In the upper valley the 12th and 13th centuries saw permanent settlement encroach into the uplands as the climate improved. House platforms and cultivation ridges – for example at Banc-y-Celyn south of Builth – hint at former settlement sites, as do the later ruins of shepherds’ summer dwellings, often surrounded by small walled enclosures: a good example being at Lluest-pen-rhiw on Elenydd. There was industrial activity in the mountains, too, typified by the lead mines on the slopes of Plynlimon and Drygarn Fawr, and widespread evidence of peat-cutting.
Much of the moorland was controlled by the monks of Strata Florida and Abbeycwmhir, with sheep and goats grazing the hills, their wool exported to France and the Low Countries. The dissolution of the monasteries led to the growth of country estates – at first on a modest scale around solid farmhouses such as Nannerth-ganol near Rhayader, where the farmstead has been dated to 1555, and later with impressive houses in parkland. Holme Lacy near Hereford was built in the 1680s on the site of a medieval deer park, while the park surrounding Moccas Court was landscaped a century later by the landscape architect Lancelot Brown (1716–1783; more commonly known as Capability Brown or ‘England’s greatest gardener’).
The industrial era saw the river at its busiest, with water power providing the driving force for mills of all descriptions, together with industries as diverse as tanning (the last of Rhayader’s tanneries closed in the 1950s), cider and perry making, ropemaking and shipbuilding. The river also provided access for the industries of the lower Wye, including blast furnaces, copper smelting and tinplate works at Redbrook; a whole series of paper mills in the Whitebrook valley; and lead and copper working together with grain and fulling mills in the Angidy Valley at Tintern.
The ruins of St Mary’s Church, Tintern (Walk 4)
As heavy industry declined, a new source of income revived the lower Wye’s fortunes. Tourists, inspired by the natural wonders of the Wye Gorge, arrived in increasing numbers from the 1780s onwards. Their arrival, often by pleasure boat as part of the renowned Wye Tour, created a slightly perverse motivation to save the decaying ruins of Tintern Abbey and much of the industrial archaeology in the valley. JMW Turner and William Wordsworth were among those stirred by the sights, and landowners responded by creating new viewing points and romantic walks above the river. The Monmouth Picnic Club went further, building the Round House on the Kymin, its first-floor dining room offering wide views over the valley to the Welsh mountains.
The early tourists’ curiosity didn’t extend much further than Hereford and its Mappa Mundi, however, and it is only more recently that more eclectic leisure destinations such as Hay-on-Wye with its second-hand bookshops, the Rhayader area with popular feeding stations for the majestic red kite, and the Elan Valley reservoirs have emerged as magnets drawing increasing numbers into the scenic and unspoilt upper valley.
More recent development has sometimes been less benign, although the construction of the Elan reservoirs from 1893 onwards met very little opposition, and they have arguably added a spectacular new landscape element to the somewhat barren moors west of Rhayader. The construction of wind farms has proved more controversial, but although the number of turbines is gradually increasing and wind farm development continues to gather pace, they have not yet had a profound impact on the valley, which remains largely unspoilt and perfect for leisurely exploration on foot.
Getting to and around the Wye Valley
The Wye Valley is easily reached from Manchester, Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff and indeed London, with the M4 providing an easy route to the lower valley; the M50, A40, and A49 opening up the Herefordshire section; and the A470 (from Cardiff and Brecon) and A44 (from Birmingham and Leominster) penetrating the upper valley. The key rail hubs are Chepstow – with slightly erratic services from Gloucester and Cardiff – and Hereford, with good connections from London, Birmingham, Cardiff and Manchester. In addition, Llandrindod Wells and Builth Wells have a few services on the scenic Heart of Wales line between Shrewsbury and Swansea.
The chain ferry at Symonds Yat (Walk 7)
Local bus services are good in the lower reaches and, unsurprisingly, much more sporadic in the relatively remote upland country of Mid Wales, although even here careful planning will allow most walks to be completed using public transport. Details of public transport options are given for each walk, although a car is essential for a small number of the walks.
Appendix B gives full contact details of relevant public transport operators, as well as of the region’s local councils. The council websites are largely focused on residents rather than visitors, but three of the region’s five (for Powys, Herefordshire and Monmouthshire) offer very good public transport information, and they all feature useful sections dealing with public rights of way, with information on temporary closures and a facility to report path problems online.
Accommodation
There is a very varied range of accommodation available in the lower Wye Valley, from fine hotels to comfortable guest houses, village inns, youth hostels and camping, but the choice is much more limited higher up the valley (with the exception of towns such as Llandrindod Wells and Rhayader). Appendix B provides contact details for websites and organisations that offer advice on where to stay and things to see or do while you’re visiting the area.
While the future of tourist information centres is often in doubt because of financial constraints, the Wye Valley is well served by TICs, which can provide information on accommodation as well as attractions, activities and events. The most useful are listed in Appendix B.
When to go
The whole of the Wye Valley is very accessible to walkers throughout the year, with a rich variety of routes available in every season – from the crisp delights of sunny winter days to the woodlands carpeted with bluebells and anemones in spring, the wildflower meadows of summer, and the red, gold and yellow of the autumn trees. Bear in mind, however, that the high hills can sometimes be unforgiving in winter conditions, and that the Wye regularly floods in a number of places. A detailed weather forecast from www.metoffice.gov.uk can prove invaluable, and the Environment Agency’s flood warnings (at www.environment-agency.gov.uk) should be checked after sustained periods of rain.
Winter flooding on the Wye above Symonds Yat (Walk 8)
What to take
The relevant maps, a compass and (especially in woodland areas and on the remote moors at the head of the valley, which have few landmarks) a GPS unit should always be carried, together with a good set of waterproofs and spare warm clothing. Don’t forget to pack adequate supplies of food and water, a camera to capture the best of the scenery and binoculars for wildlife-watching. A decent pair of lightweight walking boots should be able to cope with all of the walks in this book, including the moorland and mountain expeditions above the upper Wye.
Maps and waymarking
Walkers are encouraged to use the relevant 1:25,000 Ordnance Survey map to supplement the 1:50,000 map extracts (reproduced at 1:40,000 in the printed book and 1:50,000 in digital format). The whole of the valley is covered by nine 1:25,000 maps:
Outdoor Leisure 13 (Brecon Beacons National Park – Eastern Area)
Outdoor Leisure 14 (Wye Valley & Forest of Dean)
Explorer
