least 1½ litres of water. Camelback type drinking systems are ideal in spring but the drinking tubes are rather prone to freezing in winter.
For one or two day trips a 35 to 40-litre rucksack is big enough. For longer tours a 45 to 55-litre rucksack is better.
Maps
The sketch maps that I have included in this guide are only designed to give an overall view of the layout of the tours and to help with orientation on the relevant topographical map.
Large-scale maps are essential for ski touring as paths, cairns and even sign-posts are generally covered by the snow. Following other people’s tracks is not recommended, unless you are certain that they are going to the same place as you and that the people who made the tracks know what they are doing. In navigational terms, you are on your own!
By far the best and most detailed maps available are the IGN Top 25 series, published by the French national survey at a scale of 1:25,000. There is also a series of 1:50,000 scale maps, published by Didier Richard. Obviously it is cheaper to buy the larger scale maps and they are ideal for planning, but the extra detail provided by the 1:25,000 maps is invaluable should you get caught in bad weather.
Both map series show a selection of ski tours, some of which are included in this guide. The itineraries marked on the topographical maps are indicative only and the routes that I describe are not always the same as those on the maps.
Mountain Huts
This area is very well served by huts. Most of them are run by the French Alpine Club or the Vanoise National Park but there are also a number of private huts.
Inside the Refuge du Fond des Fours
During the winter months there will only be a small part of each hut open and the warden will not be present. These winter huts usually supply blankets, gas, stoves, pans and eating utensils and have a wood burning fire. The only things that you need to bring are food, matches, candles and a torch, and perhaps a sheet sleeping bag for a bit of extra comfort.
This is the case for all the huts used for the tours in this guide, with the exception of the huts used in the Belledonne. These huts are quite rudimentary; they only supply mattresses and a wood-burning stove for heating. It is necessary to take your own stove, cooking utensils and a sleeping bag.
The toilet facilities tend to be very basic or non-existent in winter. To protect what is a very fragile environment it is a good idea to burn your toilet paper or to take it down with you for disposal.
The unrestricted access to these huts is increasingly being called into question because of the thoughtless minority who abuse the system. It is essential to leave the hut in the state in which you would like to find it and to pay for your night’s accommodation. The use of these huts is not free, but rates are very reasonable, usually 10 to 12€ per night. Payment is based on an honesty system; money should be put in the envelopes provided and placed in the letterbox. Without this network of huts, and the facilities they provide, ski touring would be much more uncomfortable. Please, do not be among the selfish few who put this service in jeopardy for everyone else.
Skinning back up to the Refuge du Merlet (Alternative Day 4 of the Belledonne tour)
Descent from the Col du Villonet on Day 6 in the Belledonne with the Puy Gris in the background
Many of the huts are guarded during the spring. In these cases there is a warden present and meals are available, either on a half-board or bed-and-breakfast basis. Half board usually costs around 35€, plus drinks. Occasionally, there is no drinking water available. Either you will have to buy bottled water or melt snow. If you only want to pay for your bed (around 10 to 12€) there is usually a small corner where you can cook, often marked coin hors sac. When you plan to use a guarded hut you should always book in advance, even if it is only by a few hours. If the hut is full and you have not booked, you may be turned away. Huts can be booked by phoning the warden. The current phone numbers for the huts used for the tours in this guide are given in Appendix 2. If you book a place in a hut and you cannot get there, please telephone the warden as this will prevent a lot of unnecessary concern about your safety (and possibly avoid food being wasted!).
Accommodation
As Savoie is a very popular tourist destination there is a wide range of accommodation available. If you want to combine a few days touring with a more traditional resort holiday then it is usually cheapest to go on a package deal booked in the UK.
If you only want to go touring, it is worth staying in the valleys where accommodation is usually cheaper than in the resorts. Another advantage of a valley base is that you can easily change from one area to another for one-day and two-day trips, a real bonus as you will be free to go where the best snow conditions are. This is not such a consideration if you are planning a multi-day trip. In Appendix 3 are listed a few useful publications and the telephone numbers and internet addresses of the main tourist information offices. If you are only planning to spend one or two nights in the valley, the cheapest and often most convenient type of accommodation is in a gîte d’étape. These are similar to mountain huts, but are situated beside roads, and are used to dealing with sporty guests.
Outside the French school holidays it is usually possible to find accommodation without booking. During the holidays (all of February and late March to the end of April) booking is essential to avoid disappointment.
Bad Weather Alternatives
If you are unlucky enough to be faced with a period of bad weather making touring impossible and you have had enough of paying 30€ a day to ski in zero visibility in an overcrowded ski-resort, what else is there to do? The answer depends on the time of year.
In the winter months cross-country skiing or snowshoeing can provide entertaining alternatives. There are some excellent cross-country ski areas in Savoie, often amongst the trees and therefore protected from the worst of the weather. Equipment rental and ski passes are much cheaper than for alpine skiing.
Snowshoeing may look like a very pedestrian sport but great fun can be had in forest areas when there is deep snow and the avalanche risk is too high to venture elsewhere. Snowshoes can be rented in most resorts for as little as 8€ a day. Generally there is no point in following sign-posted snowshoeing trails as the snow rapidly gets compacted by the passage of too many people. Get the map out, use a bit of imagination and you will have an excellent day.
In spring it is often possible to go mountain biking or climbing in the valleys in the sunshine when the mountains are buried in cloud. Otherwise, if the weather forecast is abysmal for a few days, remember you are only about a four hour drive from Provence and its much more clement weather.
For more cultural activities, the cities of Grenoble, Annecy, Lyons and Geneva are all within easy reach.
Using the Route Descriptions
The route descriptions give all the information necessary to follow an itinerary, but it must be remembered that the best line to follow will vary depending on the snow conditions.
Below the Col de Morétan into the Pointe de Comberousse in the background (Day 4 of the Belledonne traverse)
Starting
