goes through a wooded gorge, then forks. Both routes lead to the Lindauer Hut, but on this occasion keep to the left branch. After going through mixed woods you emerge to open meadows and the scattered chalets and haybarns of Volspora. Ahead can be seen the Sulzfluh and its glacier.
At the far end of the meadows another track breaks left to Alpilaalpe, but ignore this and keep ahead to Volsporaalpe (1234m) where, should you be in need of refreshment, a path descends to the river, then climbs the opposite bank to the Gauertalhaus. If refreshment is not required, remain on the track which now rises to another level where long fingers of coniferous trees come down into the valley. When the track forks again, keep ahead, remaining on the east side of the river.
The Drei Turme above the Lindauer Hut
After crossing another alpine meadow with a solitary barn in it, the track twists up through forest (unmarked footpath shortcuts), and above this you rise through more pastures to a T junction of tracks. Bear left. As the track returns to forest more footpath shortcuts can be taken. One of these makes a long, steady uphill slant, and on rejoining the track, the hut can be seen ahead. Walk up the track, bear left when it forks, and shortly after, arrive at the Lindauer Hut. Note the alpine garden located on its western side.
The Category I Lindauer Hut has 60 beds and 140 dormitory places. Staffed from the end of February to the end of March, and from June to mid-October, it is owned by the Lindau section of the DAV (tel 0664 5033456 www.alpenverein-lindau.de).
For an alternative return to Latschau, try the left-bank path and track by way of Gauen. Although steep in places in the early stages, the way eases lower down and makes a very pleasant walk in its own right.
A 3hrs 15mins link with the Tilisuna Hut is described from the Lindauer Hut as part of the Rätikon Höhenweg Nord (Route 5), and is recommended.
ROUTE 7
Tilisuna Hut (2211m) – Sulzfluh (2818m)
| Start | Tilisuna Hut (2211m) |
| Valley base | Tschagguns |
| Distance | 3km (one way) |
| Height gain | 607m |
| Grade | 3 |
| Time | 2hrs ( + 1hr descent) |
| Location | Southwest of the Tilisuna Hut at the head of the Gampadelstal |
The Sulzfluh is a mountain with two faces. Its south (Swiss) side soars above screes in a formidable wall, but its northeast flank is much less severe with an approach dominated by a vast region of limestone pavement that leads to the final lumpy tower of the summit. The route described here is probably the easiest on the mountain, being little more than a walk, although care should be taken when crossing the limestone pavement – especially in misty conditions, as there are numerous deep fissures – and the snow patches that often linger on the upper slopes.
On leaving the Tilisuna Hut take the path signed to the Lindauer Hut, then keep ahead when it forks after 5mins. The trail rises through a shallow grass scoop, then up a spur before angling left to gain height at a steady gradient. About 30mins from the hut you come onto a ridge and the start of the limestone pavement where cairns and paint flashes guide the way.
The 2818m Sulzfluh can be climbed by an undemanding route from the Tilisuna Hut
This is a broad, almost featureless terrain that demands concentration, but views include the Drusenfluh and distant Schesaplana, while the cross on the Sulzfluh’s summit is clearly seen ahead. The trail meanders across the pavement, avoiding numerous deep fissures that have been cut into it, then goes up a slope (the path breaking into several strands) to gain an upper section of ridge and a signed junction. (The right branch is used on the ascent from the Lindauer Hut.)
The ridge narrows after this junction, and the path works along limestone ribs to be joined by a trail bringing a route from the Swiss side. It is here that the final ascent begins up rough slopes (sometimes snow ramps), still guided by cairns and paint flashes to mount the summit tower by its easiest side. The summit of the Sulzfluh is crowned by a huge wooden cross, and the panoramic view is immense.
OTHER ROUTES IN THE RÄTIKON ALPS
The seven routes described above represent some of the best walking opportunities in the Rätikon Alps, but there are, of course, scores more. A glance at the map is sufficient to reveal numerous walks of varying length and degree of difficulty, and the following outline suggestions may help focus your attention.
From Brand a 2½hr route heading southwest through the Zalimtal leads to the Oberzalim Hut at 1889m near the head of the valley beneath the Schesaplana.
An extension of the Oberzalim Hut walk takes the demanding Leibertsteig route up to the Mannheimer Hut, the highest in the Rätikon Alps at 2679m; while another trail heads roughly westward, crosses the Spusagangscharte (2237m), descends to Nenzinger Himmel (accommodation) in the Gamperdonatal, and returns to Brand via the 2028m Amatschonjoch, for a rewarding two-day trek.
Several walks have already been described from the Douglass Hut, but instead of either following the Rätikon Höhenweg Nord, or descending to Brand at the end of your visit, an alternative way out follows the Saulajochsteig north of the Lünersee, crosses the Saulajoch (2065m), descends to the Heinrich-Hueter Hut, then wanders down the length of the Rellstal to Vandans in the Montafon valley – a walk of about 4hrs.
A Wanderbus operates a daily service in summer from Vandans through the Rellstal to Alpengasthof Rellstal at 1490m. This gives access to a number of trails that explore the mountains to south, east and west, among them the Lünerweg leading to the Douglass Hut via the Lünerkrinne, and a straightforward route continuing south to the Obere Zaluandialpe, up to the Schweizertor, then east across the Öfapass to the Lindauer Hut.
The Golmerbahn from Vandans provides a fast and easy way to reach the sprawling ridge which forms a divide between the Rellstal and Gauertal. From the top Bergstation Golmerbahn at 1880m a large number of walks become possible, among them one which goes to the Lindauer Hut in just 1½hrs, and another leading to Alpengasthof Rellstal in 2hrs on a walk via Platzisalpe.
A very pleasant 2½–3hr high route takes walkers from the Tschagguns-Grabs chairlift (1393m) up to the scenic Tobelsee, and across the 2166m Schwarzhornsattel to gain the Tilisuna Hut. A longer alternative walk from Tschagguns to the Tilisuna Hut follows a farm road into the Gampadelstal, but then breaks off on a footpath known as the Herrawegli from the Gampadels Alpe. This leads to the hut via the Walseralpe and Tilisunasee.
2 SILVRETTA ALPS
The main ridge of the Silvretta group carries the frontier south and east of the Rätikon Alps, extending beyond the boundaries of Vorarlberg into the Tyrol, and across the border into the Swiss canton of Graubunden. But while the Rätikon is limestone, the Silvretta is crystalline, and a number of its mountains are daubed with snowfields and glaciers, which add a certain majesty to their 3000m summits.
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