feature which constitutes a perfect landscape of the extensive sort is here not only boldly marked, but in its best position’. JMW Turner stayed a little longer to capture the scene at the Crook o’Lune and painted a landscape from beside the church at Kirkby Lonsdale. The picture so impressed Ruskin that he took the trouble to go and see for himself and the spot became known as ’Ruskin’s View’ and not Turner’s.
Wildlife
With little habitation and no industry along its course, the River Lune is one of England’s cleanest rivers and consequently rich in wildlife. It is one of the most important salmon rivers in the country, and the fish returning upriver from the Atlantic to breed can sometimes be seen leaping from the water. Sea and river trout are also among the fish frequenting the river. Once abundant, too, were eels that breed in the Sargasso Sea but grow and mature in the estuaries and rivers of western Europe. Rare, but still present, are colonies of white crayfish and pearl mussels, and conservation projects are being undertaken to improve their habitats.
Otters might be spotted, and there are known to be several holts from Halton all the way up to Tebay, although the Crook o’Lune is a good place to watch for them. Badger, roe deer, fox and hare all roam the surrounding countryside as, of course, do rabbit and grey squirrel. Britain’s native red squirrel, however, is now rare, but remains precariously established at the top end of the river around Newbiggin.
A hare in Bretherdale (Walk 8)
Above all, birds can be seen wherever you go, and a field guide is an indispensable companion. Beside the river, heron, oystercatcher, sandmartin, goosandar and ducks are all common, but keep a look out as well for the kingfisher. Wander into the wooded tributary valleys to find warblers, flycatchers and woodpeckers, with dippers and wagtails flitting around the streams. Barn owls, too, roam the area, their main food being small mammals such as voles. The moors are important nesting sites for lapwing, curlew and golden plover, and upon the Bowland hills can be found the merlin, Britain’s smallest falcon, and the hen harrier, which the AONB has adopted for its logo. Many species come to the estuary to feed and, dependent upon the tide, you may well see flocks of waders, geese and swans.
Even at the edge of Lancaster, there is plenty of bird life to be seen by the river (Walk 35)
Grazing and agriculture have displaced the flower meadows that would once have spilled across the valley, but hedgerows and an abundance of small natural woodlands in the many deep side-branches mean that the area remains rich in wildflowers. Oak, ash, hazel, alder, holly and hawthorn provide cover for a wide range of flowers, with carpets of snowdrops, ransoms and bluebells as well as many other species being commonly found. Flowers are at their best in spring and early summer, but late summer is the time to appreciate the full glory of the moors, when the heather is in flower. Autumn brings the rich colour of turning leaves, but is also the time when the mysterious world of fungi comes into its own.
Transport
All sections of the Lune Valley are readily accessible from the M6 motorway, and Lancaster, Oxenholme (on the eastern fringe of Kendal) and Penrith stations are all on the West Coast line.
Local bus services visit some villages, but rural timetables are not always geared to the needs of walkers, and it is as well to check details in advance (www.traveline.org.uk).
If you travel by car, be aware that the lanes of the area are generally narrow, winding and occasionally steep and were never intended for today’s traffic. Extra care is needed as slow-moving farm vehicles, animals, pedestrians, horse riders and cyclists may lie around any corner. Wherever possible use official car parks, but if none is available, park considerately and ensure that you do not obstruct field or farm access or cause damage to the verge.
Farmers have their ways and means of herding sheep – you never know what might be round the next bend in the road (Walk 19)
Accommodation and facilities
Hotels, bed and breakfast and self-catering cottages are widely available at the main centres of Lancaster, Kirkby Lonsdale and Sedbergh, as well as in many of the villages. There is also a good selection of camping and caravan sites. (For websites giving accommodation details, see Appendix C.) The many local pubs, restaurants and cafés offer appetising menus, often based around locally produced foods and specialities. There are banks and post offices at the main centres, but several hamlets have regrettably lost all their services, including the local shop and pub. As elsewhere in the country, mobile phone coverage is biased towards centres of population, and in the hill areas reception can be patchy.
The tiny hamlet of Aughton (Walk 32)
Navigation and maps
The mapping extracts (1:50,000) accompanying each walk in this guide indicate the outline of the route and are not intended as a substitute for taking the map itself with you. The context of the wider area given by the larger scale (1:25,000) OS Explorer maps will not only add to the enjoyment of identifying neighbouring hills and other features, but is vital should you wander off course or need to find an alternative way back. Reference to the route description and appropriate map will avoid most navigational difficulties, but on upland routes competence in the use of a compass is necessary, particularly if there is a risk of poor visibility.
A view across the foot of Lunesdale from a splendid stone stile (Walk 5)
A GPS receiver (and spare batteries) can be a useful additional aid, but you should know how to use it and be conscious of its shortcomings. Be aware of your own limitations and do not start out if anticipated conditions are likely to be beyond your experience. If the weather unexpectedly deteriorates, always be prepared to turn back.
The area is covered by Ordnance Survey maps at both 1:25,000 and 1:50,000 scales, but the larger scale shows a greater detail that is often invaluable.
The Ordnance Survey Explorer maps for the walks in this guide are listed below.
OL19 (Howgill Fells and Upper Eden Valley)
OL7 (The English Lakes, South Eastern area)
OL2 (Yorkshire Dales, Southern and Western areas)
OL41 (Forest of Bowland and Ribblesdale)
296 (Lancaster, Morecambe and Fleetwood)
Planning your walk
Safety
None of the routes described in this book is technically demanding, but be aware that after very heavy rain rivers and streams can flood, rendering paths beside them temporarily impassable. A handful of walks venture onto upland moors, where paths may be vague or non-existent and conditions can be very different from those experienced in the valley. The weather can rapidly deteriorate at any time of year and inexperienced walkers should be aware that it is easy to become disorientated in mist.
Walking with a companion can add to the enjoyment of the day and provide an element of safety. If you venture out alone, it is
