Walking on the Gower. Andrew Davies
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Walking down the northern end of Rhossili Down (Walks 18, 20–21 and 22)
The walks in the book are arranged in a clockwise order around the peninsula, starting in the south-east at Mumbles and finishing in the north-east at Llanrhidian. It is designed to be used in conjunction with the OS Explorer 1:25,000 Gower Sheet 164. The 30 routes described are of varying lengths and degrees of difficulty to cater for different interests and abilities and a fit walker will not find any of the routes particularly strenuous. All the routes are circular, include as few roads as possible and explore little frequented areas wherever possible.
Rights of way are generally well-marked and, on the whole, provide a good and even walking surface. Routes that include non-coastal sections can vary considerably in their nature depending on the amount of rain that has fallen. Good quality waterproof boots are recommended under these circumstances but stout walking shoes will suffice during the drier summer months.
Gower is exposed to prevailing south-westerly winds and the weather can change rapidly at any time of the year but temperatures are moderated by the relatively warm sea water of the Atlantic Drift. As a consequence, winters are seldom severe although the summits can provide a surprisingly mountain moorland experience on a hard snowy day. It is wise to carry enough clothing in case the weather changes. Multiple thin layers will give you more flexibility to respond to changing conditions.
Routes are illustrated with extracts from the 1:50,000 OS maps, with the main route marked in orange and any alternative routes marked in blue and extensions in green. Alternative and extended routes are described within the main route description. Features along the walk that appear on the map are highlighted in bold in the route description. The route descriptions are also accompanied by information boxes which are cross-referenced to other route descriptions, using the walk number.
WALK 1
The Mumbles, Langland and Caswell
Start/Finish | Bracelet Bay (SS 6250 8715) |
Distance | 11.5km (7¼ miles) |
Total ascent | 290m |
Time | 3hrs |
Refreshments | Forte’s Ice Cream Parlour, Plunch Lane; cafés in Rotherslade and Langland; shops and pubs in The Mumbles. |
The walk follows the cliff path west from Bracelet Bay to Langland and Caswell before heading inland through Bishop’s Wood, returning to the start via Oystermouth Castle and Mumbles Head. The footpath to Caswell is along a tarmac surface with the route becoming a little boggy crossing a short section of Clyne Common. There are plenty of opportunities for refreshments along the way and two beautiful beaches for a swim.
Bracelet Bay and Mumbles Lighthouse
With the ice cream parlour on your right, take the road to the west that soon becomes the cliff path. In the rocky cove of Limeslade there is a sandy beach at low tide with interesting rock pools. The rocks here are made of Carboniferous limestone.
Just up Plunch Lane is a house built by Catherine Zeta-Jones and Michael Douglas. On the headland to the east is the aerial and building of the Mumbles Coastguard station. Beyond is Bracelet Bay and Mumbles Head. The lighthouse was built on the Outer Head, the last island of three, in 1794 and is accessible by foot at low tide. The light was originally lit by two open coal fires arranged vertically to distinguish it from other beacons. These were replaced by an oil lantern and lens creating two beams.
Mumbles Head Fort was constructed next to the lighthouse in 1860 in anticipation of an invasion by Napoleon III of France which never came to fruition. It was used again during the Second World War by a small battery of soldiers. Bob's Cave can be found at the tip of Mumbles Head. Normally only noticeable from the sea, it is possible to reach the cave during low tide. Exercise extreme caution with the incoming tide. Remains of bison and buffalo from the Neolithic period and signs of human habitation were discovered during excavations in the cave, which was named after a member of the Mumbles Lifeboat crew, Bob Jenkins, who was found sheltering there two days after a tragic rescue attempt in January 1883.
Looking back east along this path you can see that the rocks, arranged in parallel layers or beds, have been tilted by around 45 degrees to the south. Inland there is a Local Nature Reserve covered mainly in gorse.
The path climbs steeply up to Rams Tor, giving great views of the coastline to the west of Caswell Bay, Pwlldu Bay and, finally, Oxwich Point. From Rotherslade, where there is a café, you can either continue along the path to Langland or walk across the beach if the tide is low enough.
Langland Bay is a designated conservation area with 75 Edwardian beach chalets overlooking the sandy beach. Notice an impressive building with a green turret behind the beach. This is a Scottish Baronial-style mansion built in the mid-19th century by the Crawshay family, the Merthyr Tydfil Ironmasters, as their summer residence.
Continue along the coastal path towards Caswell Bay. To the right are Newton Cliffs and Summerland Cliffs Local Nature Reserve. Rare plants such as hoary rockrose exist within this calcareous grassland, itself a rare habitat within the UK. The path climbs up to Whiteshell Point from where there is a fine view west of Caswell Bay, Brandy Cove and Pwlldu Bay. Notice the furrows running down the cliffs between the bay and Pwlldu Head. These were once quarried for limestone (see Walk 2). Brandy Cove was famous for smuggling.
Cross over the road into the car park and follow the path that runs along the valley on its left-hand side into Bishop’s Wood to a wooden building with a turf roof. The path on the right tends to be muddy in winter.
From the roundhouse, take the path on the left that soon joins another. Ignore the path that comes down from the right. Cross over this bridleway and take the lower path. Ignore the first turning on the right and take the second, by a sign for Lanwell, which then crosses a boardwalk. Just before you turn off, you may want to explore the area marked St Peter’s Well on the 1:25,000 map where there are remains of a chapel. There is a turf-covered roundhouse on the left and the land here is used for running courses in traditional woodland management.
Once over the boardwalk, ignore the path on the left and continue up the slope. This area has a number of interesting wooden houses.
Cross diagonally over the green and follow the footpath that then swings left and runs between two hedges. Ignore the path that crosses the open field.
When you reach a track turn right into Manselfield. When the road bends round to the right carry straight on along Reigit Lane. Ignore the turning on the right to Mansel Drive and carry on past the end of the houses and onto a footpath that comes to a gate to Clyne Common. Continue straight ahead along the path, cross a boggy area and turn right in the direction of the red houses ahead and then in the direction of two mobile phone masts. The path becomes indistinct in places and finally crosses a boggy area to a swing gate. Follow the path to the road and carry straight on.
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