the upper reaches of the glens – cloaked in crags and cliffs – remain hostile and rugged, the gathering of sediment over thousands of years created fertile plains lower down the valleys. These were settled by early farmers. While Neolithic sites and several Iron Age earth houses have been found, most of the archaeological remains uncovered date from medieval or later times. Early evidence of farming includes turf dykes and the ruins of shielings (small stone-built cottages located on higher pasture). Rig and furrow, a traditional system of cultivating land practised until the mid-19th century, is evident across the area.
In the 1850s, in common with much of the Scottish Highlands, families were cleared from the land to make way for large sheep farms and the population fell sharply. The glens continue to support agriculture and communities, albeit on a much smaller scale than once was the case.
Between this flat land and the mountain peaks and plateaus above, the moors may at first glance appear wild and untamed but this belies the heavy influence of man. Vast areas of land are managed for sport – grouse and pheasant shooting, deer stalking and fishing the main activities. Alongside farming this is the mainstay of the local economy. Heather burning, vermin control, the construction of hill tracks and the retention of remote cottages and lodges are just a few of the ways these sporting activities impact on the lie of the land.
Where ground has been deemed unviable for either farming or sport, commercial forestry has taken root. Glen Clova (including Glen Doll), Glen Isla and Glen Prosen all have extensive plantations while, over recent years, concerted efforts have been made to restore native woodlands.
Wildlife
The Angus glens are home to an array of wildlife. However, some species are much more likely to be spotted by walkers than others. In the hills and valleys, red and roe deer are common. While reds tend to roam the hills and glens in sizeable herds, roes are more solitary creatures, often spotted on the fringes of woodland or lurking in undergrowth. Occasionally they will stray onto open ground or flit over roads.
On the high ground mountain hare are a frequent sight while rabbits are endemic, often sharing rough pasture with sheep, cattle and opportunistic carrion crows. Rabbits offer rich pickings for stoats and foxes. Unlike rabbit and brown hare, mountain hare are indigenous to Scotland.
Sheep – one of the main sources of income for Angus farmers – are found on low and high ground while cattle – including the distinctive shaggy Highland cow – tend to occupy fields down in the valleys.
An iconic Highland cow resting by Buckhood Cottage, Glen Prosen
Forests offer a safe haven for the increasingly threatened red squirrel. Thanks to its relative isolation, Glen Doll has a stable population of around 100 and colonies also exist in the other glens where grey squirrels – the biggest threat to the reds – have yet to gain a foothold.
The woodlands of Glen Doll in particular are home to the pine marten which, although rare, has benefited in recent years from measures to conserve its habitat. A cat-sized member of the weasel family, the pine marten thrives in rocky woodland terrain and is most often sighted at dawn or dusk. It is, however, very wary of humans and will disappear in an instant.
The field vole, wood mouse and hedgehog are among smaller mammals that may be seen on lower ground while otter, bank vole and water vole live around rivers, streams and lochs. Healthy populations of otter have been recorded along the length of the River South Esk. Water vole numbers, however, are less stable. Once plentiful, this native species has been decimated by invading American mink, first imported into Britain in the 1920s and farmed for fur. However, conservation work, particularly in Corrie Fee, has seen some recovery in water vole numbers while mink trapping – designed to protect ground-nesting birds and their eggs – is an integral part of land management.
The most elusive creature in the Angus glens is the Scottish wildcat. Using concealed camera traps, the Cairngorms Wildcat Project has confirmed sightings in Glen Clova while reports suggest small populations in the other Angus glens.
The only venomous snake walkers may encounter is the adder. Relatively common on heather moor and around the fringes of woodland, they are most frequently spotted in hot weather sunning themselves on rocks or lying across paths. The adder has a distinctive dark zigzag running down the length of the spine and an inverted ‘V’ shape on the neck. Males are generally white or pale grey with a black zigzag while females are a pale brown colour, with a darker brown zigzag. Adders are not aggressive, but if bitten by one seek medical assistance as soon as possible.
Atlantic salmon and sea trout migrate up the rivers of Angus. The River North Esk and River South Esk are both popular with anglers, while inland lochs and reservoirs are renowned for their brown trout.
Birds
Red grouse are bred for sport throughout the glens and will pop up out of the heather when least expected while another game bird, the pheasant, is most likely to be spotted in fields, woodland, or dodging traffic on the roads. On rocky summits and slopes, ptarmigan are more elusive. In winter they are completely white, while in summer only the wings remain white. The best time to spot them is early spring, before their winter plumage is lost.
Golden eagle, peregrine falcon and raven all breed on crags and may be seen soaring above cliffs and rocky slopes. Corrie Fee, Glen Doll and the valley of the River South Esk below Bachnagairn are particularly good spots for sightings. The buzzard is the most prevalent bird of prey in the glens and may be seen flying over both low and high ground.
At the other end of the spectrum, the white-tailed eagle (also known as the sea eagle) is an occasional visitor thanks to an ongoing reintroduction project at Tentsmuir Forest, Fife, 40km to the south. The osprey, which returns annually to nesting sites in the neighbouring county of Perthshire, has been recorded fishing lochs and reservoirs in Angus.
Coniferous plantations are home to the great spotted woodpecker (more frequently heard rather than seen), plus the common crossbill and the smallest of all European birds, the goldcrest. Woodlands are also good places to spot the willow warbler, cuckoo, jay, jackdaw, siskin, chaffinch and various tits, including the coal tit, great tit and blue tit.
On rough pasture and heathland oystercatcher and curlew are common, while Angus is a breeding stronghold for the ring ouzel, similar in size to a blackbird but with a distinctive white chest ring and longer wings and tail.
Plants and flowers
Scots pine trees in Glen Lee (Walk 26)
While the ancient glens were once heavily wooded, the hand of man has seen intervention both detrimental and beneficial to the natural landscape over the centuries. Our Neolithic ancestors cut much of the original timber down, creating arable fields and grassy pasture in lowland areas while much of the higher ground ended up as open moor. Trees returned in the form of sizeable commercial plantations while in more recent times there has been a concerted effort to both plant and encourage the natural regeneration of native species such as rowan, beech, birch and ash, a step towards redressing the balance. Airy woodlands of Scots pine and larch provide a welcome breather from more densely packed forests of spruce and lodgepole pine.
Large tracts of moor are managed for shooting, resulting in a patchwork of heather and grass. Grazing by sheep, cattle and deer restrict plant diversity here. Tussocks of hare’s-tail cotton grass grow in all but the wettest areas, while cross-leaved heath and crowberry are widespread. Gorse and broom add a splash of yellow during the summer while bracken provides valuable cover for birds
