without getting spoilt. The name comes from the French word la rôblosse, meaning second milking, and dates back to the time when all the land and cattle belonged to the church, and the peasants were taxed on the amount of milk they produced. They used to trick the monks by pretending they had finished milking the cows and then, as soon as the monks were out of sight, they would do a second milking, which was the richest and creamiest, producing a smooth, mild cheese.
Cheese can also be melted to make fondue or raclette, frequently served on ski holidays in the French Alps, but a less well-known dish is tartiflette. Made from Reblochon cheese, it consists of layers of cooked potatoes garnished with onion and slivers of bacon and then covered with a whole cheese, the rind uppermost. It is then put under the grill until the cheese is crusty and bubbling – worth trying. Cheese platters are often accompanied by dried or smoked meats, and by nuts or locally grown fruit such as apples, pears and figs.
There are several varieties of freshwater fish to be found, such as trout, pike, crayfish, perch and the omble chevalier, a species of arctic char found mainly in deep mountain waters such as Lac d’Annecy, but now also artificially farmed near Thonon.
In autumn you will often see locals collecting mushrooms and picking berries, and tarte aux myrtilles, a delicious bilberry tart, is sometimes on offer in a mountain refuge. Another local speciality is matafan, a thick pancake which can be eaten with salt or sugar.
The white wines of Savoie are an excellent accompaniment to cheese or fish dishes, with Chasselas, Crépy, Ripaille and Roussette to choose from, the latter from a type of vine originating in Cyprus and brought to the Frangy-Seyssel region at the time of the Crusades. After a meal it is worth trying a locally made digestif such as génépi, a herbal liqueur made from the dried leaves of the wormwood plant, or eau de vie de gentiane, made from the roots of the yellow gentian flower. And last but not least are the renowned mineral waters from the towns of Thonon and Evian-les-Bains.
Roussette de Frangy wine (Walk 6)
You will find regional produce in local markets, which are great fun to wander round even if you have no intention of buying, and local cheeses can often be bought directly from the farms you pass on the walks. See Appendix B for market days.
What to take
As with all mountainous regions, the weather in the Haute Savoie can change rapidly without warning, and a careful choice of clothing and equipment is essential for your safety and security. The best solution is to dress in layers and to carry a light fleece and a waterproof anorak, even if the forecast is good. Lightweight, quick-drying trousers are the most comfortable for walking – those that zip down into shorts are very practical, as even on hot days you may need long trousers to avoid getting scratched by undergrowth. Protection against the sun is important, especially at higher altitudes where ultraviolet rays are more intense.
Cornettes de Bise from the Col de Vernaz (Walk 22)
The most important piece of equipment for mountain walking is a pair of comfortable boots, with ankle support and Vibram-type soles with a good tread. Proper walking socks can also make an enormous difference to foot comfort.
For day walks, a light 20–30-litre rucksack is sufficient, with a padded back and waist strap, and with side and top pockets for small items. Some of the larger trekking rucksacks have a big top pocket, which can be detached and used as a day pack. Many rucksacks now come with a waterproof cover, or these can be bought separately.
Trekking poles are now used by almost everyone when mountain walking, and are especially useful in helping with balance on rough terrain and taking stress off the knees on steep descents. The lightest available are made of carbon fibre, and lever-lock adjustments are the easiest to use.
A whistle and a good-quality compass are essential in the mountains, and an altimeter and GPS are useful in bad weather or if you get lost. A mobile phone can be life-saving if you have an accident. Unfortunately, the more remote mountain areas are often out of network coverage.
There has been no let-up in the evolution of GPS technology over the past 20 years, with increased power of sophisticated hand-held units, including custom maps for downloading, and access to more satellites (including Russian ones). Although you should always carry a quality compass, many GPS units now incorporate a compass and an altimeter, based on barometric pressure and/or satellite trigonometry.
It is worth checking the market carefully before purchasing a GPS unit, putting the accent on good signal reception and battery life, good screen visibility in bright light, easy operation, robust and not too large and heavy. There is also a learning curve, but the effort is well-rewarded and Pete Hawkin’s Cicerone guide Navigating with a GPS gives a useful introduction.
Manufacturers’ maps for GPS download are usually very expensive, and the French IGN 1:25,000 products are no exception. However, there are open software products that are surprising effective and versatile, with special mention for openmtbmap.org (‘mtb’ covers mountain biking and hiking).
EQUIPMENT LIST
The following is a suggested list for your rucksack on a day walk:
the route description from this walking guide
the IGN 1:25,000 map recommended in the walk information box
waterproof anorak
cape or poncho to cover everything, including your rucksack – useful when it is really pouring, and for sitting on
lightweight fleece or sweater
warm hat, gloves and scarf (in cold weather)
spare socks
sun hat, sunglasses, high factor sun cream and lipsalve
basic first-aid kit, including insect repellent and moleskin for blisters
survival blanket
picnic and snacks (sweets, chocolate, high energy bars, dried fruit and nuts)
water bottle – it is essential to take plenty of water; avoid drinking from mountain streams or dubious drinking troughs and fountains
mobile phone, whistle, torch, penknife, compass, altimeter
optional extras: GPS, camera, binoculars, reference books (for flowers or birds)
If you are staying overnight in a refuge, add the following:
wash gear and small towel
change of clothes
sheet sleeping bag (silk ones are the lightest); all the refuges in the Haute Savoie provide blankets
a head torch is very useful (especially if there is only an outside toilet)
tracksuit for relaxing in the evening and for sleeping in
lightweight trainers (most refuges provide hut shoes but this is not guaranteed)
playing cards and/or book – in case you are holed up by
