Tour of the Jungfrau Region. Kev Reynolds
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Trailfinders – www.trailfinders.com – specialists for independent travellers
By train
With a combination of Eurostar from London’s St Pancras to Paris via the Channel Tunnel, followed by TGV to Lausanne, high-speed rail travel provides a viable (but possibly more expensive) alternative for those who prefer not to fly. Currently Eurostar operates at least 14 trains per day for the 3hr+ journey between St Pancras and the Gare du Nord in Paris, where you transfer to the Gare du Lyon for TGV departure to Lausanne – a journey of around 4½hr. Change at Lausanne for Bern, and again at Bern for Interlaken Ost. Then on to Wilderswil for the Schynige Platte cog railway, as outlined above.
On a day of storm, the Wetterhorn pierces the clouds as two walkers approach First (Stage 1)
For up-to-date rail information, contact Rail Europe www.raileurope.com. Note that the Switzerland Travel Centre can take reservations for Eurostar, TGV and Swiss rail travel (tel freephone 00800 100 200 30).
Under 26?
Consider purchasing a Billet International de Jeunesse (BIJ) for discounts of up to 50 per cent on international rail journeys. Contact Rail Europe, 179 Piccadilly, London W1 (for website details see above).
Internet train times
To work out your Swiss rail journey in advance, log on to www.sbb.ch, and feed in details of the journey’s start, destination and date of travel. You will receive all the information you require, including station platform numbers where a change of train is needed.
When to go
The season for high-level walking in the Alps is dictated by the amount and timing of the previous winter’s snowfall, restrictions imposed by the onset of cold, inclement weather in the autumn and, where a multi-day journey is involved, the availability of accommodation.
Working within these limitations, in a ‘normal’ summer the best time to tackle the Tour of the Jungfrau Region will be from late June to the end of September, but bear in mind that frequent thunderstorms are common until about mid-August. As the Bernese Oberland is the first of the major Alpine districts to collect weather patterns flowing across northwest Europe, it attracts more rain and low cloud than most of its neighbouring high mountain regions.
Handrails and metal rungs aid a steep section of the Schilthorn’s West Ridge (Stage 8)
The summer high season – when all facilities are open, trails at their busiest and prices at their highest – runs throughout July and August. Given the freedom to choose September, which often enjoys settled conditions, could be seen then as the optimum month to tackle the TJR. Try to avoid walking Stage 5 on the first Saturday in September when this section of the tour as far as Trummelbach becomes part of the Jungfrau Marathon course. Accommodation in or near Kleine Scheidegg could also be at a premium that weekend.
For a four-day weather forecast before you go, check the website of MeteoSwiss: www.meteo.ch.
Language
German (or, to be more precise, Schwyzerdütsch) is the regional language of Canton Bern, although English is widely understood throughout the area trekked by the TJR. A basic German/English primer will be found in Appendix C.
Notes for walkers
Although the route described in this guide makes a journey through one of Europe’s most challenging mountain districts, no technical skills are demanded of the trekker tackling the TJR. However, there are several short exposed sections (mostly safeguarded with fixed cable handrail), and a few places where metal rungs or ladders aid the ascent or descent of a rock slab or, as on the ascent of the Schilthorn, a steep section of ridge. Apart from these, trails are mostly straightforward and well maintained, but if wet from rain or snowmelt, or skimmed with a glaze of ice, there could be some potentially dangerous sections demanding extra care.
As mentioned earlier, the frequency of accommodation and places of refreshment enable the walker to tackle the route without the need to carry a bulging rucksack, but to gain the maximum enjoyment from the trek you will need to be fit. There are a number of steep inclines and a few long stages that will be easier to face if you’ve made an effort to get yourself in shape before leaving home. The best way of doing this is by taking regular exercise. You won’t regret it.
Once you’ve begun the trek, settle to a comfortable pace and don’t lose sight of your companions.
Please be considerate when making a toilet stop during the day. Keep well away from water sources, burn used toilet paper, and bury faeces as effectively as possible. Remember that derelict buildings should not be used as public conveniences; they could serve as a shelter from storm for yourself and other walkers. And please leave no litter, but take used packaging home for proper disposal.
WHAT TO TAKE
The choice of footwear is of prime importance. Boots should fit well, be comfortable, and broken in before leaving home. They need to provide sound ankle support and have thick cleated soles (Vibram or similar) with plenty of grip.
Good waterproofs are essential, not only for protection against rain, but to double as windproofs. Jacket and overtrousers made from a ‘breathable’ fabric are recommended, as is a lightweight collapsible umbrella – indispensible for those who wear glasses.
Even in mid-summer conditions can seem wintry above 2000m on sunless or windy days, so a fleece or pile jacket should also be taken, plus a warm hat and gloves. Note that one of the simplest and most effective ways of regulating body temperature is to either wear or remove your hat and gloves.
As well as protection against wet and cold, you should be prepared for extremes of sunshine and heat – the intensity of UV rays increases by 10 per cent with every 1000m of altitude gained. A brimmed hat, ultra-high factor suncream, lipsalve and sunglasses should therefore be taken. Wear lightweight layers that can be easily removed in hot weather.
Carry a first aid kit, water bottle (1 litre minimum capacity), guidebook, map, compass, headtorch with spare bulb and batteries, and a whistle. Also a penknife and emergency food.
Take a lightweight towel and personal toiletries (plus toilet paper and lighter), and a sheet sleeping bag for use in huts and dormitories.
Telescopic trekking poles have numerous uses, and will ease the strain on legs during steep descents.
Your rucksack should fit comfortably, with the waistbelt adjusted to take the