirt will be fine, but warm clothing must be carried to allow for a possible deterioration in the weather, and for the evening. A waterproof and windproof jacket is essential, and waterproof trousers are recommended. A pair of thin gloves and a warm hat weigh very little, and could save discomfort or worse if the weather turns cold at altitude. Pack a pair of lightweight walking trousers, which can be worn on the occasional cool day or to protect sensitive skin against sunburn, and wear them while relaxing in the evenings.
The glare and heat from the sun can be intense, particularly during July and August and at altitude. A sunhat, high-factor suncream, lip-salve and sunglasses will all help to avoid over-exposure to the sun. To ensure that water is readily available during the day, at least one 1-litre bottle should be carried per person. The screwcap plastic bottles in which mineral water is sold make useful additional water carriers. Some walkers prefer a hydration system with a tube and mouthpiece that provides easy access to water.
Well-worn-in, good-quality boots with adequate ankle support are essential on this walk. Some type of lightweight footwear is also desirable for rest days, for relaxing in the evening and for sightseeing – a pair of good-quality lightweight trainers is recommended. Boots may not be worn inside gîtes d’étape or refuges and are discouraged in most hotels.
The rucksack, the size of which will depend on whether or not camping equipment is to be carried, is probably the most important item of gear. A ‘dustbin liner’ for the rucksack and a supply of plastic bags should keep the contents dry in heavy rain. Perishable food is best kept in a plastic bag to prevent the accidental soiling of the inside of the rucksack.
Walkers on the GR58 heading for the hamlet of Les Escoyères (Stage 2)
A small first-aid kit is important, as there will rarely be an opportunity to buy simple medicines en route. Include plasters, antiseptic cream, safety pins, a small bandage, aspirin/paracetamol, and anti-diarrhoea tablets. Insect repellent may also be useful.
