extended to a week, allowing plenty of time to explore the fantastic island. Both Corrie and Sannox have accommodation, which, if you do choose to spend the night, would allow two days to complete Day 6 Brodick to Lochranza. Catacol or Pirnmill could be reached from either Corrie or Sannox but there is limited accommodation on Arran's western side. There is then very little in the way of accommodation between Pirnmill and Blackwaterfoot. The only place to stay between Blackwaterfoot and Kildonan is the fantastic Lagg Hotel and a night spent here is great. Options then increase at Kildonan, Whiting Bay and Lamlash, as each offers a variety of accommodation and places to eat, meaning the time spent on Arran can be extended to suit.
DAY 1
Glenapp to Ballantrae
| Start | Glenapp NX 074 746 |
| Finish | Kennedy Mausoleum, Ballantrae NX 083 824 |
| Distance | 8½ miles (13.5 km) |
| Time | 4 hours |
| Terrain | This route is on mostly rugged moorland tracks and paths, which can be indistinct on occasion and sometimes boggy. A couple of sections are also quite steep. The initial climb from Glenapp is through forest before farm roads and a short section of pavement beside the busy A77 lead into Ballantrae. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 76; OS Explorer 317 |
| Refreshments | There is a shop and hotel in Ballantrae. |
| Transport | A regular Stagecoach bus from Ballantrae to Stranraer stops at Glenapp. See Appendix C for details. |
The first day of the Ayrshire and Arran Coastal Paths is a short one. Glenapp to Girvan in a single day is feasible but it is long, whereas Glenapp to Ballantrae provides a short but memorable first day and guarantees fresh legs for the longer days ahead. An initial walk through forest climbs onto open moorland above Glenapp. Almost immediately you are struck by the rugged and remote nature of the coast, with much of it well away from any main roads. A good track descends through lovely Currarie Glen and then climbs steeply onto a cliff-top path towards Ballantrae providing magnificent views across Loch Ryan to Galloway and across the Firth of Clyde to Ailsa Craig, Arran, Kintyre and Ireland. Along this section the path becomes indistinct at times but the route is well waymarked when necessary. A singletrack road then passes through some farms (dogs should be kept on leads for the majority of this route) and the day ends at Ballantrae where a stroll around Kennedy Mausoleum is highly recommended. Ballantrae has a shop, a hotel and several B&Bs.
The Ayrshire Coastal Path is a 94-mile route that showcases some of Scotland's finest scenery, but it has a relatively understated start point at the humble surrounds of Glenapp. Consisting of only a few houses and a very fine church, Glenapp nonetheless provides a peaceful backdrop to the route's start and it is a lovely location to begin a long-distance walk.
Glenapp can be reached by either car or bus and although there is a very small car park across the road from Glenapp Church there is room here for only three or four cars, so it is advisable to use the excellent bus service to drop you at the bottom of the lane leading to the church. If you choose to drive, walk from the car park past Old School House and as the road end is reached turn left to cross the A77. If you take the bus, get off at Glenapp Church and simply walk up the track to the church.
GLENAPP CHURCH
Built in 1850, Glenapp Church was originally a chapel-of-ease for the villagers of nearby Ballantrae. Many towns and villages in Scotland at this time had a chapel-of-ease, which were built to solve the problems of worshippers who could not travel to the larger parish churches; the distance and terrain between Glenapp and Ballantrae would have been too difficult for many during the 19th century. With seating for approximately 70, it is one of the smallest churches in Scotland. In 1985 the church became united with the larger church in Ballantrae. Known locally as The Glen Kirk, it is one of the many fine buildings to be found along the Ayrshire coast.
It is a beautiful little building with lovely stained glass windows, one of which commemorates Elsie MacKay, a British actress and member of the Inchcape family (Glenapp is their family seat) who died while attempting to fly across the Atlantic Ocean in 1928. The graveyard also contains the tombstone of her father James Lyle MacKay, the 1st Earl of Inchcape (a title in the peerage of the United Kingdom that was created in 1929). Its elaborate design includes the carved figures of an eagle, owl, lion and tiger. The memorials to the 2nd Earl, Kenneth MacKay and the 3rd, Kenneth James William MacKay can also be seen in the graveyard. The beauty of the church really sets the scene for the walk ahead.
After exploring the church walk back down the path to reach the A77 and, taking care, cross the busy road to reach the start point of the Ayrshire Coastal Path. A good track leads to an old bridge over the Water of App and then descends to another bridge, the track continuing through lovely mixed woodland. It provides easy walking as you pass Craiganlea House on the left, then it bears right at a waymarked sign to climb steadily, passing beneath the slopes of Sandloch Hill.
The Ayrshire and Arran Coastal Paths begin near the attractive Glenapp Church
The superb views continue as you walk north with Arran, Ailsa Craig and Kintyre all visible
As the stony track climbs, go through a wooden gate that takes you above the line of trees. Here the views across Loch Ryan towards Galloway are superb. Corsewall Lighthouse is visible at the northern tip of the Rhins of Galloway peninsula (the southern tip of which is the most southerly point in Scotland) as it guides the ferries travelling to and from Northern Ireland into the loch. The track then continues high onto open moorland, where it may surprise you to find such a wild landscape.
Although the path here alternates between grassy and stony the route makes for easy progress. A fence runs to the left of the path with Finnarts Hill rising beyond it, while the slopes of Sandloch Hill to the right are vibrant with a thick covering of heather during the summer months. As it continues north the track becomes less steep and passes through a wooden gate at an old sheep enclosure, before it reaches another gate.
Go through the gate to continue onto a path that becomes grassier with Penderry Hill rising to the right. Windswept moorland is all around but as two standing stones are passed the views west to Kintyre (and Ireland on very clear days) are superb. It is here that the first real views of the rugged Ayrshire coastline can be enjoyed. As the track descends quite steeply to the north it bears right then flattens out, with gorse bushes to the right and a dry stone dyke to the left, before it passes through another wooden gate.
Two more wooden gates are passed on this track. After going through the second, stick to the main track and ignore the indistinct path descending to the left, which leads to Portandea. Go through two more gates to reach a junction of dry stone dykes. From here the level grassy track leads through mixed trees of hawthorn and gorse and there are expansive views that provide the first look at Ailsa Craig, its wonderful profile a mainstay throughout much of the route.
The wonderful, distinctive profile of Ailsa Craig rises out of the Firth of Clyde, seen here from Ballantrae
AILSA CRAIG
The distinctive cone of Ailsa Craig, which lies some 15 miles off the Ayrshire Coast, rises sharply to over 1100ft in height
