Permits
Before you set out on the John Muir Trail, or on any other hike that requires overnight camps in wilderness areas, you need to obtain a wilderness permit. This is absolutely essential. You will almost certainly encounter several park rangers while on your trek, and many of these will demand to see your permit. There are steep fines for venturing into the wilderness without a permit. National park rangers in the States hold much greater powers than national park wardens in the UK. Some have the power of arrest and, like the police, carry guns. They are usually extremely courteous and friendly, and can offer sound advice, but never think of crossing them or breaking the rules, which are in place principally to protect this special but fragile environment. The system avoids overcrowding and reduces the impact on the wilderness areas.
There are strict allocations of permits, only a certain number being issued for each day from each trailhead. During the main holiday period during the summer months competition for them can be intense. Permits may be reserved up to 24 weeks in advance of the day you intend starting the Trail. You are strongly advised to make a request for a permit before making any other plans for walking the JMT. Once a permit has been reserved then it is safe to go ahead to book a flight to California and make all your other plans.
Looking eastwards towards the Mount Whitney massif from Guitar Lake (Day 19)
Generally hikers must leave their commencing trailhead (in this case Happy Isles, Yosemite Valley) on the day their permit begins. Make sure, therefore, that you allow yourself sufficient time after arriving in the States to buy all the food supplies needed for your hike, package them up and post them to various points along the Trail, and finally get yourself to Yosemite Village in time for the day your permit begins.
Horses kicking up the dust on the Trail in Lyell Canyon (Day 4)
Make a reservation as early as possible – as soon as you are within 24 weeks of your planned starting date. Applying early is the best way of ensuring that you are granted your permit. Remember that a request for a permit reservation does not guarantee a reservation. If the quota for that day is full then you will be rejected. Give an alternative starting date if possible.
You may request a reservation for a wilderness permit by one of three methods – by post, telephone or fax (see below). If accepted you will receive a written confirmation, which will state the date of entry to the wilderness area, the trailhead where your hike will begin and the number in your party. Retain this as proof of your reservation to present at the Wilderness Centre in Yosemite Village when you arrive. You will then receive your permit. Keep it safe at all times on the JMT and show it to any ranger who requests to inspect it.
The conditions and procedures for making permit reservations do change from time to time, and it is essential to ascertain the current situation by looking on the web or by telephoning the Wilderness Centre in Yosemite. When doing this or making a reservation by phone do not forget the significant time difference between Europe and California (see ‘Time in California’ under ‘Walking the Trail’, below).
If you are walking the JMT as described in this guidebook you will enter the wilderness area at Yosemite. You therefore need to obtain a permit from the Yosemite end of the Trail (the application procedures described in full below apply to Yosemite). The Yosemite Association, a non-profit making organisation, is now responsible for issuing permits at Yosemite.
If you wish to hike the JMT from south to north (Whitney to Yosemite) you need to obtain a permit from the Whitney end of the Trail, as it is from here that you will be entering the wilderness area. For information check out the website of the Inyo Forest Wilderness Reservation Service (/www.fs.usda.gov/inyo), the private contractor that now deals with wilderness permit applications on behalf of the Inyo National Forest. Click onto ‘Passes & Permits’ and go to ‘Wilderness Permits’. Note that in order to cope with the large and increasing numbers of walkers wanting to climb Mount Whitney, permits are required not only for overnight wilderness campers but also for day hikers in the Whitney area above Lone Pine Lake. (Permits are limited to 150 day hikers and 50 over-nighters – fines of up to $200 are levied on anyone found without a permit in the Whitney area.)
Note that a separate permit is now required to climb Half Dome. Of these, 75 permits a day are reserved for backpackers; 50 of these can be reserved in advance and 25 are available only on the day before the climb (the latter in person from the Wilderness Centre in Yosemite). Each permit costs $8. If you are sure that (weather permitting) you intend to attempt Half Dome, then apply for this permit at the same time as your JMT Backpackers Permit (see below).
Making a Permit Reservation by Phone
A phone call to the States is perhaps the best way to ensure that you obtain the right permit for the right day; you will be told immediately of any problems and can discuss alternative dates. Provided you have all the necessary information to hand, it should take only a few minutes to make your reservation.
The telephone number of the Wilderness Centre in Yosemite is: (209) 372 0740 (preceded by the international code for the US, 001 from the UK). The number is often very busy, so persistence may be required. The office is normally open between 8am and 4.30pm Pacific Time. You will need to give the following information.
Your name, address and daytime telephone number.
The exact starting and finishing dates of your trek (be sure to allow yourself a sufficient number of days for the JMT; if you request too few days then there may be problems if your permit runs out before you reach the end of the Trail).
The starting and ending trailhead (Happy Isles, Yosemite Valley and Whitney Portal). It is important to state that you are going to be walking the John Muir Trail in its entirety. There are considerable restrictions on entry into the Mount Whitney area and usually your permit must carry a special stamp to allow you entry into this area along the JMT. Be sure to confirm the current regulations regarding this and any other special conditions along the route.
The number of people in your group (you will not normally be asked details about the others in your group, but it is best to have these on hand when you make the call just in case). The maximum size of each group is normally 15 persons.
You will also need details of your credit card to hand as there is a small administrative charge (currently $5 per person in the group) for making the reservation.
Once the reservation is made, written confirmation will be sent by post. You will receive a permit for the group, not separate permits for each individual within your group, although if walking alone your ‘group size’ will be one person.
Making a Permit Reservation by Post
Provide the same information as above in your letter, which should be addressed to Wilderness Reservations, Yosemite Association, PO Box 545, Yosemite, CA 95389, US. A method of payment will be required, so enclose your credit card number.
This method of application is not recommended for those outside the US, as it is very time consuming, particularly if there are any problems. Permits are quickly allocated, and you may end up without a permit or with a permit several days or even weeks after you actually wanted it.
If you do decide on this method of application it is important that your written request arrives at least 24 weeks prior to the date you wish to start the trek. Although, if it arrives earlier it will not be processed until 24 weeks before the first day of the planned hike.
