Afoot and Afield: Portland/Vancouver. Douglas Lorain

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switchbacks climb past the edge of a clear-cut and take you up to a crossing of a narrow gravel road. The small seam of sunlight created by this road is just enough for June-blooming iris to thrive. Continuing past this junction, you make a series of gentle climbs and level walks through dense foliage that creates a sort of living tunnel. In places horse hooves have churned the tread into a muddy mess, so wear boots rather than tennis shoes.

      After topping a low rise, you turn east and cross a very isolated old road in the middle of an equally old clear-cut. Trailside thimbleberry and the enormous spreading fronds of bracken fern are racing to capture as much light as possible before the rapidly regrowing Douglas firs cover them with a shady canopy. Shortly after reentering an older forest, you cross a rarely used motorcycle track and then wander along the south side of low and rounded Klootchman Butte. Several openings in the forest provide room for flowers like vetch, iris, golden pea, dandelion, beargrass, and wild rose. There are also some partially obstructed views of Silver Star Mountain to the southeast and Larch Mountain to the south. The trail loses some elevation among the trees and crosses more partially forested slopes before making a long, looping contour into a densely forested valley on the northwest side of Silver Star Mountain.

      You should eventually come to a junction with a newly constructed route that is part of the planned Chinook Trail, which will one day be a loop route along both sides of the Columbia River Gorge. This section of it leaves the Tarbell Trail and goes to the left on its way to Silver Star Mountain. The signs here give distances to various destinations, but like the signs at the trailhead, these are not to be trusted. One sign claims that it is only 2 miles back to the Tarbell Picnic Area where you started. The actual distance is close to 3.5 miles.

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      Hidden Falls along Tarbell Trail

      In any case, the trail stays level for a short distance before it descends six quick switchbacks and makes a bridged crossing of North Fork Coyote Creek. After this, it contours around a forested ridge and switchbacks downhill to take you into the next creek canyon. This canyon holds South Fork Coyote Creek and 92-foot-high Hidden Falls, just above a log bridge.

      A wooden bench at the base of this lacy falls makes an ideal lunch spot and turnaround point. Beyond the falls, the trail makes a tough switchbacking climb onto a shoulder of Silver Star Mountain. Since you can reach this area more easily from Grouse Vista (Trip 10), be satisfied with the falls and return to your car the way you came.

      TRIP 8 Cold Creek Trail to Larch Mountain

Distance 12.8 miles, Out-and-back
Elevation Gain 2400 feet
Hiking Time 6 to 7 hours
Optional Map USGS Dole, Larch Mountain
Usually Open May to early November
Best Time Mid-May to June
Trail Use Dogs OK, mountain biking, horseback riding
Agency Yacolt State Forest
Difficulty Difficult

      HIGHLIGHTS Located a little to the southwest of Silver Star Mountain, Larch Mountain is lower in elevation, but it features many of the same attributes of its larger neighbor: open wildflower meadows, good views, and wildlife. There are two good trails to this high point, the more interesting of which is the long climb up the valley of scenic Cold Creek.

      The trails here are used mostly by mountain bikers and equestrians, but why should they have all the fun? Hikers are also welcome, and it’s high time we came to see what everybody else has kept secret. As always, be sure to give horses the right of way by stepping off the trail on the downhill side to let them pass. Motor vehicles are prohibited from most of the recommended trails, although you will cross several motorcycle tracks. Many riders seem to view the official trail restrictions as merely optional and routinely ignore the rules, so you can expect the quiet of your wilderness experience to be rudely broken by the noise of motorbikes, especially on weekends.

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      The recently rerouted trail parallels Road L 1000 for about 100 yards through a logged area, turns left, and then enters a dense second-growth Douglas-fir forest. For the next 0.7 mile the trail works its way slowly uphill, before turning left and switchbacking down to reach Cold Creek.

      The trail now goes upstream closely following the splashing creek. The forest floor is almost completely covered with bracken and sword fern, bleeding heart, oxalis, salmonberry, thimbleberry, and other common species in various shades of green. The “river music” of cascading water and the songs of birds, especially those of the ever-present American robin and winter wren, provide audio stimulation and enjoyment. The trail does lots of small ups and downs but gradually gains elevation. At about 1.9 miles you go straight across an unsigned junction where an unofficial mountain bike trail comes in from the left. Shortly thereafter, you cross Cold Creek on a plank bridge. A horse-hitching post and two wooden benches make this a good rest stop.

      Continue hiking amid increasing numbers of lovely, droopy-limbed western hemlocks. You briefly pull away from the creek and switchback up a heavily forested hillside. After this you make bridged crossings of two branches of Cold Creek about 0.4 mile apart. At the second crossing are a decent campsite and an unsigned trail heading downstream. You go straight on the main trail and switchback uphill, gradually leaving behind the sounds of “river music.”

      About 0.4 mile after the last creek crossing, you pass diagonally through a confusing and unsigned junction with a motorbike track and then switchback to the right on top of a wide, forested ridge. More climbing takes you up to and around a small rockslide and cliff where red paintbrush, purple penstemon, white beargrass, and yellow golden pea grow profusely.

      After climbing a little more in forest, you come to a lovely open slope of shale rock with lots of June-blooming lupine, lomatium, and beargrass. There are also fine views here, especially northeast to bulky Silver Star Mountain and north to Mounts Rainier and St. Helens. Several roads and clear-cuts mar the scene somewhat, but it is still very attractive. A lone picnic table just below the trail is signed as the FLINTSTONE PICNIC AREA. It provides Fred and Wilma, or any other visitors, a first-rate lunch spot, although this exposed location is often windy.

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