The Cotswold Way. Kev Reynolds

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The Cotswold Way - Kev Reynolds

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digger. Soon after bear half-left through a shallow cleave, or dry valley, with Broadway Tower seen rising ahead (grid ref: 114 362). Shortly before reaching the tower, you will gain a first view down to Broadway. Go through a gate and immediately turn right.

      The top of Broadway Tower is said to be the highest point in the Cotswolds, at 1089ft (332m), although Cleeve Common claims the highest ground. Occupying a grassy knoll, it commands a tremendous panoramic view over the Vale of Evesham, with chequered fields below and the scarp edge folding away in a series of spurs and coombes as far as the eye can see.

      Designed by James Wyatt in 1798 for the sixth Earl of Coventry, the tower is a Norman-style keep with three rounded turrets. Around it lies part of the Broadway Tower Country Park; the Tower Barn is about 150 years old, while Rookery Barn houses an information centre and restaurant.

      At first enclosed by fences, the way then descends along the right-hand edge of a grassy slope, and through meadows linked by kissing gates, so to reach Broadway. As you come to the village bear left and walk along the main street heading west. In the heart of the village the street is flanked by red-flowering chestnut trees, and lined with shops, tearooms, hotels and houses of mellow stone. On coming to the village green, turn left into Church Street and wander past the Crown and Trumpet and the Parish Church of St Michael and All Angels.

      BROADWAY

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      A quintessential Cotswold village, with a wide street lined with handsome shops, houses and hotels – hence ‘broad way’. It is said to have been ‘discovered’ by William Morris, in whose wake came a number of Victorian artists to extend its fame. The village has a long history, but during the era of the stagecoach it grew in importance, providing accommodation and a change of horses in readiness for the steep haul up Fish Hill. Nowadays horses have been replaced by horsepower, and Broadway is at times a snarl of traffic amid a clutter of commerce.

      Without traffic the village is a gem: wisteria-clad cottages, 17th-century almshouses, an avenue of red-flowering chestnut trees, a village green and two churches. The oldest of these is St Eadburgh’s, which dates from the 12th century, and the other is the Victorian church of St Michael and All Angels, passed on the way out.

      Broadway has a wide range of shops, pubs, tea rooms and accommodation. Tourist information: Cotswold Court, The Green, Broadway 01386 852937.

      Soon after passing the church turn right onto a track, then go beyond a few houses into the meadowland ahead. The path takes you over a footbridge and across another meadow to West End Lane, across which you have a choice of paths. The right-hand option leads to Buckland, but directly ahead the Cotswold Way goes through a gate and up an enclosed path into a sloping meadow. At the head of the slope enter Broadway Coppice, a woodland mixture of hazel, oak, birch and ash. The path winds on before emerging at a hilltop field. Now bear left along the field edge, and at the end go round the back of a stable-cum-barn, then right to join a track heading left. At this point you re-enter Gloucestershire.

      The farm track takes you almost due south towards more wooded hills, before entering an untidy farmyard area. Bear right to follow a rough track going along the right-hand edge of a field, rising steadily and with tree-screened views soon showing into the valley off to your right, with Buckland nestling at the foot of the slope.

      Continue on the track, passing through a field gate with a crown of trees half-left ahead, and walk below a lovely line of beeches to gain the crest of a ridge. Views open once more. To the left stands a handsome farm and a few barns. The ridge narrows considerably, green and rabbit-shorn, with grey drystone walls criss-crossing, the slopes bearing a mixture of scrub and grassland habitats.

      In their season cowslips and early purple orchids paint the hillside with a flush of colour. Bullfinch and yellow hammer flit to and fro while jackdaws circle lazily over the topmost woods.

      The track takes you past a region of hollows on the left; these are one-time quarries. About 200 metres later, immediately after a junction of tracks, bear right over a cattle grid and walk along a cart track which curves through a long meadowland, keeping near the scarp edge with the mixed woods of Long Hill Plantation on your right.

      Coming to Shenberrow Hill (grid ref: 080 335) pass to the right of a farm, go through a field gate and descend to the right through a tight cleave (or dry valley) among trees.

      Shenberrow Hill above Stanton is the site of an Iron Age hill fort of about 2½ acres (1 hectare). When it was excavated in 1935, various artefacts were revealed, among them pieces of pottery, a bronze bracelet and two bone needles.

      Be warned that this ‘dry valley’ can be rather muddy in inclement weather. At the bottom of the cleave veer left, cross a stile, then descend along the right-hand side of meadowland. Before long bear right over a stile into an adjacent meadow and continue downhill towards a pond seen in a hollow. This is Stanton Reservoir, a pleasant corner giving a dazzle of light amidst the trees. Keep above the pond to the right, go through a gate and bear left to pass below its northern end. A track now leads down to Stanton (accommodation, refreshments), a glorious little village with almost-perfect cottages lining an almost-perfect street (grid ref: 070 342).

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      Stanton is recognised as ‘the perfect Cotswold village’ (photo: Lesley Williams)

      STANTON

      It has been called the perfect Cotswold village, and not without good reason. It is, in truth, almost too perfect, like a Hollywood director’s idea of a ‘quaint’ English village. In these days of bland architecture, insensitive development and myopic planning, Stanton very nearly jars with a sense of unreality! Its origins are simple. The village was basically a group of 16th-century cottages and farmhouses (Stanton, or Stan Tun, meaning ‘stony farm’) built from local stone in such a sympathetic manner that they seem to have grown straight out of the ground.

      When Sir Philip Stott came to Stanton Court in 1906 he found the village rather neglected, and from then until his death in 1937 he spent much money and architectural talent on restoring it to the splendour we see today. Unlike Broadway, Stanton has not been overrun by the motor car, or by advertisements. As such one wanders through in a dream of past centuries.

      For refreshments at the Mount Inn (food available 12–2pm), turn right when you reach the main street. B&B may be found at The Old Post House, Shenberrow Hill, Stanton Guildhouse and The Vine.

      Stanton to Winchcombe

Start Stanton
Finish Winchcombe
Distance 8 miles (12.5km)
Approximate time 3½–4hr
Maps Harvey’s Cotswold Way 1:40,000, OS Landranger 150 Worcester, The Malverns & Surrounding Area 1:50,000, OS Explorer OL45 The Cotswolds 1:25,000.
Refreshments Hailes and Winchcombe
Accommodation Wood Stanway (2½ miles/4km), North Farmcote nr Hailes (6 miles/9.5km) and Winchcombe

      Apart from the steep climb above Wood Stanway, this is an easy, gentle stage. It wanders through peaceful countryside with soft views to enjoy, not only from the scarp edge, but

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