Monega Road is the highest of the Mounth Roads linking Angus and Aberdeenshire. Unlike many of Scotland’s ancient highways and byways, it crosses a mountain plateau rather than passing through a valley, making it a serious and potentially dangerous proposition for early travellers, particularly during the winter when heavy snow could obliterate the route from the landscape. Historical evidence indicates there was a hospital at the northern end, probably frequently used by casualties of the road.
The Monega was popular with cattle drovers seeking an alternative to the steep Devil’s Elbow that rises between Glen Shee and Braemar, and it also enjoyed royal patronage: in 1861 Queen Victoria crossed on a pony during a stay at Balmoral.
Over time, the Monega fell out of use as the lower-level Tolmounth Road between Clova and Braemar gained favour with drovers and traders. Thereafter, with traffic light, it was used by cattle rustlers and picked up a reputation for smuggling, doubtless witnessing many clandestine movements in its long history.
The old road reaches its summit on the eastern flank of Glas Maol. The walk branches left and heads west over open hillside to the trig point and stone shelter atop the day’s first Munro.
The summit of Glas Maol affords excellent views north to the Cairngorm mountains. Closer to home, near neighbours Cairn of Claise and Carn an Tuirc – both Munros – lie to the east while the day’s next goal, Creag Leacach, awaits to the southwest.
Following the county boundary, marked by an indistinct line of metal fence posts, descend in a southwest direction across open hillside to a prominent cairn at the northern end of a stone wall. This wall, and an accompanying fence, are handy navigational aids as they lead all the way on to the summit of Creag Leacach.
Following the wall, the route descends gently to a col where a tiny stone howff (shelter) lurks amid the rocks, to the left of the wall. Beyond the narrow entrance, the shelter accommodates two and is a useful refuge from the elements, although not suitable for overnight stays.
From the howff, the route rises over the northern flank of Creag Leacach. The ascent is easy at first but soon becomes more arduous, the path weaving a course up through scattered rock and scree to the summit cairn. With slopes falling away steeply on both sides, the summit feels wonderfully exposed.
The rocky spine of Creag Leacach cuts across the skyline
Continue south and then west along the stony ridge, taking care to avoid rusty fence wire that litters the ground, to reach the southwest top and, from here, set a course for Carn Ait, an outlier to the southwest, boasting some impressive cairns.
From Carn Ait descend east on heathery vehicle tracks and then walk southeast over the low mound of Mallrenheskein to Black Hill, negotiating some deep peat hags in the col between the two. From Black Hill descend to Glack of Glengairney and prepare for 200m of fairly remorseless ascent to the summit of Monamenach, a Corbett.
Reward for this end of the day effort is a stunning vista of the route in its entirety. Glas Maol and Creag Leacach appear very different in character and complexity from this elevated angle but are neighbours nonetheless, while Monega Hill to the east seems a long way off now.
A clear path descends the southern flank of Monamenach, joining a good track further down the slope. This descends east to meet the valley track at Auchavan.
Monamenach from Creag Leacach
WALK 2
Badandun Hill
| Start/Finish | Forestry Commission car park at Freuchies, 2km east of Kirkton of Glenisla on minor road signed for Glenmarkie Lodge (NO 224 608) |
| Distance | 22km (13¾ miles) |
| Time | 6hr |
| Height gain | 708m (2325ft) |
| Maps | OS 1:50,000 Landranger 43 and 44; OS 1:25,000 Explorer 381 and 388 |
To truly appreciate the lie of the land in Glen Isla, a hike over Badandun Hill is highly recommended. The summit offers fine vistas across both the fertile lower section of the valley and the wilder upper reaches of the glen, where high peaks cut across the skyline.
Starting from the car park at Freuchies, the route approaches Badandun Hill from the south, crossing green pastures before venturing on to rougher grouse moor. Tracks and paths are generally very good, although accurate navigation is required if visibility is poor on the summit. Underfoot the terrain is good with only occasional boggy patches of ground and some peat hags to negotiate on the summit approach. Dogs should be kept under close control due to the presence of grazing sheep and cattle and ground-nesting birds.
On the north side of the car park, go left and follow a forest road signed for ‘Glen Prosen and Glen Clova by Kilbo Path’. The track rises gently through a plantation of pine and larch trees where, during the summer, flowering broom bushes add a generous splash of yellow to the proceedings.
Follow the track for 1km to reach a wooden gate on the left. Go through this and pass through another gate a few metres further on. The route crosses a wooden bridge spanning the outflow of Loch Shandra and strikes across the embankment at the southern end of this reservoir. Head for a corrugated iron boathouse at the far end of the embankment, savouring views north towards Badandun Hill.
Badandun Hill mirrored in the calm waters of Loch Shandra
Behind the boathouse the embankment path meets a track. Turn right and follow this along the west side of the loch. Approaching the north end of Loch Shandra, where small pockets of woodland hug the shoreline, look out for heron, swans and wildfowl in the reeds.
Leaving the loch behind, the track fords a tiny stream and arrives at a junction with a Cateran Trail marker post. Bear right here, off the marked trail, and follow a grassy track round to a gate. Go though and a rough trail crosses a muddy stream gully before rising over grazing land. Over to the right are the ruins of Craignity, an abandoned farm, while to the left there is a good view of Mount Blair.
At the top of the field, the track passes through a metal gate and continues across a second field. As it approaches a wall and fence, it swings right and rises to a pair of wooden gates at the top left-hand corner of the field. Go through the right-hand gate and a track leads to a derelict farmhouse and outbuildings at Craighead.
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