one ticket and you’ll both have to travel together for the full journey including the return). See www.hznet.hr for timetables and fares (click on ‘HŽ Putnički prijevoz’, then select language, then click on ‘timetables’).
By bus
Local bus services operate on most of the major islands (including all but one of those featured in this guide) and in most cases provide a convenient, easy way to get around, at least between the main settlements. Some bus services connect neighbouring islands joined by a road bridge (for example, Cres and Lošinj), and continue to cities on the mainland via ferry (for example, buses from Cres cross by ferry to the island of Krk and continue from there to Rijeka and Zagreb on the mainland via road bridge).
Intercity buses cover most towns in Croatia and tend to be slightly more expensive than an equivalent train journey, while Croatia’s new motorway system, constructed over the past decade, has cut journey times between Zagreb and the coast to similar to (or in most cases faster than) the equivalent route by train.
As with train tickets, return journeys are cheaper than two singles, and a return ticket on intercity routes includes a seat reservation only for the outward journey, so you’ll need to pay for the return seat reservation once at your destination. There are no seat reservations on most short local routes. (Many ticket offices will tell you that a seat reservation for the return journey is not necessary, and often they’ll be right, but it is advisable to politely insist that in your case it is necessary, rather than risk missing a connecting ferry or flight should all the seats suddenly get booked up).
See the introduction to each island chapter for details of local bus routes. For timetables and fares see www.autotrans.hr (covering many of the islands) and local tourist information office websites (details below, in the introduction to each island); otherwise try www.autobusni-kolodvor.com, although this never lists all services. For routes to/from Zagreb also check www.akz.hr.
The dry, almost lunar landscape of the Furnaža peninsula, on the island of Pag
By car
When driving in Croatia, whether in your own or a hire car, be aware of the following rules and regulations.
Drive on the right and carry a driving licence at all times.
Speed limits are 50km/h in towns or any other built-up areas, 90km/h on the open road, 110km/h on dual carriageways, and 130km/h on motorways (and for drivers under the age of 24, the speed limits are 10km/h less than each of these figures).
Wearing seat belts is mandatory (including all passengers), as is the use of child seats for infants up to the age of six (children under 12 cannot sit in the front seat).
Headlights must be switched on at all times, including (dipped) during the day.
All cars must carry a reflective vest or jacket (which should be worn at the scene of an accident) and snow chains during the winter.
Driving while using a mobile phone is prohibited.
The blood alcohol limit is 0.05% (zero for drivers under the age of 24).
Motorways operate on a toll system, as does the bridge between the mainland and the island of Krk and the Učka Tunnel in Istria. Note that ferry prices for taking a car to the islands are much higher than for those travelling as foot passengers – another reason to use public transport. Drivers should note that the main coastal highway (Magistrala) is single lane, windy and gets extremely busy in the summer. In case of a breakdown, contact the Croatian Automobile Club (www.hak.hr, tel. 987).
Cycling
Croatia’s islands are great for cycling. Traffic is in most cases less manic than on the coast, the views are often wonderful, and most tourist centres of any size have at least one place where you can hire bikes. Several local tourist boards have made a concerted effort to promote cycling, with maps of cycle routes available and some degree of signposting. There’s also a national ‘bed and bike’ scheme, see www.mojbicikl.hr/bike-bed/.
Some of the best areas on the islands for cycling are the Kalifron peninsula on Rab; the Kabal peninsula and Stari Grad Plain on Hvar; the central part of Brač; the Bradat peninsula on Korčula; and Mljet. For more information on cycling in Croatia (including route descriptions for several islands, plus links to maps and other publications) see www.pedala.hr (website only partly in English; for routes click on ‘biciklističke rute’, then ‘regije’, where you can search by region).
Premužićeva staza hiking trail, Rab, where it joins the coast (Walk 7)
Hitchhiking
Hitching on the Croatian coast and islands is generally a rather unsatisfying experience – few people are likely to stop, and it’s not always easy to find a good place to stand where you’re not going to get mown down by passing traffic. You can also try looking for a ride (with a small charge) on the local hitching forum, www.gorivo.com. In Croatia, as elsewhere, hitching can never be recommended as entirely safe for those travelling alone, particularly women.
Accommodation
There is a wide range of accommodation on the Croatian coast and islands – from large resort-style complexes to small boutique hotels, pensions (pansion), private rooms and apartments, hostels and campsites – and even several lighthouses. Private rooms (sobe – similar to a B&B, but usually without breakfast) and apartments (apartmani – usually with a small kitchen) are generally better value than hotels. Some rooms and apartments have a minimum one-week stay, and most will charge a supplement for stays less than three nights. Local tourist offices usually have private accommodation listed on their website, and some will book it for you, while others will refer you to a local agency for the booking itself. In most cases the owner of the soba or apartman will come to meet you at the tourist office and show you to your chosen accommodation.
Hotels usually offer their best rates online. Try to book as far in advance as possible during the peak season (July–August), as places do get booked up. Prices are significantly lower during shoulder seasons (May–June and September–October), and many places close during the winter months (those which remain open tend to reduce their rates by as much as 50 per cent at this time). Prices are often quoted in euro and converted to kuna according to the daily rate. Hotels often only charge a small amount above their room rates for half-board. Wild camping, and camping within a national park or nature park, is prohibited.
A useful website to search for private rooms and apartments is www.gdjenamore.com. For youth hostels, see www.hfhs.hr; for lighthouses offering accommodation, see www.lighthouses-croatia.com. Local tourist board websites are listed in the introduction to each island.
