at any price.”
Ansel Adams, American photographer, 1902–1984
We owe a debt of gratitude to such volunteers. The trails would not be passable and this book would not be possible without them. Be sure to do your part to leave Big Sur’s natural spaces as pristine as you found them.
Conservation Organizations
The Big Sur wilderness hangs in fragile balance between humans and nature. Were it not for the foresight and efforts of grass-roots conservationists, much of the region’s untamed splendor might be lost to development. Please contact the following groups if you’d like to get involved:
Big Sur Land Trust
PO Box 221864
Carmel, CA 93922
(831) 625-5523; bigsurlandtrust.org
Sierra Club, Ventana Chapter
PO Box 5667
Carmel, CA 93921
(831) 624-8032; ventana.sierraclub.org
Ventana Wilderness Alliance
PO Box 506
Santa Cruz, CA 95061
(831) 423-3191; ventanawild.org
Ventana Wilderness Society
19045 Portola Dr., Suite F-1
Salinas, CA 93908
(831) 455-9514; ventanaws.org
PART ONE
State & Federal Lands of the Big Sur Coast
THIS SECTION COVERS the 90-mile stretch of coast from Carmel River State Beach south to San Simeon State Beach. All lands are accessible from Highway 1, which winds past golden hillsides, redwood-lined ravines, ancient oak forests, and sheer granite cliffs. Lying primarily west of the highway, the region comprises six state parks (Garrapata, Andrew Molera, Pfeiffer Big Sur, Julia Pfeiffer Burns, Limekiln, and San Simeon), seven beaches (Carmel River, Pfeiffer, San Simeon, Hearst Memorial, Piedras Blancas, Jade Cove, and Sand Dollar), one reserve (Point Lobos), and one historic park (Point Sur). These public spaces are relatively small, thus trails are short and for day use only.
Due to its proximity to the ocean, the region is fertile in both terrestrial and marine life. Northern and southern biogeographical regions converge here in a kind of suture zone that supports a wide range of vegetation. Fog shrouds the coast in summer, nurturing moisture-loving plants in deep ravines, while the sheer, exposed slopes host such drought-tolerant species as yuccas. Cold-water upwellings from deep marine canyons bring nutrient-rich waters to the surface, luring fish, seals, birds, whales, and sharks close to shore.
Recreational opportunities are equally diverse. Visitors can dive the waters off Point Lobos or Jade Cove, summit granite peaks, marvel at 5,000-pound male elephant seals, plunge into swimming holes along the Big Sur River, explore Hearst Castle, surf the rollers at Andrew Molera, learn about maritime history at Point Sur Lighthouse, or simply take a barefoot stroll on the beach. Whatever you choose, you’re bound to return.
CHAPTER seven
Carmel River State Beach & Point Lobos State Reserve
Carmel River State Beach
THIS PARK ACTUALLY comprises two beaches: Carmel River State Beach at the river mouth and San Jose Creek Beach (aka Monastery Beach) farther south. Together they form a mile-long crescent of coarse sand backed by bluffs that offer spectacular views. Visitors can go for a stroll, build a sandcastle, picnic, or watch wildlife on the sheltered inland side of the beach at Carmel River Lagoon.
While the turquoise Pacific may look inviting, neither beach is safe for swimming or wading. A deep underwater canyon just offshore contributes to hazardous surf conditions. Even on calm days, unpredictable “sleeper waves” have risen up to surprise waders, sometimes dragging them in. Year-round strong currents and water temperatures that linger in the mid-50s Fahrenheit make submersion a real danger, though experienced, properly trained surfers and scuba divers do brave these waters.
DIRECTIONS: From Carmel, drive south on Highway 1 and turn right at the Rio Road signal light. In a half mile you’ll pass Carmel Mission (Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo) on the left. One block past the mission, turn left on Santa Lucia Avenue. Drive 0.4 mile west on Santa Lucia to Carmelo Street and turn left. Within a half mile Carmelo dead-ends at the beach’s north parking lot.
VISITOR CENTER: Point Lobos State Reserve, off Highway 1, 2.2 miles south of the Rio Road intersection. Open daily 9 a.m.–7 p.m. in summer, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. in winter.
NEAREST CAMPGROUND: See Chapter 10: Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park for coastal campgrounds or Chapter 14: Bottchers Gap for inland options.
INFORMATION: Open 7 a.m.–10 p.m. Dogs must be on a leash.
WEBSITE: parks.ca.gov
PHONE: (831) 649-2836
Short spur trails lead to stunning views from rocky granite outcrops along Carmel River State Beach.
Trip 1
CARMEL RIVER STATE BEACH
LENGTH AND TYPE: 2-mile out-and-back
RATING: Easy
TRAIL CONDITION: Well maintained, poison oak, good for kids
HIGHLIGHTS: A wildlife haven amid the Carmel River lagoon and estuary, featuring a mile-long crescent of coarse white sand and views of the open ocean
TO REACH THE TRAILHEAD: This hike begins at Carmel River State Beach, where you’ll find a phone, restrooms, and water at the free parking lot.
TRIP SUMMARY: Carmel River State Beach actually comprises two beaches: Carmel River State Beach, at the river mouth, and Monastery Beach (aka San Jose Creek Beach), just south of the river. The trail saunters along these wave-washed beaches and atop the adjacent bluffs. The first 0.2 mile of the route crosses soft sands deposited by the Carmel River and pounded into fine powder by the often-heavy surf. The bluffs overlook granite pinnacles, wind-sculpted Monterey cypress, and a marsh and estuary that teem with life.
Trip Description
From the north end of Carmel River State Beach, the hike strikes out across sand and heads southwest toward the river mouth.
