Tour of the Matterhorn coincides with two other long-distance treks. From Zermatt to Arolla it follows the Walker's Haute Route Trail, and from Breuil-Cervinia to Grächen it takes the Tour of Monte Rosa. Those wishing to do these treks at some future date may wish to miss out these sections, but there are variations for some parts so doing the stages twice may give a chance to cover all options.
Whilst the treks in this region are becoming more popular they have not achieved the fame of the Tour du Mont Blanc, and are unlikely to do so, being rather more arduous and involving more complicated terrain. On many parts of the tour you will experience relative solitude and can expect to see plenty of wildlife.
So, where to start? Since it's a circular tour, theoretically it can be started anywhere along its length, but clearly some places are easier to get to. It is usually nice to start and finish somewhere accessible transport-wise, where you can leave excess gear, buy picnic food and celebrate at the end. To my mind it's good to do this tour with views of the Matterhorn at the start and finish, so the route is described from Zermatt. The French information recommends starting from St Niklaus or Gruben-Meiden, but do you really want to start and finish a trek when the main feature is out of sight?
Next decision – which direction to go in? It's generally done anticlockwise, and since I can't think of any reason not to go this way that's what I've described. It seems to work that way, and also means that the highest altitude comes at the end when you're fully acclimatised.
The Region
The Matterhorn is situated near to the Mischabel and Monte Rosa massifs in the Pennine Alps, bordering southern Switzerland and northern Italy. Extending eastwards from the Col Ferret to the Simplon Pass this huge range contains the largest concentration of peaks over 4000m in Europe. The Swiss–Italian frontier forms the Alpine watershed and the most grandiose summits are to be found here, their huge glaciers snaking down into the valleys, on the Swiss side flowing down to the Rhône, on the Italian side draining to the Po.
The enormous barrier of the Pennine Alps represents the pressure zone created when the African tectonic plate collided with the Continental plate. Mountains were forced up and consequent erosion has produced the incredibly spectacular scenery that exists today. Peaks such as Liskamm, the 10 summits of Monte Rosa, the Täschhorn, Dom and Weisshorn (to mention just a few), whilst slightly less lofty than their famous neighbour Mont Blanc, are at least equal in grandeur and splendour.
The Tour of the Matterhorn owes much of its variety and interest to the fact that it visits two distinct regions: the Swiss region of Valais/Wallis and the Italian Valle d'Aosta. Although these two regions are physically close and have a shared history of trade, agriculture and simple survival in this harsh mountain environment, there are many contrasts of culture, architecture, food, language and traditions. Passing from one country to the other you will be struck immediately by the differences in landscape, architecture and farming methods before you even hear any language spoken.
Taking a break before descending to Zinal (Stage 3)
Walking through the mountains and the valleys, and passing through the villages, will give you a chance to discover what makes each valley unique, as well as experiencing the common cultures that unite the region.
Ancient Passes
Many of the trails used by the Tour of the Matterhorn have been used for centuries for many different purposes. Before motorised transport it was often easier to go over the high mountain passes than to descend to the main valleys such as the Rhône and Aosta. Frequently the mountain valleys were rendered impassable by deep gorges, or were prone to rockfall or landslides. Whilst the high passes carried their own risks – such as bad weather, cold, exhaustion, and attack from marauders – they were usually more direct and less tortuous.
There were abundant reasons for wanting to travel from one valley to the next:
Trade: in times past people bartered goods rather than dealing in money. Goods that were needed in the Alps included salt and spices, so the mountain people would take their own goods to trade. The wines from the Aosta Valley were sent over to the Valais and Tarentaise by the so-called Route des Vins (which went from Chambave to the Rhône Valley, probably across the Theodul and Collon passes).Male ibex jostle for dominance on rocks near Trift
The farmers would take their cattle over into neighbouring valleys to graze as part of the transhumance method of farming.
People travelled surprisingly long distances for work; for example, much of the Alpine architecture in Switzerland is based on the work of Italian builders from the Valsesia region, near Alagna.
Sometimes people needed to migrate because they had too many enemies in their native valley, or conditions had made survival there untenable.
One very interesting fact that has emerged from the passage of populations over high passes is that in the Middle Ages the Alpine climate was certainly warmer by degrees than it is today. The Theodulpass, for example, would seem to have been a major route in Roman times, and given the artefacts found there must have been less glaciated than it is today. There have certainly been periods of warmer climate in the past.
Despite these warmer phases, other periods saw mini ice ages; and the vagaries of Alpine weather meant that any excursion into the hills brought with it a risk of bad weather, not to mention illness or even attack. These people really had to want to make the journey, and often not from choice; their lives depended on it.
History tantalises us with fascinating stories about these travels – fortunes lost, treasures found, lives risked. Now as we trek through these mountains, generally comfortable in our high-tech gear and with well-filled stomachs, it's interesting to try to imagine the trepidation that travellers hundreds of years ago would have felt before setting out on these highly risky ventures. The frequent presence of chapels and crosses en route attests to the need to put their lives in God's hands. Hence on several cols in the Alps – such as the Grand St Bernard, Petit St Bernard and Simplon – we find hospices, erected by religious people to provide safe haven for those poor souls in need of food, shelter or security whilst trying to get to the next valley.
Glaciers
Heading up the Haut Glacier d'Arolla en route to the Col Collon (Stage 5)
Glaciers and glaciated mountains are a major feature of the Tour of the Matterhorn, both in terms of the views enjoyed and the terrain encountered. The valleys have been carved out by the ice, and many people now come to the Alps to marvel at what remains of these huge frozen rivers.
THE THEODULPASS (3301m)
This pass is one of the most famous in the western Alps. In Roman times it was called ‘Silvius’, and it is documented as early as AD3.
In 1895, 54 coins dating from 2BC to AD4 were found just below the col, and these are now in an archaeological museum in Zermatt. It must certainly have been hotter and drier in those days, since artefacts attest to the passage of the col on foot and on horseback. There was a small settlement on the col providing provisions and guided passage. From the 5th century onwards winters became more rigorous and the glaciers began to expand. Commercial caravans abandoned the route, but from the 9th century the glaciers regressed and there was
