shoots for grouse to feed on, as well as dense ‘leggy’ heather for shelter. Heather seeds are fairly resistant to fire, but in places where heather is over-burnt, invasive bracken is quick to take hold. Some heather moorlands also feature bilberry and crowberry, while the higher, bleaker, boggier moorlands are home to an interesting arctic remnant – cloudberry.
Cloudberries, arctic remnant plants, only grow on the highest and bleakest parts of the Pennine Way
There is very little tillage on Pennine farms, and most fields are managed as pastures for farm stock. Some fields are managed for hay, and in the dale-heads of the North Pennines, haymaking comes so late in the summer that wildflowers have a chance to drop their seeds, making the meadows rich in species and remarkably colourful.
The range of plants thriving in Upper Teesdale owes its existence to several factors. Arctic/alpine species survive because the climate in this bleak region suits them, keeping taller and more competitive plants at bay. The underlying crumbling ‘sugar limestone’ suits some species, while others grow on sodden, acid peat bogs. Plants that once grew in well-wooded areas now survive by adapting to life in the shade of boulders and cliffs. Many people have heard of the spring gentian, which is strikingly blue on sunny days in early summer, but few know where to find it. Large expanses of juniper are easily spotted, but in recent years a fungal disease has attacked these. Other species of note include the mountain pansy, alpine bistort, bird’s eye primrose, globe flower, Teesdale violet and blue moor grass. These grow alongside more commonplace wild thyme, tormentil, thrift and harebells, while wood anemones and woodland ferns have adapted to non-wooded habitats. The ‘Teesdale Assemblage’ of plants are survivors from bygone ages, reminding visitors how habitats have changed over time.
THE PENNINE WAY
Halfway up the slopes of Knock Fell with the Lake District visible beyond (Day 14)
DAY 1
Edale to Torside
| Start | Railway Station, Edale, SK 123 853 |
| Finish | The Old House, Torside, SK 049 978 |
| Distance | 25.5km (16 miles) |
| Total ascent | 680m (2230ft) |
| Total descent | 680m (2230ft) |
| Time | 8hrs |
| Terrain | Elevated, extensive and exposed boggy moorlands, with several stretches of firm flagstone path. Careful navigation is required on some stretches in mist. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 110, OS Explorer OL1, Harvey’s Pennine Way South |
| Refreshments | Pubs and cafés at Edale. Café at Torside. |
In its earliest days, the Pennine Way left Edale in two directions. The ‘main’ route made a direct ascent of Kinder Scout, crossing soft peat bogs that proved very confusing in mist, while the ‘alternative’ route skirted round the edge of the plateau. The top of Kinder Scout became very badly over-trodden, so the Pennine Way now follows only one route out of Edale, staying on firm ground. The moors between Kinder Scout and Bleaklow were once trodden into a filthy quagmire, but now boast fine flagstone paths. Attention to route-finding is necessary on Bleaklow, where some walkers drift off-course. Bear in mind that this is a hard day’s walk, and some trekkers realise too late that they are not equal to the task. The final descent of the day is quite awkward and rugged underfoot. Originally, this first stage ended at Crowden, but in recent years most wayfarers stop at the Old House at Torside.
EDALE
This little village can be overwhelmed by visitors, especially on summer weekends. If arriving by train, simply follow the road a short way into the village. The Moorland Centre (open daily from April to September, free entry, tel 01433 670207), a Peak District National Park visitor centre, is worth exploring. The unusual building has a waterfall at its entrance and a lush sedum roof. There are a couple of pubs and cafés, as well as a post office and general store. If planning to stay overnight, there are campsites, bunkhouses, B&Bs and a nearby youth hostel.
The Pennine Way starts, whatever the weather, at the Old Nags Head in Edale
The Pennine Way starts in the centre of Edale at the Old Nags Head, around 250m (820ft). The first signpost is across the road from the pub, pointing towards a commemorative gate that was erected in 2015 for the 50th anniversary of the route. An obvious path climbs gently beside a little streambed flanked by trees. Emerge from the trees and turn left to follow a flagstone path up through a few fields, passing through gates; there are fine views across the dale to Mam Tor and Lose Hill. Continue gently up an earth path through a couple more fields, then head down through more fields to pick up an enclosed path and track past Upper Booth Farm, which has a campsite and a group bunkhouse.
Turn right along a narrow road, crossing a bridge over a stream and passing fields to reach Lee Farm. The Lee Barn Information Shelter is here, containing interesting notices and offering shelter from inclement weather. Follow a track onwards, passing through gates from field to field to reach a narrow, stone packhorse bridge at the foot of Jacob’s Ladder.
Turn left or right – left being a long and stony loop once used by packhorses, right being a shorter, steeper, stone-pitched path. Both routes meet at a cairn and a stony path climbs onwards. Towards the top, turn right along a flagstone path. Climb a short, steep slope of grass, with tufts of bilberry. When a sprawling cairn is reached in a slight dip, keep left to follow a clear path, passing big boulders and gritstone outcrops. Take care in mist while crossing broad, bare peat. Pass a trig point on top of a gritstone outcrop on Kinder Low, at 633m (2077ft).
Trig point on a gritstone outcrop at Kinder Low
Walk across an area denuded of vegetation and peat, where the gritstone bedrock is often seen. Keep right to follow a path round the edge of the broad moorland plateau, heading roughly north above Cluther Rocks. The path is sometimes narrow and occasionally involves hopping from boulder to boulder and slab to slab. Follow the path to reach the waterfall, Kinder Downfall. Cross a stream above the waterfall, taking care on blustery days, as the wind can flip all the water back up into the streambed, soaking the unwary! This is a very popular lunch spot, but don’t linger too long as the day has barely started.
Keep following the gritstone edge, where a path gradually rises, crossing a fence and reaching rock outcrops on Sandy Heys. This point was gained during the famous 1932 mass trespass, when it was all private property. What a contrast today, when walkers have every right to be here – a right they exercise in great numbers! In mist, don’t be tempted to follow a path downhill, but stay on the broadest, clearest path, which turns right and climbs a little to reach a sprawling cairn. Keep left of the cairn to pick up a steep, stone-pitched path leading down to the grassy gap of Ashop Head, around 510m (1675ft).
A flagstone path heads left, but the Pennine Way keeps right along a broad and stony path. Pass a prominent marker post where another path crosses, and climb straight over a grassy hump to reach another gap. A flagstone path climbs straight uphill, giving way to a broad, stony path leading to a cairn at 544m (1785ft) on top of Mill Hill. Paths cross on the summit, so turn right to follow another flagstone
