The River Rhone Cycle Route. Mike Wells
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Amenities and services
Grocery shops
All cities, towns and larger villages passed through have grocery stores, often supermarkets, and most have pharmacies. Even small villages have boulangeries (bakers), which open early and produce fresh bread throughout the day. Shop opening hours vary and in southern France many shops close in the afternoon between 1.00pm and 4.00pm.
Cycle shops
The route is well provided with cycle shops, most with repair facilities. Locations are listed in the stage descriptions, although this is not exhaustive. Many cycle shops will adjust brakes and gears, or lubricate your chain, while you wait, often not seeking reimbursement for minor repairs. Touring cyclists should not abuse this generosity and always offer to pay, even if this is refused.
Currency and banks
France switched from the French franc to the euro in 2002. In Switzerland the Swiss franc (CHF) is used. This is a very strong currency, which has appreciated noticeably against the euro in recent years making prices in Switzerland relatively high. In places near the Franco/Swiss border it is usually considerably cheaper to eat, drink and sleep in France rather than Switzerland Almost every town has a bank and most have ATM machines, which enable you to make transactions in English. Contact your bank to activate your bankcard for use in Europe.
Telephone and internet
The whole route has mobile phone (German; handy) coverage. Contact your network provider to ensure your phone is enabled for foreign use with the most economic price package. International dialling codes from UK (+44) are:
+41 Switzerland
+33 France
Most hotels, guest houses and hostels make internet access available to guests, usually free but sometimes for a small fee.
Electricity
Voltage is 220v, 50HzAC. Plugs are standard European two-pin round, although a three-pin version (with centre earth pin) is common in Switzerland.
What to take
Clothing and personal items
Even though the route is predominantly downhill, weight should be kept to a minimum. You will need clothes for cycling (shoes, socks, shorts/trousers, shirt, fleece, waterproofs) and clothes for evenings and days-off. The best maxim is two of each, ‘one to wear, one to wash’. Time of year makes a difference as you need more and warmer clothing in April/May and September/October. All of this clothing should be capable of washing en route, and a small tube or bottle of travel wash is useful. A sun-hat and sun glasses are essential, while gloves and a woolly hat are advisable except in high summer.
In addition to your usual toiletries you will need sun cream and lip salve. You should take a simple first-aid kit. If staying in hostels you will need a towel and torch (your cycle light should suffice).
Cycle equipment
Everything you take needs to be carried on your cycle. If overnighting in accommodation, a pair of rear panniers should be sufficient to carry all your clothing and equipment, but if camping, you may also need front panniers. Panniers should be 100 percent watertight. If in doubt, pack everything inside a strong polythene lining bag. Rubble bags, obtainable from builders’ merchants, are ideal for this purpose. A bar-bag is a useful way of carrying items you need to access quickly such as maps, sunglasses, camera, spare tubes, puncture-kit and tools. A transparent map case attached to the top of your bar-bag is an ideal way of displaying maps and guidebook.
Your cycle should be fitted with mudguards and bell, and be capable of carrying water bottles, pump and lights. Many cyclists fit an odometer to measure distances. A basic tool-kit should consist of puncture repair kit, spanners, Allen keys, adjustable spanner, screwdriver, spoke key and chain repair tool. The only essential spares are two spare tubes. On a long cycle ride, sometimes on dusty tracks, your chain will need regular lubrication and you should either carry a can of spray-lube or make regular visits to cycle shops. A good strong lock is advisable.
Safety and emergencies
Weather
The first half of the route is in the continental climate zone, typified by warm dry summers interspersed with short periods of heavy rain and cold winters. Below Lyon the route enters the Mediterranean zone with hot dry summers and mild damp autumns and winters. The greatest rainfall is in autumn and often occurs in heavy downpours. The beginning of Stage 1 is exposed to mountain weather with heavy winter snowfall, which in some years can remain on the ground until June.
The Rhone valley south of Lyon and the Mediterranean coast are subject to the Mistral, a strong cold but dry wind that blows from the north to the south down the valley. It is most common in winter and spring, but can occur at any time of year. Mistral winds often exceed 40kph during the day, but die down at night. As the route in this guide runs north to south, if the Mistral is blowing it will be behind you!
Road safety
Throughout the route, cycling is on the right side of the road. If you have never cycled before on the right you will quickly adapt, but roundabouts may prove challenging. You are most prone to mistakes when setting off each morning. Both Switzerland and France are very cycle-friendly countries. Drivers will normally give you plenty of space when overtaking and often wait behind patiently until space to pass is available.
Much of the route is on dedicated cycle paths, although care is necessary as these are sometimes shared with pedestrians. Use your bell, politely, when approaching pedestrians from behind. Where you are required to cycle on the road there is usually a dedicated cycle lane. Some city and town centres have pedestrian only zones. These restrictions are often only loosely enforced and you may find local residents cycling within them, indeed many zones have signs allowing cycling. Many one-way streets have signs permitting contra-flow cycling.
None of the countries passed through require compulsory wearing of cycle helmets, although their use is recommended. Modern lightweight helmets with improved ventilation have made wearing them more comfortable.
In Switzerland, cycling after drinking alcohol has the same 50mg/100ml limit as drink-driving (English drink-driving limit is 80mg/100ml). If you cycle after drinking and are caught you could be fined and banned from driving and cycling in Switzerland.
Emergencies
In the unlikely event of an accident, the standardised EU and Swiss emergency phone number is 112. The entire route has mobile phone coverage. Provided you have an EHIC card issued by your home country, medical costs of EU and Swiss citizens are covered under reciprocal health insurance agreements, although you may have to pay for an ambulance and claim the cost back through insurance.
Theft
In general the route is safe and the risk of theft very low, particularly in Switzerland. However, you should always lock your cycle and watch your belongings, especially in cities.
Insurance
Travel insurance policies usually cover you when cycle touring but they do not normally cover damage to, or theft of, your bicycle. If you have a household contents policy, this may cover cycle theft, but limits may be less than the real cost of your cycle. Cycle Touring Club (CTC),