The view from Saint-Véran
The village is a very good centre for Alpine walking, as there are no less than four high cols accessible on foot, and it is interesting to try to locate their position from the high street. Two are crossed on this Tour of the Queyras, namely Col de Bramousse and Col des Estronques. The other two, Col Fromage to the north and Col Giradin to the south, are both situated on the GR5.
The trek east to Saint-Véran offers the opportunity to climb a small peak, the 2757m Tête de Jacquette, from Col des Estronques. From the summit, sightings of some of the 3000m giants of the region will be made in clear conditions: Monte Viso (Monviso in Italian) (3841m), Visolotto (3348m) and Le Grand Queyras (3114m), all superb mountains that will be seen at closer quarters in a few days’ time. The next objective, the village of Saint-Véran, is also visible on the opposite side of the valley below.
Saint-Véran, at 2020m, has the distinction of being the highest continuously inhabited community in Europe. The population in 2000 was 271, but at its peak in the early 19th century it stood at 865 souls. The village today depends largely on tourism, and the ski trade in particular, for its survival. Nevertheless, it has resisted the more garish developments that mar so many French ski resorts, and still retains the air of a simple mountain village. Much of the building is in wood, and the houses are constructed in such a way as to avoid being in each other’s shade. This makes full use of the warmth from the sun, so important at this altitude. The church is an interesting, ornate building containing several gilded figures of the saints. Opposite the main entrance is another finely decorated ‘carpenter’s cross’.
The Queyras is well known for its sundials (cadrans solaires), several of which will be found in Saint-Véran, painted on the south-facing walls of a number of buildings. Perhaps the finest is that on the wall of the church. Notice that the time indicated is nearly always an hour or more ‘slow’. Perhaps the local time, when these sundials were painted several centuries ago, was different from modern French summer time?
Refuge Agnel and Le Pain de Sucre
The next day penetrates into the heart of the Queyras along the ‘Grand Canal’ route, which follows the course of an old, but now dry canal used in the days of copper and silver mining in the valley in earlier centuries. For the first time this Tour exceeds 3000m, if you choose to ascend Pic de Caramantran. The route also has the distinction of reaching the highest col on any standard GR trail in France, the Col de Chamoussière at 2884m, although this will be of little concern to the wayfarer, who will be far more interested in the area’s magnificent rock scenery. One of the most striking mountains in the whole region, the 3175m Tête de Toillies is on view for much of today’s ascent. This imposing Matterhorn-like peak, which sits on the Franco-Italian border, provides challenging sport for rock climbers from all over the world.
Walkers at the Col de Saint-Véran
The Grand Queyras, seen from the path between Col de Chamoussière and Col de Saint-Véran
After four days carrying a pack over steep mountain passes, it’s a good idea to give the shoulders and back a rest and have a day off in the high mountains. Refuge Agnel is perfect for such a day as it is situated at high altitude, in stunning surroundings, with some of the best peaks easily accessible, and there is a variety of walking excursions available in the area. Moreover, if not too crowded the refuge is a pleasant place to stay awhile; sunsets can be spectacular. Having a complete rest day would be pleasant enough, but for the more energetic and adventurous an ascent of Le Pain de Sucre (3208m), the French ‘Sugar Loaf’, can be made. This is the highest point reached by any of the ascents on the whole tour and, if you do it, will be the first time that you get to over 10,000ft. Although the peak appears quite formidable, under good conditions the practised hillwalker used to scrambling and a little exposure should experience few problems, provided the waymarked route is followed to the top. It’s a fairly easy, albeit steep scramble to the summit, although the inexperienced are better advised to admire the peak from afar.
Into Italy
From Refuge Agnel the border is soon reached at Col Agnel, thought by scholars to be one of the possible crossing places used by Hannibal and his elephants on their journey over the Alps into Italy. After a long descent to the south down the Vallone dell’Agnello, the route changes direction to climb, gradually at first, up the isolated and lovely Soustra valley. After a stiff climb to an Italian ridge at the Passo della Losetta, there’s an optional ascent of Pointe Joanne, another stunning high viewpoint.
The highlight of this part of the journey is the close-up view of the northwest face of Monte Viso, almost 1000m of very steep rock. This really is an impressive mountain that deserves to be better known outside the region, for it ranks amongst the most spectacular of Alpine peaks. Standing alone, wholly in Italy, it towers above all other peaks in the vicinity. Monte Viso (Monviso) is seen to best advantage from the balcony path between Passo della Losetta and Col de Valante. France is re-entered at this col, with a night spent at the Refuge Baillif-Viso, from whose balcony spectacular views of Monte Viso are again on offer. From the refuge, Italy is re-entered at Col Sellière for an excursion in the Pellice valley beneath another giant of the region, the 3166m Monte Granero.
For those with less time there’s a shorter option – wholly within France – from Refuge Agnel, via picturesque Lac Egourgéou, with an opportunity to reach the summit of Pic de Foréant, another giant of more than 3000m, much less climbed than the neighbouring Pain de Sucre, but an equally fine viewpoint. The trail leads down to the small village of l’Echalp, where the food in the Seven Degrees East gîte d’étape is to die for (be sure to ask for their blueberry pie). The Italian and French routes eventually reunite in the pretty hamlet of La Monta, from where once again there are two alternative routes, a high-level or low-level option. Those wanting a demanding high-level traverse choose the Sommet de la Lauzière route, again with peakbagging opportunities; those with scrambling ability can tackle the towering 2929m Tête du Pelvas above the Col d’Urine – yes, it means the same in French! But equally good is a gentle stroll down the attractive Guil valley from La Monta via the village of Ristolas to the veritable metropolis of Abriès.
Abriès via Malrif and Souliers back to the Durance Valley
The Tour continually offers alternative routes, and it is often difficult to choose as most are so delectable. Another major decision has to be made on leaving Abriès. Either take the direct standard route via Lac de Grand Laus, a high Alpine lake hemmed in by an impressive cirque of mountains, or the longer and more demanding variant via Col de Thures and Col de Rasis, the latter at 2921m being the highest col on the entire Tour, less than 80m below the magic 3000m mark. Both routes come together at Pic du Malrif, the highlight of the day’s itinerary, a fine perch from which to admire the snow-capped giants of the Écrins National Park to the west: Mont Pelvoux, Barre des Écrins and La Meije. There’s only one place to spend the night, the gîte d’étape in the upland summer pasture of Les Fonts de Cervières. But if the Ritz itself were on offer, it could not compare with this engaging hamlet; and the food … oh, the food!
Strong walkers could manage the next stage to Brunissard in one long day, but to do so would rather miss the point of the Tour of the Queyras, which is the opportunity to explore the many side valleys and peaks of this delightful region. Instead, the stage can easily be broken at Souliers, where another feast awaits the guest at the village gîte, after which a day can be enjoyed picnicking
