europaea), great tit (Parus major), treecreeper (Certhia familiaris), woodpigeon (Columba palumbus), bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula), marsh tit (Parus palustris) and blue tit (Parus caeruleus). Also present in the beech forests, but less often seen, are red-breasted flycatcher (Ficedula parva), collared flycatcher (Ficedula albicollis), wood warbler (Phylloscopus sibilatrix), white-backed woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos ssp. lilfordi) and lesser spotted woodpecker (Dendrocopos minor).
Many of the commoner beech forest species can also be seen in the spruce and mixed coniferous forests, along with firecrest (Regulus ignicapillus), goldcrest (Regulus regulus), mistle thrush (Turdus viscivorus), nutcracker (Nucifraga caryocatactes), common crossbill (Loxia curvirostra), black woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) and willow tit (Parus montanus). Then, emerging from the forest belt into the scrub of the sub-alpine zone, you typically encounter dunnock (Prunella modularis), whinchat (Saxicola rubetra), stonechat (Saxicola torquata), ring ouzel (Turdus torquatus) and linnet (Carduelis cannabina). In places you can also find yellow bunting (Emberiza citrinella), goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis) and red-backed shrike (Lanius collurio).
White stork (Ciconia ciconia)
On meadows in the high-mountain treeless zone there are water pipit (Anthus spinoletta), Balkan horned lark (Eremophila alpestris ssp. balcanica) and skylark (Alauda arvensis), while streams are frequented by grey wagtail (Motacilla cinerea) and dipper (Cinclus cinclus), and more rocky terrain by black redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros), northern wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe), alpine accentor (Prunella collaris ssp. subalpina), rock partridge (Alectoris graeca) and wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria).
Finally, you should always keep an eye on the sky overhead where, as well as being able to spot red-rumped swallow (Hirundo daurica), crag martin (Ptyonoprogne rupestris), alpine swift (Tachymarptis melba), raven (Corvus corax) and alpine chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus), there is always a chance of glimpsing a bird of prey. Possible raptors that could be seen in the national park include common buzzard (Buteo buteo), long-legged buzzard (Buteo rufinus), golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), kestrel (Falco tinnunculus), saker falcon (Falco cherrug) and peregrine (Falco peregrinus), as well as the occasional foraging imperial eagle (Aquila heliaca).
Mammals
There have been 63 species of mammal recorded within the national park, including 22 species of bat. There are also 17 species of large mammal, of which 13 species are carnivores. Data from 1999 suggests there are about 60 brown bears (Ursus arctos) roaming within the national park, as well as nine packs of wolves (Canis lupus) totalling about 25 to 30 individuals. Deer are very important prey for the latter, and the national park is home to about 1000–1200 roe deer (Capreolus capreolus) and 400 red deer (Cervus elaphus), although unfortunately the red deer population is declining badly due to poaching. The same is true for the Balkan chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra ssp. balcanica), which now numbers less than 80 individuals. Wild boar (Sus scrofa), on the other hand, seem to be doing well, with a population of 350–400 animals.
Walking Opportunities
The Central Balkan national park has a good network of well-maintained hiking trails, including a section of the E3 European long-distance walking route, which follows the main ridge of the Stara Planina from the Serbian border in the west to Cape Emine in the east. The national park authorities have also established several interpretative routes in the region, as well as a number of special eco-trails. For accommodation within the national park, walkers also have at their disposal 21 mountain huts and several small refuges, not to mention the numerous hotels and guest-houses that are found in settlements around the foot of the mountains.
For the purposes of this guidebook, I have linked together some of what I consider to be the most interesting, picturesque and representative trails, to form four multi-stage walks each with durations of between three and four days (33 to 51km). These walks are not only beautiful mountain routes in their own rights, but the trails have been specifically chosen to take you through the nine nature reserves of the national park, thereby providing the perfect opportunity to discover more about the rich flora and fauna of the region.
Maps
Central Balkan National Park Tourist Map (1:50 000) – a 64 page atlas published by Directorate of the Central Balkan National Park
Troyan Balkan (1:65 000) – published by the Bulgarian mountain rescue service
Sredna Stara Planina (1:100 000) – published by Kartografiya EOOD
WALK 1
The Boatin, Tsarichina and Kozya Stena Reserves
| Time | 42.5km/3 days |
| Distance | 42.5km |
| Height gain | 2110m |
| Height loss | 2050m |
This wonderfully varied walk explores the western part of the Central Balkan National Park, taking in three nature reserves that are rich in flora and fauna. The trail starts off in the ancient beech forests of the Boatin Reserve, a rugged and steeply sloping region formed around the catchment area of the Cherni Vit, whose headstreams lie deeply cut into the northern flank of the mountains beneath Tetevenska Baba (2071m). On the second day, the route skirts the southern edge of the Tsarichina Reserve, renowned for its expansive sub-alpine pastures as well as its coniferous forests. Then, on the third day of the walk, the trail continues its spectacular course along the crest of the Stara Planina, before dropping down north to the village and spa resort of Chiflik. Much of this day you are walking in the Kozya Stena Reserve, a wild region formed around the headstreams of the Beli Osam. The reserve is named ‘the goat wall’, after its most impressive peak, Kozya Stena (1670m), whose northwestern flank forms a dramatic 100m high cliff.
Looking out over the Kozya Stena Reserve (Day 3)
GETTING TO THE START
The starting point for this walk is the tiny village of Divchovoto, which lies about 24km south of Teteven. On weekdays there are three buses daily between the bus station in Teteven (0678-2557) and Divchovoto, currently departing at 11.30am, 2.30pm and 5.00pm. On Saturday there is just one bus at 12.30pm and on Sunday a single bus at 2.30pm. Teteven itself is served by seven buses each day from the tsentralna avtogara (central bus station) in Sofia, at 9.00am, 12.30pm, 2.30pm, 4.00pm, 5.00pm, 6.00pm and 6.40pm.
DAY 1
Divchovoto to Hizha Benkovski
| Time | 5hrs 15mins |
| Distance | 15.5km |
| Ascent | 1235m |
| Descent | 350m |
| Highest point | 1535m (hizha Benkovski) |
The day begins with a gentle climb through the beautiful ancient beech forests of the Boatin Reserve, home to red squirrel, wild boar, red deer and roe deer, as well as carnivores such as brown bear, beech marten, pine marten, badger and wild cat. After crossing the saddle Klimashka Prevlaka, the trail leaves the reserve and drops steadily down into the valley of the Kostina Reka. There then follows a long ascent to hizha Benkovski, with the climb along the valley of the Ravna Reka being particularly steep
