Manifold valley seen from the path to Warslow
THE MANIFOLD VALLEY: AN INDUSTRIAL PAST
The scenery certainly justifies this early decision to eschew the popular Track to gain a mid-height perspective of Ecton Hill. Down in the valley the tightly contorted strata of Apes Tor are clearly seen just above the road. Copper, deposited in vertical pipe veins some 200 million years ago when mineralised fluids surged up fractures in the up-folded limestone, brought considerable wealth, particularly to two landowning families who controlled Ecton’s mining operations at the zenith of their production during the latter half of the 18th century. The Dukes of Devonshire (Chatsworth House, Derbyshire) and the Burgoynes (Sutton Park, Bedfordshire) were the principal beneficiaries. The ore was laundered in the Manifold valley and dispatched on pack mules from Wettonmill Bridge, via Waterslack and Winkhill, to Whiston, beyond Cauldon Low, where a smelt works was established powered by Cheadle coal. The last 100 years since the final demise of the mines has seen a considerable softening of the harsh legacy of spoil and dereliction, the valley stepping back from the limelight of industrial exploitation for good.
Cross a stile onto more open cattle pasture to gain even more open views; the eastern slopes ahead, where hedgerows cling to the line of medieval cultivation terracing, are especially intriguing. The path traces across the pasture, declining to a squeeze-stile beside a wooden field-gate onto the minor road. Go forward up the hill, keeping left at the junction with Cawlow Lane to enter Warslow. At the ‘give way’ sign cross the main road (Leek Road) onto the footway and go left to the junction.
St Lawrence’s Church, Warslow
The tree-sheltered parish church of St Lawrence may be visited ahead beyond a pair of cottages with handsome windows. The church, which dominates the village, has an unusually wide chancel and some William Morris windows; the estate owners, the Harpur-Crewes of Chalke Abbey, had an interest in the Arts and Crafts Movement.
Otherwise turn up right into the upper village passing the popular Greyhound Inn, formerly known as the Greyhound and Hare – at this stage in the walk you might yet consider haring on yourself! The footway leads up past Stacey Close and the access to the large Manifold Primary School. Beyond the little chapel leave the village with a broad verge, taking leave of the main road by forking left into the inviting lane short of the speed limit signs.
Keep forward where the Oils Heath lane breaks left, leading on past a delightfully renovated cottage, which clearly enjoys a sequestered location and a lovely view across the wide Warslow Brook valley. One has the feeling that this enchanting lane should go on and on, but like all good things there is an end (or at least a cause to change direction). Ignore the first stile right, but where the lane swings left go through the squeeze-stile beside a wooden field-gate on the right. Now turn right beside the wall, crossing several old wall foundations and weaving through some gorse to reach the Warslow road again at a wicket-gate.
Turn left, accompanying the road only for a matter of fifty or so metres, stepping off right at the stile beside the wooden field-gate. A green track traverses the rush pasture to slip through a twin stone squeeze-stile between a holding pen and wooden field-gate. With a wall to the left follow the path initially beside open woodland then rough pasture to reach a fence-stile into the moorland enclosure (with brown access land sign). A clear heather-fringed track leads north beside a fence towards the pine copse. Passing a barrier come to a broad turning area from where leads a small spur path left, up through the pines and onto the heather top of Revidge. The white Ordnance Survey column at 400m (1313ft) provides the perfect place to gaze across an ocean of heather moor.
Revidge is a retiring, unsung hero, a viewpoint with the right sort of credentials. True, it is not an all-round panorama, but there is no finer stance or promenade from which to consider the upper Manifold valley. Filling the eastern gaze, a tantalising hillscape includes Axe Edge, the Dowel Dale hills, Sheen Hill and the rich tangle of hills south of Hartington and Hulme End. As a backdrop, the White Peak plateau reaches the far horizon with stretches of the Tissington Trail apparent due east. As like as not your happy deliberations will be solitary, for few walkers pass this way to idle a merry afternoon away, repelled, no doubt, by the thought of disturbance by khaki manoeuvres (see below).
Heather in full bloom on Revidge, looking to Morridge
Rainbow arcs the track leading north off Revidge
Backtrack down to the main track and continue north to where a branch track breaks acutely right, short of a cattle-grid, with a notice warning of MOD vehicles or troops. Follow this track to a hand-gate and galvanised gate with its ‘Hayes Farm’ sign. Leave the track, keeping south with the wall close right. After two stiles reach a wooden footpath sign guiding half-left along the line of a shallow ditch lined with gorse. This leads to a further footpath sign; follow the finger pointing towards ‘Brund and Hulme End’ down to a gate and by the ruins of Hayeshead. The crumbling walls give cause to pause and ponder on the past life of this farmstead. A footpath sign directs to ‘Hulme End’ at the gateway facing the integrated derelict cottage and beneath a giant beech tree. Traverse the damp field diagonally, clipping a projecting wall corner to reach a squeeze-stile beside a wooden field-gate in the far corner.
Pass through the garden of Hayes Cottage via two wicket-gates and along a hedge-line to step down after a wicket-gate and cross a paddock to pass Steps via the red gates. Leave the access track right to a twin stone squeeze-stile; enter pasture once more and aim towards the farm-buildings of Upper Brownhill, a busy livestock farm (plenty of mud potential). Go through the fence-stile short of the farmyard and bear left, rounding the new barn on the left. Continue to a wicket-gate in a fence short of the tall trees. Briefly join the open farm access track, but where the power lines cross, bear off following the power line down to a recessed stile onto the road.
Cross straight over through the gate and traverse the large cattle pasture to a wicket-gate. Keep the fence close left with the shallow valley right. Go through a hedge via a stone stile and across the farm access track through facing light fence-stiles. Look out for waymarking guiding you right of the brook to a stile onto the road beside the large brown ‘Manifold Valley Visitor Centre’ road sign. Turn left and right as into Cawlow Farm, taking the less-than-obvious stile left of the galvanised gate (left) as the large square four-chimneyed farmhouse comes into view right; the adjacent outbuildings have been sensitively converted into holiday lets. Cross the meadow to the stile back onto the Manifold Track and turn left to finish, déjà vu.
WALK 5
Manifold Track and Ecton Hill
| Start/Finish | Hulme End |
| Distance | 8.5km (5¼ miles) |
| Time | 4hrs |
| Terrain | A modestly hilly walk, with two steep ascents and descents, all the time on firm paths; the walk begins and ends with soothing strides along the level trackbed trail. |
| Refreshments | The Manifold Inn at Hulme End and Wettonmill Café |
| Parking | (GR 103593) Hulme End National Park Authority car park (pay and display) and picnic site, at northern end of Manifold Track and former light railway station, now popular cycle hire centre |
Although created as long ago as 1937 the Manifold Track is still one of the prime visitor attractions of the White Peak, and is particularly welcomed by those who have young children in pushchairs or who are confined to wheelchairs or lack the vigour of their youth. Hulme End, the former terminal of the Leek and Manifold Light Railway, provides the perfect springboard not merely to sample the Track but also to explore Ecton Hill with its heritage of copper mining.
