the rest of Britain around 10,000 years ago. It may well have been a single landmass for a while, but a combination of rising sea levels and coastal erosion produced the current pattern of five islands and a bewildering number of rocks and reefs. Before the arrival of the first settlers, it was no doubt a wild and wooded place.
Ancient History
Arthurian legend points to the Isles of Scilly as the last remnants of the lost land of Lyonesse; but while a submerged landscape does exist around the islands, it was never Lyonesse. In 1752 the Cornish antiquarian William Borlase discovered and recorded submerged field systems on the tidal flats near Samson. It seems that the first settlers were Neolithic, but a more comprehensive settlement of the islands came in the Bronze Age, up to 4000 years ago. Some splendid ritual standing stones and stoutly constructed burial chambers remain from this time, and excavations have revealed skeletons, cremated remains and a host of artefacts. When the Romans began their occupation of Britain 2000 years ago, criss-crossing the land with straight roads, settlement patterns on the Isles of Scilly were in huddled formations, as witnessed today on Halangy Down and Nornour. No doubt the Romans traded with the islands, as coins have been discovered, but it seems they established no lasting presence. In later centuries the Isles of Scilly attracted Christian hermits, leaving some of the islands blessed with the names of saints. That great seafaring race, the Vikings, also visited the islands. From time to time the Isles of Scilly have been a haven for pirates, their retreat every now and then smashed by the authorities of the day. In the 11th century over one hundred pirates were beheaded in a single day on Tresco!
The Inisidgen Upper Burial Chamber on the coast of St Mary’s is 4000 years old (Walk 3)
Later History
A Benedictine priory was founded on Tresco in the 12th century, and Henry I granted the island to Tavistock Abbey. By the 14th century the islands became part of the Duchy of Cornwall and Edward III gave them to the Black Prince, who was made the Duke of Cornwall. In the 16th century Governor Francis Godolphin was granted the lease of the islands by Elizabeth I. Godolphin built the eight-pointed Star Castle above the harbour on St Mary’s. During the Civil War, in the middle of the 17th century, Prince Charles (later King Charles II) stayed briefly at the Star Castle. Towards the end of the Civil War the islands were occupied by disgruntled Royalists who launched pirate raids on passing ships, causing the Dutch to send a fleet of ships to deal with the problem. An English fleet intercepted the Dutch, preventing wholesale destruction on the islands, and thereby gaining the final surrender of the Royalist force.
The remains of a 12th-century Benedictine priory at the Abbey Garden on Tresco (Walk 10)
The 18th century was a time of great poverty on the islands, but despite their remoteness John Wesley visited them in the course of his preaching around the British Isles. Shipbuilding became an important occupation late in the 18th century and continued well into the 19th century. In the early 19th century the Godolphin family allowed their lease on the Isles of Scilly to lapse, so that they reverted to the Duchy of Cornwall. In 1834 Augustus Smith from Hertfordshire took over the lease of the islands as Lord Proprietor, and developed Tresco in particular, building the Abbey House as his residence and establishing the Abbey Garden.
The successful export of flowers from the islands dates from the middle of the 19th century and has enjoyed mixed fortunes. During 1918 the Dorrien-Smith family gave up the lease on all the islands except Tresco. While fortifications on St Mary’s were strengthened in the First World War, the islands escaped lightly. During the Second World War, however, there was a lot more activity around the islands, as submarines and warships played deadly hide and seek in the waters, and several warplanes were stationed there.
Recent History
In a sudden magnanimous gesture in 1949, the Duchy of Cornwall offered the sale of the freehold on most properties occupied by sitting tenants in Hugh Town. The Isles of Scilly were designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1975, www.scillyaonb.org.uk. The Duchy leases all its uninhabited islands and unfarmed wilderness land to the Isles of Scilly Wildlife trust, www.ios-wildlifetrust.org.uk. The annual rent is one daffodil! The Trust manages this land for conservation and recreation, safeguarding habitats for flora and fauna, while maintaining the network of footpaths over the land. The designation of a Marine Park to conserve the surrounding sea bed and marine life was another important development. The infrastructure of the islands continues to develop and tourism is an increasingly important industry, but always with due regard to the environment and the conservation of nature.
These brief notes can only give the barest outline of the islands’ history, which has been turbulent and colourful and makes an interesting and absorbing study. Be sure to visit the Isles of Scilly Museum, www.iosmuseum.org, in Hugh Town on St Mary’s for a more thorough grounding and to obtain further information.
The Isles of Scilly have a most colourful and turbulent history and heritage (Walk 10)
Getting to the Isles of Scilly
By Road: The A30 road is the main transport artery through the south-west, pushing through Devon and Cornwall, around Dartmoor and over Bodmin Moor, to terminate abruptly at Land’s End. Motorists will have to abandon their vehicles at airports such as Exeter, Newquay or Land’s End for short flights to Scilly, or at Penzance for the ferry. Cars cannot be taken to the islands, nor are they necessary, so enquire about secure long-term car parking, either in Penzance or at the airports. National Express buses serve Penzance from London, Plymouth, Birmingham and Scotland (www.nationalexpress.com).
By Rail: The rail network terminates at Penzance, served by daily Cross Country trains, www.crosscountrytrains.co.uk, direct from Manchester and Birmingham, or, with a simple change at Birmingham, services operate from as far away as Leeds, Newcastle, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen. First Great Western trains run to Penzance daily from London Paddington, www.gwr.com.
Combined rail/sail deals are available through the Isles of Scilly Travel Centre. Transfers can be arranged between Penzance railway station and Land’s End airport, if you chose to fly and enquire while booking your flight. A short walk around the harbour from the railway station leads to Lighthouse Pier where the Scillonian III sails for the Isles of Scilly. Bear in mind, if travelling on weekends, that there are no flights and rarely any ferries to or from the Isles of Scilly on Sundays.
By Ship: The Scillonian III is a fine little ship of 1250 tonnes, sailing once each way between Penzance and St Mary’s from Monday to Saturday from March to November. There are two sailings on Saturdays either side of Whit week and for the World Pilot Gig Championships, as well as Sunday sailings in July and August. Observe the regulations for carrying luggage, which should always be labelled with your destination, and clearly labelled with the name of the particular island you are visiting. Luggage can be conveyed to your accommodation in Hugh Town, but be sure to follow instructions to avail of this service. The journey usually takes 2¾ hours. Bad weather can cause the schedule to be altered in the winter months. For details contact the Isles of Scilly Travel Centre, tel 01736 334220; www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk
By Aeroplane: All flights to St Mary’s are operated by Skybus, using Twin Otter
