Walking on Tenerife. Paddy Dillon

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Walking on Tenerife - Paddy Dillon

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Total Ascent 300m (985ft) Total Descent 800m (2625ft) Time 5hrs Terrain Paths are often rugged and sometimes traverse steep, rocky slopes. Refreshment Bars at Chamorga, Benijo and Almáciga. Transport Infrequent buses serve Chamorga from Santa Cruz. Regular daily buses serve Almáciga from Santa Cruz. Waymarked route(s) Route uses PR TF 6, 6.1 and 6.2.

      This route wanders round the extreme north-eastern end of Tenerife. There are two options to start, either by heading down a rugged barranco and climbing to a lighthouse, or crossing a mountain and descending to the lighthouse. The continuation is along a rugged coastal route.

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      Note the number of dragon trees around Chamorga, and start from the bar, Casa Alvaro. There are two options for reaching the lighthouse, Faro de Anaga, either by walking down the barranco via the PR TF 6, or climbing above the bar and crossing the mountainside via the PR TF 6.1.

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      A footbridge across the stream in the Barranco de Roque Bermejo

      PR TF 6

      The road has a metal fence to the right, which continues down a concrete path with steps, passing houses. Cross a footbridge, go down a path with more steps and cross another footbridge. A narrow path follows a streambed, joining a broader path which is actually the continuation of the road. Turn right to follow it and later note a little house on the left. The path becomes more rugged as it descends through the Barranco de Roque Bermejo, either stone-paved or on bare rock. There is a big cave up to the left as the path climbs over a rocky notch.

      Go down stone steps and a stone-paved path, over a rocky hump, then down to cross a couple of wooded footbridges over a cane-choked streambed. Rise a little and go round a corner, then down a winding path. Roque Bermejo is framed in the mouth of the barranco. The Casas Blancas are in ruins, so keep walking downhill, squeezing between cultivated areas, to reach a signpost at the bottom. The route turns left, but it is worth turning right first, down to houses at Roque Bermejo, climbing back afterwards. Turning left leads up a sweeping zigzag track, gravelly, gritty or stone-paved, up crumbling slopes covered in tabaibal, to the lighthouse of Faro de Anaga, at 230m (755ft). Continue up to a junction with the PR TF 6.1 and keep right.

      PR TF 6.1

      This route from Chamorga saves 2km (1½ miles), but does not visit Roque Bermejo. Leave the bar and go up a concrete road, which quickly ends and gives way to a rugged path. This climbs across a scrub-covered slope and keeps left of a curious outcrop of rock. An easy stretch undulates through laurisilva woods, rises with steps, and zigzags up a rock face with a fence beside at a higher level. Walk to a gap where the ruined Casas de Tafada stand, with patchy laurisilva around. The path rises a little on the mountain crest then heads left into the laurisilva. Trees give way to a scrub-covered slope as the path winds down to a junction near the Faro de Anaga. Turn left to continue along the PR TF 6.

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      Roque Bermejo seen from the lower part of the Barranco de Roque Bermejo

      The path undulates and winds easily across the slope, past fennel and tangled scrub. Pass beneath an overhang and later go round into a gully where there is a little shrine. Cross a crumbling slope and pass overhangs. Climb a little, then wind down past a building with a wine press, and down past a cave beneath a huge boulder. Go in and out of a couple of gullies, getting close-up views of the islets of Roque de Dentro. Roque de Dentro is a sacred Guanche burial site. Climb through a barranco full of aloes to reach Las Palmas de Anaga, and pass the buildings with care as the cliffs beneath are crumbling.

      There are lots of aloes, while prickly pears are almost like trees. Cross a couple of barrancos close together. The path winds and climbs steeply and ruggedly to outflank a crumbling cliff, heading in and out of gullies, then generally on a downward traverse. Cross a scree slope and turn up around a corner for a view of villages ahead. The path heads down across a slope and easily crosses a steep boulder scree slope. Wind downhill, with some stone steps, to cross a streambed. A short climb reaches a signpost at a junction with a track at a dragon tree beside the hamlet of El Draguillo, at 170m (560ft). A left turn links with Walk 4 and can be extended to return to Chamorga.

      Follow the track between the houses, then go down a concrete road to leave the hamlet. Turn a corner, and apart from a stretch of dirt road over a crest, it is mostly downhill to a junction with a tarmac road at Benijo (bar on the right, Restaurante El Mirador). Turn right and squeeze past it to find a path down to a bouldery beach. Turn left to pick a way along the beach and cross the mouth of the Barranco de Benijo. Follow the marked path onwards, which rejoins the road and passes the black ash Playa de Benijo, popular with surfers. Use another path to avoid a further stretch of road.

      When the road is joined again, turn right to follow it only for a few paces, then turn left along a concrete path with a street lamp and masses of tamarisk alongside. Zigzag up a scrub-covered slope and go up concrete steps into Almáciga. Climb along tarmac roads, including the gentle Calle La Renta and the steep Calle La Cruz. A shop and bar are not obvious in the village. Reach a bus stop before a signposted fork in Calle Las Piedrillas. Turn right down a tarmac road to the beach, where there are a few bar restaurants and a bus stop at Roque de las Bodegas.

      Almáciga, Benijo and El Draguillo

Start/Finish Almáciga
Distance 10km (6¼ miles)
Total Ascent/Descent 500m (1640ft)
Time 3hrs
Terrain Easy coastal road and hillside paths that can be steep and rugged.
Refreshment Bars at Almáciga and Benijo.
Transport Regular daily buses serve Almáciga from Santa Cruz.
Waymarked route(s) Route uses PR TF 6, 6.2 and 6.3.

      This short circular walk links the coastal villages of Almáciga, Benijo and El Draguillo, then climbs to a junction where scrub-covered slopes meet the fringe of laurisilva forest. There is an option to cross a gap to reach Chamorga; otherwise the walk descends to return to Benijo and Almáciga.

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      Buses run to and from Almáciga but terminate there, so the coastal road must be followed eastwards on foot. There is no need to follow its bendy course beyond the black ash beach of Playa de Benijo. Use a combination of coastal path and beach walk to cross the mouth of the Barranco de Benijo. Watch for a path on the right to climb to the Restaurante El Mirador and rejoin the road. Turn left to leave the tarmac road and follow

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