The UK's County Tops. Jonny Muir

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The UK's County Tops - Jonny Muir

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native

      Newquay-born poet and writer Sir William Golding (1911–93) is best known for his 1954 novel Lord of the Flies. Sir William, whose other books include the To the Ends of the Earth trilogy, was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1983.

      Interesting fact

      Lizard Point on the tip of the Lizard peninsula – some say the name derives from the underlying rock, serpentine, which when wet resembles the skin of a snake – is the southerly extent of the British mainland.

      Route

      From the car park, cross a stream to reach the moor, where various tracks lead uphill to a trio of tors. Head ESE for the easternmost one, Showery Tor, from where a terrific high route can be negotiated S around rocky outcrops to Little Rough Tor (pronounced ‘row’), and then WSW to Rough Tor. Look W for views of the china clay works at Highertown. From the summit of Rough Tor, head downhill in a roughly SE direction towards the De Lank River which drains Roughtor Marsh. Shortly before reaching the watercourse, a bridleway will be met, which climbs the NW slopes of Brown Willy. A trig pillar and a large cairn stand on the highest point.

      Descent

      Return by the same route to Rough Tor, from where a path leads downhill to Poldue Downs.

      Jamaica Inn

      Bodmin Moor is famously associated with Jamaica Inn, an 18th-century coaching house at Bolventer, off the A30 Exeter–Penzance road. The inn once provided a night stop for travellers, among them smugglers, crossing the moor. Pirates used the inn to secrete goods such as brandy and tea that had been smuggled into Britain. Jamaica Inn, which is now run as a hotel and restaurant, is also reputed to be one of the country’s most haunted places.

      High Willhays 621m SX 5803 8922

Location Dartmoor, 6km S of Okehampton
Start Car park (free) at Meldon Reservoir, SX 5616 9180
OS map Landranger 191 (Okehampton & North Dartmoor), Explorer OL28 (Dartmoor)
Difficulty 3
Enjoyment ****
Distance 10km (6 miles)
Ascent 400m
Time 2–3hrs
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      High Willhays is one of the two UK county tops situated on Ministry of Defence land, although access is less complicated than on Yorkshire’s Mickle Fell, the other summit in a ‘danger area’. The Okehampton firing range, which includes High Willhays, has traditionally been open on weekends and large chunks of the spring and summer, but it is always sensible to check the Dartmoor Training Area website (www.dartmoor-ranges.co.uk) prior to setting out; and do not attempt this route in mist unless competent in the use of map and compass. Dartmoor is also the home of the Ten Tors Challenge, held annually in May and featuring 2400 teenagers who carry all they need to survive for two days and a night on the moor.

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      High Willhays

      Did you Know?

      Famous native

      Diver Tom Daley was born in Plymouth in 1994. In 2009 Daley won Gold at the World Championships in Rome, and at the time of writing is the youngest ever British World Champion in any sport.

      Interesting fact

      Slapton Sands on the south Devon coast was used as a practice area for the D-Day landings by virtue of its resemblance to Omaha Beach. In April 1944 nearly 1000 servicemen were killed here when their convoy was attacked by German torpedo boats.

      Route

      Upon leaving the car park by the toilets, turn left downhill to cross the dam. Turn right along a track on the other side; where that bears sharp left uphill keep ahead on an obvious path that leads along the eastern shore of the reservoir. Pass a footbridge over the West Okement River at Vellake Corner and continue on a path to the E of the river for about 1km. On approaching an area of ancient stunted oak woodland – Blackator Copse, one of three such areas remaining on the moor and well worth a visit – leave the waterside and ascend SE to the rocky outcrops of Black Tor, with High Willhays now lying a little over 1km to the E. Much of the route between the river valley and High Willhays is pathless and careful navigation is required during periods of poor weather; parts are also steep. The summit of High Willhays is marked by a large mound of stone; as such it is not one of the weathered granite outcrops – ‘tors’– for which Dartmoor is famous.

      Descent

      Proceed N along a path to Yes Tor (619m), Devon’s second-highest hill, which is topped by a trig pillar. From the summit, descend moderately steep slopes to the W to meet a path that runs between Black Tor and Longstone Hill. The path dips to the N before plunging W to the reservoir. Cross the dam to return to the car park.

      Other routes

      High Willhays can be climbed via the network of rough non-vehicular military roads to the N and E, and from Okehampton itself.

      The Army and Dartmoor

      The Ministry of Defence uses three areas of the northern section of Dartmoor for training and live-firing exercises. The boundaries of these areas, known as Okehampton, Merrivale and Willsworthy, are shown on OS maps. According to the Dartmoor Training Area website, the moor is seen as an ideal training ground for war because of its ‘remoteness, challenging terrain and changeable climate’. Tanks, however, cannot be utilised because of the boggy terrain.

      Dunkery Beacon 519m SS 8915 4160

Location Exmoor, 9.5km SW of Minehead
Start Dunkery Gate car park (free), off minor Luccombe–Wheddon Cross road, SS 8960 4064
OS map Landranger 181 (Minehead & Brendon Hills), Explorer OL9 (Exmoor)
Difficulty 1
Enjoyment ***
Distance 2.5km (1.5 miles)
Ascent 130m
Time 30–40mins
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      The summit of Dunkery Hill, Dunkery Beacon, is also the highest point of Exmoor, a National Park designated in 1954. The hill is easily accessible

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