of the Karavanke chain, and thus the start of our journey along the frontier between Slovenia and Austria. On its top meet not only the borders of Slovenia, Italy and Austria, but also the three great linguistic traditions and cultures of Europe – the Germanic, Romance and Slavic. It was here in 2004 that representatives of the three governments of Italy, Austria and Slovenia met to welcome Slovenia into the European Union.
From the bus stop/car park in Rateče, walk along the road past the small Mercator supermarket and the ancient church of St Thomas. Continue on to the village centre with its café, and then turn right, seeing ahead of you a building with a sign on it saying ‘Tromeja, 2hr’. Walk up this lane and cross a little river just before arriving at a track heading off right between two houses, signed Tromeja. Walk between farm outbuildings to a fork where you follow the stony right-hand path, again signed Tromeja. Walk up the tree-lined track for about 10min, to emerge on a forest road opposite a field. Turn right, and follow the gravel forest road as it ascends for about 2km.
Looking south to the western peaks of the Julian Alps from the forest break line
After about 2km, notice a sign for Dom Tromeja (1145m) 250m pointing to the right – a small diversion for rest and refreshments. The route continues up the forest road, and very soon reaches a sharp right-hand bend. A sign directs you onto a path climbing into the forest – this is the Krajša pot, which you should follow.
Alternative
It is also possible to continue up the road on the Daljša pot; this way is less steep but also less interesting. To follow this route, simply walk up the forest road, and take the left, upper fork after about 600m. Continue up this forest road for a further 2.5km or so to the summit.
The final section of the Krajša pot is quite steep, zigzagging up through the forest just to the right of a break line of open land about 30m wide, which marks the border between Slovenia and Italy. The path weaves in and out of the forest, so at each alternating hairpin you see more and more of the stupendous view of the western Julian Alps opening out behind you.
Arrive at a small locked wooden hut next to a large antenna mast. Benches and a relief map of the Julian Alps stand just outside. A short walk from the hut brings you to the summit of Peč/Tromeja (1508m) just a few metres beyond a wooden fence line. A set of signposts covered with a wooden shingle roof marks the top. The forest which covers the Slovene side has given way to the small ski resort of Dreiländereck, near Arnoldstein– on the Austrian side.
Looking east along the Karavanke from the summit of Peč in winter
The Karavanke mountain chain stretches away to the east and the view into Austria is extensive. Directly opposite is Dobratsch (2166m) with its 165m high TV transmitter close to its summit. Wörthersee, a lake near Klagenfurt, is visible in the distance about 30km away. There is a very marked difference between the high but comparatively rounded hills of this part of Austria and the steep bare limestone peaks of the Julian Alps.
The return route takes the same path.
Haflinger ponies grazing the summit slopes of Peč at sunrise
MONUMENT OF PEACE
There is a monument just below the summit on the Slovenian side with text in Italian, Slovene and German, built in 1994. It says:
TROMEJA
The Mountain of Peace by Šri Činmoj
Mountains are a symbol of peace, tranquillity and inner depth. Mankind needs all these virtues on its way to growing worldwide harmony.
“FINDING ONE’S INNER PEACE IS MAN’S GREATEST NEED.”
May this monument to understanding and friendship among nations be erected at this important meeting point of three great language groups and cultures.
Tromeja has become a link in the chain of several hundred different monuments dedicated to peace. There are buildings, mountains, bridges, cities, parks and natural phenomena which should encourage harmonious co-existence of people and nations, improve harmony and help to overcome both inner and outer borders.
PEACE DOES NOT ONLY MEAN NO WAR. PEACE MEANS THE RULE OF HARMONY, LOVE, SATISFACTION AND UNITY.
(Šri Činmoj, translated by Rosvita Veselic)
WALK 2
Trupejevo poldne and Vošca
| Start/finish | Tourist information office, Kranjska Gora |
| Distance | From Kranjska Gora 21km; from Srednji Vrh 12km |
| Total ascent/descent | 1315m |
| Grade | 2 |
| Time | 7–8hr |
| Maps | Kranjska Gora 1:30,000 |
These two hills give an exhilarating walk along a quieter section of the Western Karavanke, less frequented than the more popular summits of Stol, Vajnež and Golica above Jesenice. If you have a car, an hour or so can be saved at the start and finish of the walk by driving up to the hamlet of Srednji Vrh. If starting from Kranjska Gora the two hills combined give a long trek, so make sure your fitness is not in question. Either hill can be done as a separate walk by simply retracing the route from the summit should you consider it too long a day.
From Kranjska Gora tourist information office turn right along the pedestrian road past the church until you reach the Hotel Kotnik where you turn left. Pass the Sports Hall and Culture Centre and at the next T-junction turn right. Continue for another 200m, passing a bus stop to reach a crossroads. Walk straight ahead past the shopping centre for another 100m, then bear left to cross the main Sava valley road at a zebra crossing and enter the small residential area of Čičare.
Continue straight ahead for 100m, then take a left fork past the Suite Hotel Klass. Within another 100m reach a small bridge over the Sava. Cross it, and turn immediately right along a path with the river to your right and a grassy meadow to your left. The path soon bears left to follow the length of the narrow meadow, passing a hayrack along the way. A freestanding rack with horizontal wooden beams for drying hay, these hayracks are a typical Slovene landmark. At the end of the meadow enter woodland and follow the bank of the river, taking care here as the path is narrow and badly eroded in places. Soon arrive at another small meadow just below a wooden pasture building. Continue along the path with the river occasionally visible, but always within earshot, to your right, and after 10min pass another small wooden structure used for storing hay for animal feed. A few more metres brings you onto a broad gravel track, where a bridge can be seen crossing the river to the right. Continue straight ahead on the level track until, within another 10min, the track begins to ascend as it passes a small hydroelectric power station where the lively Jurežev stream meets the valley floor and feeds into the Sava river. Just beyond this pass a pretty weekend cottage with a working waterwheel. Continue to ascend the path through the trees for another 15min to emerge from the wood onto an open meadow at the bend of a broad stony track. Continue up the track across the attractive planina carpeted with flowers, and on through a gate, before passing an ornate painted shrine. Just beyond this pass a farmstead (note this is also the return route) and reach the tarmac lane that runs through Srednji Vrh.
