outside but the real gems are inside and include an altarpiece from the Spanish-Flemish School by Felipe de Bigarmy (part of the funeral chapel of Santa Ana) and the main altarpiece constructed in a Renaissance style. You need to book in advance to visit (606 145 0045). To the south of the town, just before the village of Vado, are the remains of the San Vicente Hermitage, an 8th-century ‘building’ carved out of a rock and surrounded by graves (happily empty), also carved out of rock.
The town has the full range of services with several small hotels the best of which is probably the Hostal Peñalabra (979 970 037; www.hostalpenalabra.com) – very traditional, comfortable and with excellent food. The Hotel Roble (979 874 429; www.hotelelroble.com) – a modern hotel – serves early breakfast which is helpful if you want a fast getaway in the morning. Both hotels can be booked at www.booking.com.
STAGE 5
Cervera de Pisuerga to Brañosera
| Start | Calle San Roque, Cervera de Pisuerga (1054m) |
| Distance | 33km; shortcut: 27km |
| Ascent/Descent | 1440m/1240m; shortcut: 1130/930m |
| Grade | 4/4 |
| Walking time | 11hr; shortcut: 9hr 30min |
| Maximum altitude | 1603m |
Another great walk with wonderful views, particularly towards the end. The shortcut is recommended but if the route is still too long then stay at Estalaya. If you’re going the whole way organise a sandwich for lunch.
Head north through the town along the main street (Calle San Roque). Continue north as the main road swings east, stay on left-hand side of the Río Pisuerga, passing through a new municipal park, along a path between playing fields and the river, past an old water mill and into open countryside. Stay on the left-hand side of the river until it crosses an old bridge into the village of Arbejal.
Arbejal is a small pretty stone village with a youth hostel (979 87 01 74).
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