the Channel Islands was a Norman–French ‘patois’ which had distinct forms from island to island. The Guernsey form is known as Guernésiaise, or even Dgèrnésiais and, while it is rarely heard, it is still spoken and some people are keen to preserve it. Sometimes it is referred to as ‘Guernsey French’, but a French person would struggle to understand it. It also goes by the name of ‘Guernsey Norman French’. The Alderney form of Aurignaise has perished and the Sark form of Sercquaise is spoken only by a handful of people.
Guernsey cows feed on lush grass and give rich and creamy milk for butter and ice cream
Visiting walkers may hear nothing of the language, but will be very aware of the roots of the language preserved in place-names all over the islands. Motorists on Guernsey struggling to find a place to park will often be confronted by signs warning ‘ces premises sont terre à l’amende’, followed by a threat of a fine levied by the Royal Court. If you are lucky, the notice may also state ‘no parking’ in English.
Visitors with a good knowledge of French will probably pronounce the place-names with a French accent, but in fact the ‘correct’ pronunciation would be different. In all other respects, English is spoken, written and understood everywhere, but there are also sizeable resident, working and visiting nationals from many other countries. It is increasingly common to hear several languages spoken on the streets. If assistance is needed with the pronunciation of a place-name, the best person to ask is a Guernsey person!
Money
The States of Guernsey issue their own banknotes and coins, which are inextricably linked to Sterling and come in exactly the same denominations. However, Guernsey £1 and £2 coins are rare, while Guernsey £1 notes are common. Bank of England Sterling notes and coins can be spent in Guernsey, and currency issued by the States of Jersey is also accepted. In theory Sterling banknotes from Scotland and Northern Ireland are accepted, but this depends on whether the person to whom they are being offered is familiar with them. Some businesses will accept Euros, but the rate of exchange may be poor.
Change given at the close of a transaction may be a mixture of Guernsey and British currency. Remember that Guernsey currency is not legal tender in Britain, although British banks will change notes at face value. It is common for visitors approaching the end of a holiday in Guernsey to request British currency only in their change. Your last few Guernsey coins can be dropped in a charity box on departure, or saved as mementos of your visit.
Guernsey specialises in financial services, and banks from all over the world are represented on the streets of St Peter Port. ATMs are common and a wide variety of credit and debit cards are accepted by businesses. There is no VAT added to purchases and the island enjoys a low rate of tax. There is an advantage in purchasing some high-value items on the island, but the cost of transporting goods to Guernsey can make some of the benefits marginal.
Communications
If taking a mobile phone to Guernsey, check in advance about roaming charges, or you might find yourself paying a high price for calls. The local provider is Sure, www.sure.com. There is generally good mobile coverage around the islands. Telephone kiosks are located in many urban and rural locations, where emergency calls (999 or 112) are free. There is free Wi-Fi at the tourist information centre in St Peter Port and some accommodation providers also offer this as a service to their guests.
Royal Mail postage stamps from Britain are not valid in Guernsey. Any attempt to use them will result in delayed delivery and an excess charge for the recipient. Guernsey Post stamps must be used, and if you are posting to Britain, Europe or any other destination, make this clear when you buy stamps as there are different rates. There are 10 post offices around Guernsey, and one each on Alderney, Sark and Herm. Walkers with an interest in philately can make arrangements to collect Guernsey stamps and first-day covers on a regular basis, see www.guernseypost.com.
Telephone and postal services on Guernsey are different from those operating in the United Kingdom
Looking along the southernmost coast of Guernsey to Pointe de la Moye (Walk 5)
WALKING ON GUERNSEY
Almost a tropical scene, as walkers take a break at a well-appointed beach café
The walks in this guidebook are mostly short and straightforward, chosen to reflect the diversity of the landscapes and seascapes, along with the history, heritage and natural history of Guernsey. Almost all the walks link directly with one or two other walks, allowing all kinds of extensions to the routes. All the walks are easily accessible by bus services, so a car is not necessary.
The islands covered by the Bailiwick of Guernsey have a combined land area of 78km2 (30 square miles) and walkers are never more than 3km (2 miles) from the sea. Within this limited area this guidebook offers around 225km (140 miles) of incredibly varied walking, with a coastal walk alone measuring almost 65km (40 miles). If explorations are extended beyond Guernsey, Alderney, Sark and Herm to Jersey, then the interest and enjoyment is doubled. Complete coastal walks around the five main Channel Islands are now being promoted as the ‘Channel Island Way’, measuring 178km (110 miles).
In the past the Channel Islands were not really viewed as a walking destination. Rather, they were a holiday destination where people simply couldn’t help walking. These days, one third of visitors state that their main reason for visiting the islands is to walk. The sight of golden beaches, rugged cliffs, flowery headlands and lush woodlands prove irresistible for exploring on foot. There are so many things to see along the paths, tracks and roads – interesting places to visit and always the offer of food and drink.
The walks are mostly circular and almost every stretch along the coast features a contrasting exploration inland. It has to be said that there are few paths and tracks inland, and while some roads can be quite busy, there are plenty of quiet country roads too, specially designated as ruettes tranquilles, where priority is given to walkers, cyclists and horse-riders. A few of the walks are entirely inland, because it is important to appreciate the inland countryside and its farming traditions just as much as the popular coastline. Almost every route passes some sort of attraction, ranging from castles to historic houses, churches to craft centres. Many attractions seem to exist purely because they have a captive audience of visitors; those that are on or near the walks are noted, with brief details offered. Many of them have an entry charge and may be well worth an hour’s exploration.
Paths on Guernsey are mostly on firm, dry surfaces, but some stretches may be muddy after rain. Some paths on steep slopes are equipped with plenty of concrete steps. Most of the time a pair of comfortable walking shoes are fine for walking, and hefty boots are not required. If boots are worn, lightweight ones will suffice. There are some signposts, but most paths are obvious even without markers, and it is usually obvious if a path is private. Roads on Guernsey sometimes bear their names at one end or both, which saves confusion when they form a dense network.
There are plenty of walking opportunities inland on Guernsey, where there is a network of lanes
What to take
Generally
