Walking Vancouver. John Lee

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free movies are screened above the serving area. • Cross back over to the left side of Granville and continue south. You’re now at the seedier end of the street, among the sad array of grubby sex shops. You can expect to be discreetly offered soft drugs by wandering peddlers. But you haven’t entered a culture-free zone: cross Davie St. and then Drake St. On the southeast corner of Granville and Drake—marked by a magnificent neon saxophone—stands arguably the strip’s most historic performance venue. Built in the 1880s as a bunkhouse for Canadian Pacific Railway employees, the Yale Hotel was far enough from the center of town to survive Vancouver’s infamous 1886 fire. A neighborhood pub and live music venue ever since, it’s become one of Canada’s best blues bars, featuring live music nightly. Over the years, the Yale has hosted legendary performers like John Lee Hooker and Clarence “Gatemouth” Brown. It’s a great spot to kick back, grab a beer, and end your Granville Strip trawl.

      BACK STORY: ORPHEUM ECHOES

      Opened in 1927, the Orpheum Theatre was originally part of a chain of Chicago-based vaudeville houses—all called “Orpheum”—that welcomed famously diverse acts from around the world. With almost 3,000 seats, it was also one of the largest theatres in Canada at the time. The stars who have performed here over the years include Bob Hope, B.B. King, Harry Belafonte, Jay Leno, Shirley MacLaine, and Victor Borge—around the stage door on Seymour St., there’s a series of wall plaques recognizing international legends who have repeatedly hit the Orpheum stage. In the 1970s, the aging venue was about to be turned into a multiscreen cinema complex when public outcry convinced the city to step in and buy the theatre, transforming it into a new civic concert hall. After a complete restoration, the Orpheum reopened in 1977 and early visitors were reminded of what a gem they had in their midst. Inspired by the Spanish Baroque school, the building’s domed, multi-arched interior is a feast of sumptuous marble and plaster decoration. Now designated a National Historic Site, the Orpheum is the home of the Vancouver Symphony Orchestra and continues to host leading musical acts from around the world. It also hosts highly recommended backstage ghost and heritage walks during the summer months.

      POINTS OF INTEREST

      Lennox Pub 800 Granville St., 604-408-0881

      Commodore Ballroom 868 Granville St., 604-739-4550

      Orpheum Theatre 884 Granville St., 604-665-3050

      Plaza Club 881 Granville St., 604-646-0064

      Vogue Theatre 918 Granville St., 604-688-1975

      Granville Room 957 Granville St., 604-633-0056

      Templeton 1087 Granville St., 604-685-4612

      Yale Hotel 1300 Granville St., 604-681-9253

      ROUTE SUMMARY

1. Start at the northeast corner of Granville and Robson Sts.
2. Staying on the left side of Granville, cross Robson.
3. Continue south on Granville, crossing over to the right side opposite the Orpheum Theatre.
4. Cross back to the left side of Granville at the next intersection.
5. Continue south on the left side of Granville.
6. Cross back the right side of Granville at the 900 block.
7. At the Helmcken St. intersection, re-cross to the left side of Granville.
8. Continue south on the left side of Granville, passing the intersections with Davie St. and Drake St.
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      Commodore Ballroom

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      4 YALETOWN: VANCOUVER’S BRICK-BUILT SOHO

      BOUNDARIES: BC Place Stadium, Richards St., Davie St., Pacific Blvd.

      DISTANCE: 1 mile/1½ kilometres

      DIFFICULTY: Easy

      PARKING: There’s a parking lot in the 600 block of Cambie St., a short walk from BC Place. There’s also metered street parking in the streets near the stadium.

      PUBLIC TRANSIT: SkyTrain’s Stadium station is a short walk from BC Place, while Canada Line trains stop at the Yaletown-Roundhouse station at Davie and Mainland Sts. Bus 15 stops on nearby Cambie St.

      Yaletown looks totally different from any other Vancouver neighborhood. Created almost entirely from red bricks—both the buildings and elevated sidewalks here are brick-faced—the area was filled with railway sheds and storage warehouses in the 1880s after the Canadian Pacific Railway relocated its operations from the pioneer settlement of Yale in BC’s rugged interior. Along with the name, the imported workers brought their hard-drinking ways with them and Yaletown soon became a no-go nook for anyone who preferred not to have a fist fight with their beer. When the trains left a few decades later, the area was quickly colonized by squatters and fell into rapid disrepair, only to be completely scrubbed up and reclaimed as part of the site for the giant Expo ’86 world exposition. After the event, the area, complete with its character-packed heritage status, became Vancouver’s version of SoHo. The old brick warehouses were reappointed and transformed into chichi shops, restaurants, and apartments and the elevated loading docks became its sidewalks. Today, Yaletown is a compact treat for strollers, with plenty of pit stops and colorful historic reminders. We’ll launch our walk on the fringes of the area, with a little sporting dalliance.

You’ll start your Yaletown-area weave at BC Place, the city’s biggest sporting venue. As well as being home of the CFL’s BC Lions, this is the venue of choice for the kind of music acts that like to pack in crowds of up to 60,000: Madonna and the Rolling Stones have strutted their stuff here in recent years. The stadium’s air-supported fabric roof—at 10 acres/4 hectares, it’s the largest of its type in the world—hit the headlines in 2006 when it deflated, sending icy water cascading into the interior. Since patched up, the venue hosts the opening and closing ceremonies for the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games, after which its dodgy lid will be replaced with a slick new retractable model.
Exit the stadium precinct west, crossing over Expo Blvd. Then cross over to the west side of Beatty St. Head south downhill on Beatty. About half way down on your right, you’ll come to Dix BBQ & Brewery. An ideal spot for a heaping lunch, this popular drinking hole is beloved of carnivores who drop by en masse to slaver over southern-style

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