Start/Finish: usually the same place, but sometimes different
Distance: given in kilometres and miles
Terrain: summary of the nature of the terrain and paths used
Maps: OS Landranger and OS Explorer sheet numbers
Refreshments: summary of pubs and cafés on the route
Transport: basic bus frequency and destinations.
CHAPTER 1 GELTSDALE
An old railway trackbed on the way back to Howgill (Walk 2)
The extreme northwestern part of the North Pennines is easily reached by way of Brampton and is dominated by the broad moorland dome of Cold Fell. The ‘mad’ River Gelt drains this area, having its headwaters on boggy moorlands partly protected by the RSPB and partly managed for grouse shooting. The King’s Forest of Geltsdale was established in the 14th century and was notable for the hunting of wild boar.
Four walks in this area are described, starting with an easy and attractive low-level circuit in the countryside near Brampton, which is just outside the AONB boundary. Cold Fell is best climbed in good weather and features extensive views, but the ground underfoot is nearly always awkward and boggy. Don’t expect to meet many walkers on top. (An elderly local farmer once asked the author to point out Cold Fell, on the grounds that he’d heard of it, but never really knew where it was!) The King’s Forest of Geltsdale is explored using tracks and paths around the flanks of the hills, rather than crossing over them. Croglin Fell, on the other hand, is climbed purely for its own sake. Interestingly, Croglin village achieved some notoriety following a series of ‘vampire’ attacks in the 19th century.
Public transport to Brampton is good, both by bus and train, but onward transport is quite limited. Some of the little villages may have a bus service on only one or two days in the week. While a full range of services is available at Brampton, facilities in the nearby villages are limited to occasional pubs, some of which provide accommodation. Bear in mind that accommodation in Brampton comes under considerable pressure in the summer months, as it is within easy reach of the popular Hadrian’s Wall National Trail.
WALK 1
Brampton, Gelt and Talkin
| Start/Finish | Moot Hall, Brampton (NY 531 611) |
| Distance | 15km (9½ miles) |
| Terrain | Gentle field paths, wooded riverside paths and quiet roads. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 86; Explorer 315 |
| Refreshments | Plenty of choice in Brampton. Pub at Talkin. Tea room at Talkin Tarn. |
| Transport | Regular buses and trains serve Brampton from Carlisle and Newcastle. Buses also link Brampton with Alston. |
Brampton is a bustling little market town of some character, centred on its octagonal Moot Hall. It is a splendid gateway to the North Pennines. There is immediate access to the ‘mad’ River Gelt, which rushes through a well-wooded gorge rich in interest and wildlife. The riverside walk links with quiet country roads, later passing the small village of Talkin to reach a popular little country park based around Talkin Tarn. The course of an old horse-drawn railway track, the Dandy Line, leads back to Brampton.
A Roman fort lies close to the River Irthing and a small settlement grew up there in the seventh century. It was later cleared as people transferred to a new site, where Brampton is now situated. A Moot Hall has stood in the centre of the bustling market town since 1648, but the current octagonal structure dates from 1817. The area saw plenty of Borders strife, culminating in the arrival of Bonnie Prince Charlie on his white charger. He made Brampton his headquarters in 1745 during the siege of Carlisle. The mayor and aldermen of Carlisle travelled to Brampton to hand over the keys to the city.
Spend time wandering around Brampton, taking in St Martin’s Church, Prince Charlie’s House, the old stocks, the site of an old bullring, and plenty of fine buildings. Facilities include banks with ATMs, post office, accommodation, plenty of shops, pubs and restaurants. The tourist information centre is in the Moot Hall, tel 01697 73433, open Easter to October, except Sundays.
Follow Front Street away from the centre of Brampton, past St Martin’s Church, to continue along Carlisle Road. Turn left as signposted for Carlisle along a road called Elmfield. At the top of the road, turn left again through a gate to follow a field path, enjoying views of the northern Lake District and southern Scotland. Cross a road and turn right to follow Capon Tree Road. Big beeches grow beside a couple of houses, then a stone memorial marks the spot where the Capon Tree once grew.
Following the retreat of Bonnie Prince Charlie, his local supporters were hung from the branches of the Capon Tree. The tree no longer exists, but is marked by a stone monument planted in 1904. Its name is derived from the capons eaten in its shade by assize judges travelling to Carlisle. They were in the habit of breaking their journey at the tree in order to accept bribes from litigants in advance of court proceedings!
Keep straight ahead to cross the busy A69 with great care. Pick up the continuation of the Capon Tree Road, following Bonnie Prince Charlie’s route towards Carlisle, at least as far as Low Geltbridge. Don’t cross the bridge, but peer over its parapet to see the River Gelt cutting through a dark, red sandstone gorge.
The River Gelt’s name is derived from the Norse ‘geilt’, meaning ‘mad’, and is locally known as the ‘Mad River’, flowing fast, furious and frenzied at times. The red sandstone in this area was quarried by the Romans for use at Hadrian’s Wall. With expert guidance you could locate the ‘Written Rock of Gelt’, where Roman quarrymen carved their names. The varied woodlands support birds such as wood warblers, tree-creepers, pied flycatchers, woodpeckers, song thrushes and blackcaps. Roe deer and red squirrels can be spotted with patience. Mosses, liverworts, fungi and ferns thrive in damp and shaded locations.
A path has been built in the ‘mad’ River Gelt, leading walkers upstream through the woods
Turn left through a car park to follow a well-wooded path upstream beside the River Gelt. Keep right at a path junction to remain close to the river and study its narrow rocky channel. Part of the path has been built in the river, then there are steps leading uphill.
Pass old quarry faces, where the path climbs above the river then descends to cross a bridge over Hell Beck. The little stream of Hell Beck is reputed to have flowed red with blood for three days after a battle in 1570. Climb from the river again, then head downhill and pass some small waterfalls. The path suddenly emerges from the woods to join a road, which is followed straight ahead beneath the towering arches of a railway viaduct.
Middle Gate Viaduct was one of the earliest skew-arched viaducts in the country, completed in 1853. The masonry is reputed to have been modelled with carved chunks of turnip, so that the stonemasons and engineers could understand how the odd-shaped blocks would support the arch.
Follow the road up through a crossroads and continue to the little village
