sublimely beautiful islands. Some of the walks included here have not appeared in any previous guide: none of them with the Ordnance Survey route maps and detailed route descriptions in this guidebook. These are mostly demanding routes in terms of the terrain, length of route or both. The terrain covered is extremely varied, often challenging and mostly without waymarks or established footpaths. But the rewards are plentiful, as these routes traverse some breathtakingly beautiful scenery alive with a profusion of plants and wildlife and full of historical interest.
Maps
Climbing above the cliff tops at Sgorr Reidh (Walk 3, Day 2)
It is essential that you have the appropriate maps for the walks described in this guidebook. There are few waymarks, signposts or paths of any kind, making accurate route finding all the more important. A degree of navigational proficiency is indispensable.
This guide incorporates Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 mapping with highlighted routes. These should be used in conjunction with OS Explorer 1:25,000 maps because of their greater topographic detail. Do not rely solely on the maps in this guidebook as it is essential that you are able to ascertain your position in the wider context, should you need to abandon your walk and make for the nearest road or habitation. The walks described in this guidebook are covered by the following Ordnance Survey maps:
OS Explorer 1:25,000 sheet 397 Rum, Eigg, Muck, Canna and Sanday
OS Explorer 1:25,000 sheet 372 Coll and Tiree
OS Landranger 1:50,000 sheet 39 Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna
OS Landranger 1:50,000 sheet 46 Coll and Tiree
A compass is indispensable and a ‘wristwatch’ altimeter is also very useful for navigation, especially on the hills of Rum. It’s not quite so easy to get lost when walking along the island coastlines, but it is important that you know exactly where you are, especially in poor weather or visibility and if for any reason you need to head inland from the coast.
Access
The Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 established legal right of non-motorised public access over most land and inland water in Scotland. The Act is supported by the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. In effect, the Act means that walkers have the right to roam, but should exercise that right in ways which are compatible with land management needs. Forestry, deerstalking, grouse shooting, lambing and other farming and crofting practices are the activities most liable to restrict walkers’ movements. This is as much the case in the Hebrides as in the Highlands.
Except around Kinloch on Rum there is precious little forestry in the Small Isles, Coll and Tiree. Rum is also the only island with a deer population and, consequently, deerstalking. The stalking season runs from mid-August to mid-February: if you plan to walk on the island during this period it is advisable to contact the Head Stalker, Derek Thomson, on 01687 462030 or 07768 249833. Between March and May it is important to avoid disturbing sheep during lambing. Avoiding interference with other farming and crofting practices is usually accomplished with minimal inconvenience.
Wild camping is permitted but please check the Outdoor Access Code for information about your rights and responsibilities (www.outdooraccess-scotland.com). For more on camping on Rum see Appendix B.
Looking down to Harris Bay from the summit of Barkeval (Walk 1)
Safety and emergencies
In fine weather the Inner Hebrides can seem like an earthly paradise; however the onset of high winds and driving rain can rapidly make the place feel quite hellish, especially if you are exposed to the elements. It is essential that you are properly equipped and are able to navigate proficiently in poor visibility. Check the weather forecast before setting out and allow yourself plenty of time to complete your day’s itinerary during daylight. Always let someone know your intended route and estimated time of completion.
Carry a first aid kit, survival blanket, mobile phone and plenty of food. Wear at least one item of high-visibility clothing. A whistle and/or torch are important for attracting attention in case of injury. Six blasts on the whistle or six torch flashes should be repeated every minute. In case of injury or other incident, try to stay calm and assess your situation. If anyone is injured remember ABC – airway, breathing, circulation (signs of life, blood loss). Make any casualties warm and comfortable and place any unconscious casualties in the recovery position.
Try to ascertain your exact position on the map and consider your options for walking to safety, finding shelter, staying put or seeking help. (Remember that it may take an emergency team some hours to reach you, especially in poor conditions in a remote area.) If you decide to call for help, phone 999 and ask for the Police and Mountain Rescue. Be ready to give the location of the incident (grid references, map sheet number, name of the area and description of the terrain), number and names of people in the party and their condition, any injuries and names of casualties. Be prepared to supply the numbers of any phones carried by the party, and describe the nature and time of the incident, weather conditions including wind speed and visibility at the incident site, equipment at the site, including warm clothing and shelter, distinguishing features and markers at the site, and the location from which you are phoning if different from the incident site.
Heading east along the Kinloch Glen track (Walk 7)
Some of the walks described here are challenging and best not attempted on your own. Likewise, these routes should only be undertaken by fit and experienced walkers and are not suitable for the very elderly, very young or anyone carrying an injury. Only fit, properly equipped, experienced hillwalkers with good navigation skills should attempt a round of the Rum Cuillin – and then only in good conditions. The weather can change very rapidly in this maritime mountain environment. The terrain is difficult in places and visibility can be lost with little warning.
After heavy rain or snowfall many burns and rivers run very high, with a terrific volume of fast-moving water. This is especially the case on mountainous Rum. Do not attempt to cross rivers in spate – if you are swept away your chances of survival are very small. If you're successful in crossing one river in such conditions you may come up against an impassable torrent further on; if you then attempt to recross the river you previously crossed, you may find that it is running higher and faster than before.
What to take
OS Explorer 1:25,000 maps are indispensable (a waterproof map case is advisable), as is a compass. A ‘wristwatch’ altimeter is also very useful. A robust rucksack with adequate capacity and a comfortable harness is indispensable, as is a waterproof pack liner. For day walks, a 30+ litre pack should be sufficient; for longer trips, when you are carrying camping gear and several days’ food, a 60+ litre pack may be required. Effective waterproofs are essential when undertaking a walk of any length in the Hebrides. Weather can change quickly on the islands and doesn’t always obey the forecasts.
Campfire at Harris Bay (Walk 3 Day 2, Walk 7)
Lightweight, ‘wickable’, quick-drying clothing is a must when walking the often strenuous routes in this guide. Carry adequate warm clothing: extra layers are useful when you take breaks. The nature of much of the terrain – on Rum, Eigg
