The GR10 Trail. Brian Johnson

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The GR10 Trail - Brian  Johnson

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      Vallée de la Canau (Stage 19)

      AUTHOR’S PREFACE

      Having walked the Pyrenean High-level Route and GR11 many times, I was apprehensive that the GR10 would be the poor relation to these coast to coast routes across the Pyrenees. However, I was delighted to find the GR10 to be every bit as good as these two magnificent routes.

      The first Cicerone guide to the GR10 by Alan Castle was published in 1990. His work was taken on by Paul Lucia whose new guide was published in 2002. Unfortunately Paul died in 2007 and, despite updates by Ton Joosten, it was time for a new guide as the GR10 had gradually evolved, with improvements to the route and changes to accommodation and other facilities. This completely new guide includes all changes made to the route up to 2015.

      It is now just about possible to walk the GR10 without camping or using bothies and this guide is organised into 55 stages for the benefit of those who are using accommodation along the route. Walkers who, like the author, prefer wild camping in the mountains will find much greater flexibility in their planning.

      Brian Johnson

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      Mont Valier from ponds below the Bouche d’Aula (Stage 34)

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      The north face of Vignemale from Oulètes de Gaube (Stages 18 and 19)

      The Pyrenees, the mountain chain which forms the border between France and Spain, stretches over 400km from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. The GR10 is the easiest, oldest and most popular of the three long-distance routes that traverse the mountain range.

      It is an extremely well-waymarked route following good mountain paths, with only a few tough stages with boulderfields to cross and occasional scrambling. Towns and villages are frequent so finding accommodation and supplies is rarely a problem.

      Initially the GR10 follows ridges over the steep rolling hills of the Basque Country before reaching the impressive limestone peaks at the western end of the High Pyrenees. The fantastic Alpine scenery of the High Pyrenees includes a number of tourist hotspots, including the Pic du Midi d’Ossau, Vignemale and Gavarnie. After Bagnères-de-Luchon the GR10 passes into the less-frequented Ariège where the route crosses a succession of deep valleys with occasional returns to spectacular Alpine terrain. As the Mediterranean is approached the Canigou massif dominates the scene and the terrain remains mountainous with the final 1000m peak being only a few miles from the route’s end at Banyuls-sur-Mer.

      The highlight of the GR10 for many walkers isn’t the mountains or the fauna, but the magnificent wildflower meadows, and the associated butterflies, which you will walk through most days on your traverse of the Pyrenees.

      At 954km in length with a total climb of 53,000m, taking approximately 315 hours to complete, the GR10 is too long for most hikers to do in a single trip and most will break it up into sections and walk it over several years. There are good bus and rail links throughout the French Pyrenees so there is plenty of choice when splitting into sections. For convenience, this guide has been divided into four sections, which fit in well with the rail links. See Appendix A for a route summary table.

      For a fit walker, it would be possible to complete the entire trek in around 45 days by combining stages. This would require some planning ahead to ensure daily distances are realistic and accommodation options fit the intended schedule.

      Section 1: Hendaye-Plage to Etsaut (Stages 1–12)

      As the GR10 leaves the border town of Hendaye on the Atlantic coast it follows ridges over the steep, grassy and wooded rolling hills of the Basque Country. After nine stages there is a rapid transition to the steep limestone peaks at the western end of the High Pyrenees. Section totals: 221km; 11,300m; 68 hours.

      Section 2: Etsaut to Bagnères-de-Luchon (Stages 13–26)

      This is the most spectacular section of the GR10, passing through the High Pyrenees, which rise to over 3000m, crossing high passes that may be snow-covered well into summer. The fantastic scenery in this section means that you will be passing a number of tourist hot-spots, including the Pic du Midi d’Ossau, Vignemale and Gavarnie. Section totals: 253km; 14,400m ascent; 85 hours.

      Section 3: Bagnères-de-Luchon to Mérens-les-Vals (Stages 27–43)

      In this section, the border between France and Spain (or Andorra) is well north of the watershed and the GR10 passes through the Ariège. These mountains aren’t quite as high as the High Pyrenees, but the route crosses a succession of deep valleys cut out by the huge glaciers that flowed north from the Pyrenees in the last Ice Age, meaning that there is a lot of climb. The Ariège has never been as popular as the High Pyrenees so there is often a feeling of remoteness, and facilities for walkers are harder to find. Section totals: 265km; 17,600m ascent; 98 hours.

      Section 4: Mérens-les-Vals to Banyuls-sur-Mer (Stages 44–55)

      The first few days of this section are through spectacular Alpine terrain, after which the mountains become gentler. After the dominating Canigou massif is passed, the terrain becomes drier but remains mountainous, with the final 1000m peak being only a few miles from Banyuls-sur-Mer. Section totals: 215km; 9700m ascent; 64 hours.

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      Pont d’Espagne (Stage 18)

      The GR10 doesn’t pass over many summits, but suggestions are made in the route descriptions for climbing many of the easier peaks along the route, often from cols over which the GR10 passes. If you want to climb some of the higher, more difficult peaks you should ask for advice from the guardians of the refuges.

      It would be possible to walk the GR10 from Mediterranean to Atlantic, but this guide describes the route from the Atlantic so that you have the prevailing wind/rain on your back and you have time to acclimatise to the heat before reaching the Mediterranean, with the added advantage that in hot weather the steep climbs can often be done in the shade of early morning.

      The author noted a lot of minor changes to the route between 2014 and 2015 as the Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre (FFRP) are continually trying to improve the route, so don’t be surprised if the route doesn’t always fit with the route description. However route changes are well waymarked and can be followed with confidence.

      The Pyrenees is traversed by three long-distance routes coast to coast: the GR10, the High-level Route (Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne, HRP) and the GR11 (la Senda Pirenaica). All three routes provide varied and scenic treks through magnificent, often remote, high or deserted

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